Mk 1 mainship 34 sliding window rebuild

Hi folks,
I'm going to attempt to rebuild the sliding main cabin windows over the winter. The channels where the glass slides is in bad shape and I assume there was some sort of flocked vinyl/plastic track used in the aluminum frames. Anyone know where the replacement track material can be sourced? Any advise is appreciated. Thanks

I found this post on the Yahoo Mainship site as this has been discussed there many times. Taylor was the OEM supplier to Mainship for the I, II and II types. Thanks to bkahuna999 for the post from Feb 2015.

There are probably other sources, the Yahoo site's archives go back 15 years and are searchable. Schlegal turned up lots of hits, this is the most current with contact information:




What you are looking for is called Schlegal, and you will need two sizes (Inside and outside window). I contacted Taylor Made and and here is the pricing. The shipping and handling seemed ridiculously high ($75), so I am planning on finding a work around when I get to this project. Good luck with your project and let me know how it comes out...... John

4965390 is .36 aft
4966110 is 1.75 a ft
There is also a 25.00 handle fee on orders plus the shipping I would estimate shipping at about 50.00.. 5-7 day lead time

HAVE A NICE DAY!!! J
Terra Meher
Customer Service
Taylor Made Systems
Taylor Made Group,LLC
93 South Blvd
Gloversville NY, 12078

Direct line 518-773-9336
Fax 518-773-2919

Thanks John very much! Will let you know anything that I find out.

I'm not John Buck, John was the original poster on the yahoo site. They've been talking Schlegal over there for 15 years.

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mainship/info

newbernbuck said:

Thanks John very much! .

Click to expand...

There is a search option on that site, a picture section with lots of how to and so forth. On a refit, the hardest, most tedious job was the fuzzy stuff replacement.

Tip... Get 2 hardwood 2x4's. Trim one at an angle that is just long enough to not fit upright in the window opening. The other about 6-9 in long and place it against the base of the first while in the window opening. Hammer the short one against the base, thereby raising the overhead, increasing the opening to facilitate lifting out the sliding glass easily. Easier with 2 people.

Heat and bend 1/4 to 3/8 90 on a small screwdriver, dental tools, drimmel, big wire brush and anything else to get the old out...ALL of it must be gone. Then slide in the new.....good luck...

C.R. Laurence
5.0 out of 5 stars 5 Reviews
High Density Window Pile .350 in Pile Height; .270 in Backing Width - 100 ft. Roll

On amazon. There is already a thread on this site somewhere.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000...2_2?colid=2593HNJQZ5N9C&coliid=I18KKKCB7NXQYJ

Sorry. First post didnt do the link.

Thanks everyone for the tips and advise!

schlegal update for sliding windows Mk1 34T

To update folks on replacing the weatherstripping on side windows on Mainship 34 Mk1. I'm about halfway through the project, cleaning out the old stuff is the worst part of the job. Various hook and pick tools help a lot.
What I did find was CR Laurence make replacement weatherstrip much cheaper than Taylor. Plus they offer it with a zipper notched backing that makes installation SO much easier! They make various width and pile height combinations.
Here's one link:

https://www.amazon.com/Zipper-Pile-...eywords=zipper+pile+weatherstrip+.270+backing

Thanks everyone

I used a role felt insulation and lined the bottom channels with it. Home Depot, 1/8" x 1" Cut to fit. $3. Windows glide nicely now

I saw that and considered it as a possibility but not sure how long it will hold up to saltwater enviroment. It's still on my list to do though.

newbernbuck said:

To update folks on replacing the weatherstripping on side windows on Mainship 34 Mk1. I'm about halfway through the project, cleaning out the old stuff is the worst part of the job. Various hook and pick tools help a lot.
What I did find was CR Laurence make replacement weatherstrip much cheaper than Taylor. Plus they offer it with a zipper notched backing that makes installation SO much easier! They make various width and pile height combinations.
Here's one link:

https://www.amazon.com/Zipper-Pile-...eywords=zipper+pile+weatherstrip+.270+backing

Thanks everyone

Click to expand...

NEWBERN, DId you remove windows? If so what please share your method.I'm having a hell of a time doing so. Thanks David

David
You have to jack up the window frame at the middle to have enough room to lift up and pull out the glass at the bottom outward.
I got a length of hardwood slightly longer than the inside of the aluminum frame and then carefully tapped it with a hammer to jack the frame up enough to remove the glass. I'm sure there are other ways to do it, but this worked for me, just be careful not to break the glass!

David Kimmel said:

NEWBERN, DId you remove windows? If so what please share your method.I'm having a hell of a time doing so. Thanks David

Click to expand...

See post number 5.
I said 2x4 hardwood but 2x2 would work just as well. Not a lot of angle in relation to the parallel top and bottom of the window frame. Need to jack the opening by raising the overhead 1/2" to perhaps 1-1 1/4". Then with the make shift jack in place, carefully lift up outside window up and rock bottom out of its slot. Best for 2 people, far more controlled with 4 hands.

2 of the nastiest jobs on a Mark 1-2 is 1-the renewal of the window frames. Time consuming and difficult. The Schlegel, over 35+ years marries the aluminum oxide, the corrosion of the aluminum. The Schlegel just UV rots.and it is a bit** to get out. The new will not slide in until all is out and the channels are clean.

Next nasty job is getting the monkey fur out of the v berth. The fur leaves behind part of itself and must be wire brushed out of the fiberglass before putting in new covering. I used a 1/8 to 3/16 black foam sheeting from the floor store and contact cement that to the fiberglass as an underlayment backing to insulate and smooth out the rough side of the glass inside. This stuff will not mildew or attract mold. Then glued Naugahyde to that. Turned out good.

The rest of the refit was not nearly as bad as those 2.