Teak deck removal

Removing teak and adding fiberglass and new drains

Kennet Westby
44' Puget Trawler 1979
Seattle

Also removing teak trim on fly bridge and glossing

What was the problem with the original decks?

Tired of chasing leaky decks. When done will have all seams glassed and water tight.

How are your windows, I only ask as I also replaced my decks etc, only to find water wicking in from the windows down the inside of the deck house, which I initially thought was from my deck.

Still the decks were pretty shot anyway. Are you also painting the topsides as I noticed you seem to have taped off your deck rails as well.

We have rebedded the sliders before but I am biting the bullet and replacing doors, windows, hatches and port lights at same time. Removing teak hand rail and replacing with stainless. Then repaint Cabin. Hopefully water tight and less bright work for another 20 years of enjoyment.

Phew, now that's a project. How much are you doing yourself?

How is the decking held down? Had it been hard to get it up, and very destructive of the glass underneath?

Andy G said:

Phew, now that's a project. How much are you doing yourself?

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Subbing most of these projects this time, especially glass and paint. My goal is to be done before opening day and ready to go back north before June.

twistedtree said:

How is the decking held down? Had it been hard to get it up, and very destructive of the glass underneath?

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Teak screwed to deck into top fiberglass skin with a black sealer or mastic under boards. Started to pull bungs and screws and then use the Fien tool to cut/separate the mastic from the board to try and get up the teak in sections.

That was a fools errand and then went to the fast method. Using an angled flat chisel and flat bar just went through prying up boards. Then came back took out screws with drill and vise grip. Scraped deck of most mastic with a tool you would remove tile with sharpened on edge. Then all of it sanded to clean fiber.

We opened multiple sections where we thought we could have wet core but it was all dry and with teak ply sections separated with decent epoxy sections. We then sanded deck and cabin side to build up glass radius and create structural and water tight joint.

Next we built up the inside edge of deck out with some high build filler to create better run off to drains. Built bigger drains into deck and then added a layer of glass across all decks and faired.

At the same time decided to remove flybridge teak trim and glass the seam underneath that wood. I did that 15 years ago on inside when I removed and glassed flybridge and aft cabin decks. Really looking forward to finished state. I will post some more pictures as I go through next steps.

Nice job so far! Did the back deck of my boat during the refit. So happy not to have the teak deck to maintain. More pics!

Ted

O C Diver said:

Nice job so far! Did the back deck of my boat during the refit. So happy not to have the teak deck to maintain. More pics!

Ted

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Hi Ted,

Thanks. What did you do with your lazerette covers?. The teak and plywood panels are not going to cut it. Thinking about laying up a GRP single panel and improving drains on channels

If anyone with a similar boat in NW would like drains, pristine shape teak doors and front hatches let me know and I can coordinate you picking them up. Also have a custom aluminum folding mast with KVH sat platform and radar platform. Awlgrip bright white. Yours to pick up.

kwestby said:

Hi Ted,

Thanks. What did you do with your lazerette covers?. The teak and plywood panels are not going to cut it. Thinking about laying up a GRP single panel and improving drains on channels

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Some pics from the back deck project.

Removing the teak with a power planer after pulling screws.


The hatch down to the plywood and some glue.


The deck, the top and sides of the hatch got 2 layers of bi-axial cloth and polyester resin. The sides of the hatch were sanded down to offset the buildup of the cloth.


There is guttering around the hatch and 2 channels in opposite corners to carry the water to the deck drains.


Deck drain with perimeter guttering and the channel coming from the hatch guttering.


After the 2 layers of cloth, 5 or 6 layers of gel coat were rolled on to level the surface and hide the cloth pattern. Then it was sanded, fared and awlgripped. Final top coat is Kiwigrip for non-skid.


Ted

O C Diver said:

Some pics from the back deck project.



Removing the teak with a power planer after pulling screws.

View attachment 61764



The hatch down to the plywood and some glue.

View attachment 61765



The deck, the top and sides of the hatch got 2 layers of bi-axial cloth and polyester resin. The sides of the hatch were sanded down to offset the buildup of the cloth.

View attachment 61766



There is guttering around the hatch and 2 channels in opposite corners to carry the water to the deck drains.

View attachment 61767



Deck drain with perimeter guttering and the channel coming from the hatch guttering.

View attachment 61768



After the 2 layers of cloth, 5 or 6 layers of gel coat were rolled on to level the surface and hide the cloth pattern. Then it was sanded, fared and awlgripped. Final top coat is Kiwigrip for non-skid.

View attachment 61769



Ted

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Amazing job! That is one handsome and functional cockpit. I like the drain track instead of tubes in lazzarete

Fantastic job. Makes me somewhat depressed.

kwestby said:

Amazing job! That is one handsome and functional cockpit. I like the drain track instead of tubes in lazzarete

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Andy G said:

Fantastic job. Makes me somewhat depressed.

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Thanks! Absolute home run all the way around. Helps to have a great fiberglass guy!

Ted

Started removing windows today. Here is a few photos of work today's work

Wow, and I thought I was ambitious.

Ted

Mast and doors

Still available? I'm in the middle of my own refit/refurbish of a 40 year old defever.

JC53 said:

Still available? I'm in the middle of my own refit/refurbish of a 40 year old defever.

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Yes, In addition to other items I have the back teak deck hatches if you want those as well. Everything is at CSR yard in Ballard. Just let me know when and I can meet you there.

How does Saturday morning work for you. I work during the week and the trip North in traffic is painful. I can PM you my phone number. Thank you,

JC53 said:

How does Saturday morning work for you. I work during the week and the trip North in traffic is painful. I can PM you my phone number. Thank you,

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Sounds good

More project photo's. Spraying topcoat this week.

View attachment 1

Looking very nice. I am going to paint my bridge this weekend but am going to roll it. Wish I could spray it, but rolling will have to do... yours looks beautiful.

Comodave said:

Looking very nice. I am going to paint my bridge this weekend but am going to roll it. Wish I could spray it, but rolling will have to do... yours looks beautiful.

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Thanks. Good luck. The prep for spraying sucks so I envy your finished results this weekend. Show us some shiny pics when done.

Awesome job kwestby, not only functional but a real value add for that fine vessel, thanks for sharing!!

I have 2 teak topped, plywood with stainless trim lazarette hatch covers available for free if someone want to pick them up. In Ballard/Seattle. I think they may be standard on CHB's if there is even a standard.

Kennet Westby
1979 44' Puget Trawler
Seattle, WA

kwestby said:

I have 2 teak topped, plywood with stainless trim lazarette hatch covers available for free if someone want to pick them up. In Ballard/Seattle. I think they may be standard on CHB's if there is even a standard.

Kennet Westby
1979 44' Puget Trawler
Seattle, WA

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It would be helpful if you would post the measurements.
My C&L 44 has a single opening with a pair of interlocking teak hatches that lift out. The stainless trim covers the gap between the hatches and the surrounding deck. Roughly 24" x 24" each. If there is a standard, yours should be like mine.

When I was new to this boat, aver 20 yrs ago I had to replace one due to rot in the plywood. The other is still good.

koliver said:

It would be helpful if you would post the measurements.

My C&L 44 has a single opening with a pair of interlocking teak hatches that lift out. The stainless trim covers the gap between the hatches and the surrounding deck. Roughly 24" x 24" each. If there is a standard, yours should be like mine.



When I was new to this boat, aver 20 yrs ago I had to replace one due to rot in the plywood. The other is still good.

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They are the same as yours and both in good shape. Yours if you want them.