Raritan Sea Era

I'm so excited, one of my new heads came today and the other is scheduled to arrive tomorrow.* We are switching from Jabsco raw water electric heads to Raritan Sea Era freshwater electric heads.*

Now... to figure out all the extra pieces and parts I need for this project...

I replaced one of my Jasco heads with a Sea Era...easy job, you won't be sorry.

Hard part was to change the exit hose arangement so it made better sense, ie straighter run, more downhill angle, etc.

Have fun.

Give me a shout via email if you need help.

Hi Peggy, what is your recommended method (to avoid contamination) of using the main water tank as the source of fresh water for the flush?
Thanks,
Steve W.

recommended method (to avoid contamination) of using the main water tank as the source of fresh water for the flush?

Plumbing supply "vacume breaker" .

The solenoid can nor be relied on.

FF, the vacuum break comes with the Sea Era package so it's easy to get right.

...and I thought I was the only one excited about a new head!! I'm very pleased with the quiet operation and efficient flushing/low water use.

http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/90/00/00/0/0000001590.pdf

I just finished installing me new Jabsco Quiet-flush head. It went a lot smoother than I anticipated. Heating the sanitation hose ends for 30-60 secs with a heat gun on high made it easy to seat the hoses.

Let us know how it goes!!


-- Edited by FlyWright on Sunday 12th of June 2011 11:06:10 AM

Oh my gosh I am ESTATIC!!!* The new aft*head is*in and the forward one will be a little more work next weekend.* We have to go back to West Marine for hose clamps--we had a TON on the boat so did not buy any, but we only had four tiny ones for the old poly whatever water tubing and we broke one, so back to the store.* This project was SUPER easy and not really that gross considering what you are dealing with.* Much better than replacing the holding tank, which was not really that bad ethier.* The flush is much queiter and the god awful stink is GONE!!!* Check out my blog for photos and details.* pineapple-girl.blogspot.com

*

Pineapple Girl wrote:
Oh my gosh I am ESTATIC!!!**

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* * * ** Jennifer:

******** Great job and I see you even have room for a reading light & magazine rack!

Hey Superdiver, judging from our experience that is ID and will work with your through hull.*

I really cannot even tell you what a difference this has made in the odor.**Peggy Hall*has lots of ideas to reduce the odor short of installing fresh water heads but*we decided to go all out.* They were less than $500 a piece and the sundry supplies we needed for both was maybe $100.* Money well spent, IMO.*

Looks great, Jennifer! Isn't it great when a plan comes together? Looks like you're getting closer to being ready for your delta trip. Loved reading your blog.

Hope to see you in the neighborhood!!

thanks Al!* We will look for you while we are in the Delta!* Have you eaten at the Riverboat since it opened for the season?* they said it was a new chef this year??

Yes, we ate there on the first night that Joe and Kim took over. They also run Happy Harbor down the road and have the best food in the delta at the best price. We've been eating there for years and have never been disappointed. Now they're here at our own marina, so we're thrilled. (There goes my diet.)

Here is their menu: http://mooresriverboat.com/uploads/menu1.pdf The $20 Ribeye/Lobster tail special used to be on Friday nights. It looks like they're changing it to Thurs, but their phone message still states Friday.

FlyWright wrote:
Yes, we ate there on the first night that Joe and Kim took over. They also run Happy Harbor down the road and have the best food in the delta at the best price. We've been eating there for years and have never been disappointed. Now they're here at our own marina, so we're thrilled. (There goes my diet.)

Here is their menu: http://mooresriverboat.com/uploads/menu1.pdf The $20 Ribeye/Lobster tail special used to be on Friday nights. It looks like they're changing it to Thurs, but their phone message still states Friday.

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*oh yum I cannot wait!!!*

Steve wrote:
Hi Peggy, what is your recommended method (to avoid contamination) of using the main water tank as the source of fresh water for the flush?
Thanks,
Steve W.

Click to expand...

