Marking Anchor Rode with Paint

Peter B said:

............... You don't have to go out in the rain...ever...

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I see statements such as this a lot on forums but I wonder - don't you have to go to the bow to release whatever you use to secure your anchor while underway? Don't you have to go to the bow to release whatever you use to take the load off the windlass while anchored?

I have a pretty common windlass (Lewmar) and the instructions are pretty specific not to rely on only the windlass when anchored or underway. The rode must be secured independently of the windlass.

I installed switches at the bow and since I'm already there, I almost always use the bow switches and remain at the bow, even if it's raining.

Jeffrey S said:

I've tried a variety of different paints and have standardized on Kylon's road marking paint..

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You mark your rode with road paint?

Nobody uses the markers they sell at West Marine and other marine vendors?


They were on my rode when I bought the boat and when I replaced the line (but not the chain), they installed new ones. I think they are 30 feet apart and it's written on the markers. They are color coded so that helps as well.

I used them for many years on the rope portion of my 26-footer's rode.

Now I have 250' chain followed by 150' rope. On the chain: red paint at 25', white paint at 50', blue paint at 75', red white and blue at 100', repeat. Easy to remember where I am as the chain pays out.

West

Though I still go out in the rain both setting and retrieving my anchor, the only thing the fastening pin was ever good for was to bend up the aft end of the bow fitting ( to which it attached the chain) when, in the first year, I had not undone the pin before engaging the windlass. In the next 21 years I have never fastened the chain.
I sometimes use a bridle at anchor but that is all.

WesK said:

Nobody uses the markers they sell at West Marine and other marine vendors?


They were on my rode when I bought the boat and when I replaced the line (but not the chain), they installed new ones. I think they are 30 feet apart and it's written on the markers. They are color coded so that helps as well.

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Yup. I mentioned them here on this thread's post #55. I replaced mine after about 5 years because I was reversing my rode and I found a new set at a nautical swap meet for $5. The old ones were still readable and functioned perfectly for my purposes.

koliver said:

West

Though I still go out in the rain both setting and retrieving my anchor, the only thing the fastening pin was ever good for was to bend up the aft end of the bow fitting ( to which it attached the chain) when, in the first year, I had not undone the pin before engaging the windlass. In the next 21 years I have never fastened the chain.
I sometimes use a bridle at anchor but that is all.

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I installed a cleat near the windlass and tied a 2' long 1/4' diameter line to the anchor. I just cleat the line when underway and cleat the rode when anchored.

Being from the electrical trade, I got used to painting my chain as per Resistor Color Code. Every 25 feet works for me. Get's tricky @ 75 ft as you can't get violet so I use Blue instead then + Black / White / + after 100 ft. FB

Ex Sailor said:

Being from the electrical trade, I got used to painting my chain as per Resistor Color Code. Every 25 feet works for me. Get's tricky @ 75 ft as you can't get violet so I use Blue instead then + Black / White / + after 100 ft. FB

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The next person who buys your boat is going to be very confused when they go to anchor it for the first time.

Ex Sailor said:

Being from the electrical trade, I got used to painting my chain as per Resistor Color Code. Every 25 feet works for me. Get's tricky @ 75 ft as you can't get violet so I use Blue instead then + Black / White / + after 100 ft. FB

Click to expand...

I used to hang my shirts in the closet like that when I was working. Black, brown, red, etc.

Originally Posted by Peter B
............... You don't have to go out in the rain...ever...

WesK said:

I see statements such as this a lot on forums but I wonder - don't you have to go to the bow to release whatever you use to secure your anchor while underway? Don't you have to go to the bow to release whatever you use to take the load off the windlass while anchored?

I have a pretty common windlass (Lewmar) and the instructions are pretty specific not to rely on only the windlass when anchored or underway. The rode must be secured independently of the windlass.

I installed switches at the bow and since I'm already there, I almost always use the bow switches and remain at the bow, even if it's raining.

Click to expand...

You took me a bit literally there Wes. I meant, if its p***ing down, attaching the retaining hook, if it's come up, or the anchor strop or bridle, if it's just gone down, can wait until a more convenient time. Attaching those things is not exactly a 'must do this instant' issue, is it..?

But what really gets me in all of this is this. My boat's cheap. Most of the stuff on it is quite cheap. My navigation instruments are years old, and comparatively cheap, because my pockets are not as deep as I'd like. I bet the vast majority of you have sophisticated electronics to do most other stuff, way better than what I have, and good on you for having it. I don't even have an autopilot. Yet I found it worth my while to install a quite cheap chain counter, while all of you go to extraordinary lengths with all this fricking chain marking stuff, when you could just put a chain counter on. Beats me, but I guess it's kinda like sayin'..."I have all this other sophisticated stuff that I don't really understand how it works, so by God...I'm gonna have something that dates back to caveman days, I do understand..." I guess that works for me in a sort of way, if that's what floats your boat..?

Oh yeah...and happy Christmas, all...