Just a thought I fixed an area of cored deck 1' X 2' on an old 17' CC with Get Rot. Drilled holes from the topside through the wood but stopped before drilling through the bottom. Left it open for a week. Kept a shop vac on the boat and several times a day sucked out what I could. Then used the Get Rot. After it curred I beveled the holes and filled with Marine Tex. It did take more Get Rot that I anticapated but its a strond deck now. The water entered via holes drilled for a seat. I drilled them out removed wood from between the layers of glass, filled with Marine Tex, and reapplied the harware.
Deck delamination
- Thread starter timjet
- Start date
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FF
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Could the deck problem come from overloading of the GRP bow roller setup?
IF so a good bit of structural glassing will be required.
How much does the unit flex on pulling a good load?
IF so a good bit of structural glassing will be required.
How much does the unit flex on pulling a good load?
OP
OP
timjet
Guru
- Joined
- Apr 9, 2009
- Messages
- 1,920
FF,
The de-lamination occurred because the builder did not seal the windlass holes. The deck slopes downward from there so areas fwd of the windlass are not affected. The bow roller is OK.
Greg,
I think the area has become so large, about 6 sq ft that, that some major surgery will be required. I'm going to have a pro look at it and get opinions.
-- Edited by timjet on Sunday 22nd of May 2011 07:30:23 AM
The de-lamination occurred because the builder did not seal the windlass holes. The deck slopes downward from there so areas fwd of the windlass are not affected. The bow roller is OK.
Greg,
I think the area has become so large, about 6 sq ft that, that some major surgery will be required. I'm going to have a pro look at it and get opinions.
-- Edited by timjet on Sunday 22nd of May 2011 07:30:23 AM
