Hendo's Randall 35 Cray Boat complete rebuild, Perth, Western Australia

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Marty,
Other than the offset dedicated rode cleat it's brilliant. I love the big "rode bin" and bulkhead. It obviously takes the side loads at the aft end of the "winch board" handily through the bulkhead you've got. Most often those side loads are left unaddressed.
How are you getting along w the manual windlass? Looks like about a 35lb Dan on the end. Also appears to be nesting nicely.
 
Marty,
Other than the offset dedicated rode cleat it's brilliant. I love the big "rode bin" and bulkhead. It obviously takes the side loads at the aft end of the "winch board" handily through the bulkhead you've got. Most often those side loads are left unaddressed.
How are you getting along w the manual windlass? Looks like about a 35lb Dan on the end. Also appears to be nesting nicely.
FF suggested the offset for the rode cleat . I like the manual it's a double action two speed Simpson Lawrence . It was pretty rough when I bought it . I had to put a couple new gears in and had a new clutch cone made . I've got about $200 in it .
The anchor is homemade . We put the bulkhead on 4 pads up off the deck . Good place to wash down the rode and let dry before storing away in the locker.
 
Pete, I think you should lose that long stainless shackle. Not only is it non-rated, it has a very long moment that could cause it to fail if you pull your anchor sideways. Personally, I have ditched all my swivels too as once the anchor releases the bottom the chain makes it unwind so a swivel is just another point of failure (swivels are almost as controversial as anchors...).

I do think that shackle is risky...
 
Greetings,
Re: post #3210. There ought to be a law! That bow shot is just too purdy to be legal.

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Happy Monday folks. This afternoon i made up the porthole tunnels for the Portside then cut the hull out and fitted them. Tomorrow once the epoxy glue has dried I'll sand the glue face and router the edges with a 15mm pencil round bit and then epoxy glass the tunnels to the hull with 450gsm fibreglass tape before continuing on with the fairing processes
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Matt, brother

I don't have photo... but, I've found over the years that low flying "BIG" well fastened cleat or cleats on bow portion work well with keeping lines/chains parallel to chocks. I know they may not be as Purdy as tall standing chrome or shiny ss Sampson post - however, the low flying cleats are less aggravating for shin bruises and for moving things around in the forward bow area. Good for stubbing toes though! :D



Thanks for the heads up bro. I have some big shiny cleats but also a Sampson post so will try and make it all work so it's not impractical. Glad I was warned about the result of having the Sampson post too close to the windlass. Don't fancy winding up my shiny ANCHORRIGHT ANCHOR by hand haha

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This afternoon I finished fitting the last of the fibreglass tubes I made a few months ago. I'm really happy that I was able to make the tubes and have recessed portholes. With the last two i fitted and glued in yesterday I ground the edges back to flush with the hull and then routered them with a 20mm bit so the glass tape would wrap around. I then gave the whole side a sand with the orbital. Then I gave the edges a hit with some jotafair to fill any low spots and then applied some epoxy resin then fibreglassed the join with 350mm wide 450gsm tape. Once that flashed off i applied a skim coat of jotafair to the whole area ready for longboarding in the next few days but ran out so couldn't finish off the bow area. The jotafair in the porthole recessed area was a little rough and uneven so I chucked some metho in a container and brushed it smooth. Lesson learnt from doing the other side. I didn't smooth it out and spent hrs trying to sand it smooth, doing it this way should save time imho. That's all for today. Cheers.

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Greetings,
Simply mind boggling! How do you have time to drink beer?



Lol. I work for 8-10hrs doing building renovation work then drive down to the boat and spend 3-4hrs there then drive home. I slip in a couple of beers in an afternoon when I'm at the boat.
 
The recessed portholes are quite elegant! Just beautiful. How many hours did it take you to build the fiberglass tubes?
 
Matt, the things you are doing such as the "eye brows" over the cabin side windows and the port lite tunnels, create elegant shadow lines. This in turn creates "architectural" interest. These kind of details set a design apart. Flat surfaces are totally uninteresting. Keep it up, Pal. You're in the home stretch.
 
Matt, the things you are doing such as the "eye brows" over the cabin side windows and the port lite tunnels, create elegant shadow lines. This in turn creates "architectural" interest. These kind of details set a design apart. Flat surfaces are totally uninteresting. Keep it up, Pal. You're in the home stretch.



Thanks for your support and comments mate. I really appreciate it :).

Not long till I colour her in 'Moonstruck' duco mate :)
 
Matt


Your final words in post 3222 " That's all for today. Cheers." are simply the biggest understatement I've ever heard. SOLSTICE definably has a soul, that you created!


She's been breathing for some time now. Can hardly wait to see her swim...


Keep on keepen on - Bro!!
 
Matt


Your final words in post 3222 " That's all for today. Cheers." are simply the biggest understatement I've ever heard. SOLSTICE definably has a soul, that you created!


She's been breathing for some time now. Can hardly wait to see her swim...


Keep on keepen on - Bro!!



Thanks brother. Can't wait either mate. I've set the deadline for December 1st 2018. That will be my 40th bday and she needs to be finished by then ;-)
 
Thanks brother. Can't wait either mate. I've set the deadline for December 1st 2018. That will be my 40th bday and she needs to be finished by then ;-)

Wow - Damn near two years. Talk about being a trooper :thumb: - i.e. YOU!!
 
Sometimes I get completely worn out just reading this thread and have to go take a nap. I don't know how you do it. This is a job for a crew of at least four with all modern techniques and tools. To see you do it by hand with no assistance is just awesome. It's going to be beautiful.
 
We all started this in 2012 mate lol

I know, I know, 2012... I recall your first post. Haven't missed one since, I think! lol Can we spell driven! In a good way!! :D :thumb:
 
Righto so this afternoon I started on the torture boards ...aka longboards. First I roughed up the jotafair then rubbed the area down with guide coat powder then sanded it back with the Flexicat then filled the low spots with 3M platinum plus and repeated the process about 10 times lol. Not many pics today. The process is quite slow unfortunately.

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Pete, I think you should lose that long stainless shackle. Not only is it non-rated, it has a very long moment that could cause it to fail if you pull your anchor sideways. Personally, I have ditched all my swivels too as once the anchor releases the bottom the chain makes it unwind so a swivel is just another point of failure (swivels are almost as controversial as anchors...).

I do think that shackle is risky...

No issue at all XBank. The set-up is specific to the way the Super Sarca slot works. The longish shackle is over-sized, and the extra length makes it work better as a locking mechanism so that unless the direction of pull is directly above the slot, (ie, intentional), it will not slide to the fluke end and pop the anchor out prematurely on a current or wind reversal, something Marin used to fret about a lot re the tripping slot. Rex, the manufacturer, has approved my set-up. The photo is now a bit out-dtated, but as I said, swivel is long gone, and that connecting shackle is now replaced with a nice shiny (rated) new one, also slightly over-sized. :)
 
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Matt - Your avatar and SOLSTICE keep looken more n' more alike! :D :thumb:
 
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