*Replace the toilet with one that's designed to use pressurized fresh water.* "Converting" a sea water toilet to draw flush water from the potable water supply is an unacceptable risk IMO.


-- Edited by HeadMistress on Monday 13th of June 2011 11:06:09 PM

2bucks wrote:
FF, the vacuum break comes with the Sea Era package so it's easy to get right.

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Not only the vacuum breaker, but a good bit more that's needed to fully protect the potable water supply from contamination.

This illustrates why I consider "converting" sea water toilets to draw of the potable water supply to be a bad idea...too many people think it's only necessary to install the gadgets that make it work, ignoring additional parts that are needed for protection.

Fred apparently hasn't figured out yet that there's more than one type of solenoid valve too...the kind that goes in a vented loop in the intake line of a sea water electric toilet...and the kind that goes in the toilet intake line to control the flow of pressurized fresh water.* Neither one have anything to do with protecting the potable water supply, so I don't know what he could mean by "solenoid isn't reliable."

the top half of my toilet is above the water line and the bottom is below the water line. So I am assuming this would make it a "below" the water line toilet. Is that correct?


Yes...install the loop.

Also, the diagram shows a solinoid device at the top of the vented loop wired to the flush button... but I dont see what it is called in the manual? and no other specifications for it. What is it and what is it called?

It's called a solenoid valve. It's the electric version of an air valve in a vented loop. It's wired to the flush button...pushing the button closes it to allow the toilet to prime/bring in flush water, releasing the flush button lets it open again to break the siphon started by priming the toilet pump.** Jabsco seems to be the only source for it...part # is* 37068-2000.

You only need the solenoid valve if your toilet is NOT one that has a short hose to connect the pump ("lower unit") to the bowl...leaving you no choice but to put the vented loop in the intake line between the thru-hull and the pump. If you can install it between the pump and the bowl, a regular air valve will work.

superdiver wrote:
It DOES have the short hose from the base to the bowl. Last time we talked you suggested putting the vented loop in that short hose area, between the base and the bowl. Am I remembering correctly?

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*Yes.** When it's installed between the pump and the bowl, it can't interfere with the toilet's ability to prime. You will need an air valve in it, though because it'll squirt without one.* Do NOT put a hose on it instead! A hose would have to be so small (only 1/4") that salt and sea water minerals will clog it in a matter of days...turning the vented loop into an UNvented loop.*

Btw...intake vented loops are only needed with sea water toilets...not necessary on toilets that use pressurized flush water.

OK, so a vented loop goes between the base and the bowl where the short 3/4 inch hose which comes with the toilet goes. And NOT in the section between the intake thru hull and base of the toilet?

Correct.

What are you referring to when you say "Do NOT put a hose on it instead!

Do not put a vent hose on the nipple on top of the vented loop instead of an air valve. The air valve only allows air to be pulled INTO a line to break a siphon...doesn't allow anything out.* But when a vented loop is in a line through water is being pushed, water (or waste, if it's in a discharge line), water will squirt out the hole in the nipple if the air valve is missing.* A lot of people make the mistake of putting a hose on the nipple to cure the squirt instead of putting the air valve in it. That's a bad idea, because that tiny li'l hose gets clogged with salt and sea water minerals almost immediately, turning the vented loop into an UNvernted loop that no longer has any ability to break a siphon. Because it's cured the problem--squirting--it's become "out of sight, out of mind," so the nipple and hose are never cleaned...so whatever luck prevents a siphon from starting is the only thing protecting the boat. If you're gonna do that, save your money and don't bother to install the vented loop.

*






-- Edited by HeadMistress on Tuesday 14th of June 2011 12:58:56 PM


-- Edited by HeadMistress on Tuesday 14th of June 2011 01:08:30 PM

superdiver wrote:
if you put a vented loop between the base of the toilet and the bowl, you dont need one on the intake line befor it gets to the bowl do you?

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*If you mean, "before it gets to the PUMP," that's correct.* A vented loop between the thru-hull and the pump will pull in air that prevents the intake pump from priming.

Good question Boatk9. I have installed on my boat a SeaEra freshwater head complete from the factory and a "kit" for conversion to SeaEra freshwater head where the only old parts were the bowl and the seat. In the freshwater line is a solinoid and a vacuum break on each. SeaEra seems to think that is all that is needed, yet Peggie keeps saying that's not enough. I too would like to know what exactly is "a good bit more" that she refers to.

Can you help us here Peggie?

Ken

I am another who is interested in this as I installed a Sea Era fresh water per their instructions, then converted a Jabsco to fresh water the same way using a solenoid and vacuum break.

Thanks

Will the Sea Era conversion kit fit an existing JABSCO toilet?

ancora wrote:
Will the Sea Era conversion kit fit an existing JABSCO toilet?

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*I converted a Jabsco raw water electric flush. I did not buy*the Raritan kit. I bought a vacuum break and a 12 vdc solenoid from other sources and installed them per the Raritan instructions. They both operate the same way as far as I can tell.

Then on the Jabsco pump, I removed the raw water impeller from the housing and tapped the ports with a 1/8 NPT pipe tap, then*installed pipe plugs to seal that chamber. That makes the pump quiet.

*

All this talk about a quiet head. To me it's sort of satisfying, after an appropriate time on the throne with a good catalog for company, to hit the loud grinder button. Makes one feel as if one has accomplished something right off, first thing in the morning.

dwhatty wrote:
All this talk about a quiet head. To me it's sort of satisfying, after an appropriate time on the throne with a good catalog for company, to hit the loud grinder button. Makes one feel as if one has accomplished something right off, first thing in the morning.

Click to expand...

*I guess those with quiet crappers must resort to a rebel yell.

ancora wrote:
Will the Sea Era conversion kit fit an existing JABSCO toilet?

Click to expand...

*If it has the standard 4 bolt bowl it will fit. The conversion kit has everything you need except the bowl and seat.

*

Ken

Went to the Raritan web page and looked at the Sea Era conversion kit. After looking at all the parts to this unit, I am having second thoughts. Why so complicated?

Which part looks complicated?

The fresh water inlet has a solenoid to allow pressure fresh water in, a vacuum break to keep contamination out of your supply tanks. Those go in line from your domestic supply which then connects to the back of the bowl. A push button switch simultaneously opens the water solenoid, and turns on the macerator pump in the base, under the bowl. Viola! ground sewage going to the tank and no more clogs at the corners.

Or did my computer miss the sarcasm font in your message? It's happened before and may even happen again......

OK, you guys convinced me to convert!!

After 30 years, I found that keeping my old Raritan electric/manual hand pumped heads working and not leaking was nearly impossible. *After following this string for a while, I ordered a raw water Sea Era conversion kit last week for the forward head. WMJ Marine online had it for $403 including two day delivery. *

That was yesterdays project and I mean all of yesterday. *Like every boat project, it started first by removing the old (a little messy in this case). Then a margarita break, clean up the mess left from all the previous water leaks, (another margarita break). Setting in and fitting the Sea Era base for proper spacing. *Totally different bolt down pattern and spacing of course, which means you must fill the old holes. *

After another Margarita break, I felt confident enough that all was right, to mark and drill the new bolt holes and mount the old China bowl to the Sea Era base (This is the easiest part, 20 minutes tops!)

After a trip to the fruit stand for more stawberries (for the margaritas of course) I proceeded to the final installation, mounting the assembly, re-routing and trimming inlet and discharge hoses and electrical to fit and the final bolt down.

I kept the old seawater intake and the conversion went really very well. *Just keep in mind that the new base will sit differently than the old toilet assembly. *You will most likely have to relocate some of the hoses to fit properly. *If your old head was electric be sure and replace your old switch with the new switch provided, (it carries more amperage).

As long as you have some basic skills and don't mind standing on your head in small spaces, anyone can do this conversion. *Other than three barrel connectors, everything else needed was included in the kit. *It works great and I highly recommend the conversion to anyone waivering on the edge!!

p.s. *The margarita's really do help.*