Water heaters

ranger42c said:

The slime comment is concerning; I haven't noticed anything like that, at least from normal use... What would cause it? Why associated with aluminum?

Can a mixing valve like that be added to most water heaters? Ours is an Atwood, nominally 11 gal aluminum alloy tank (10.5 actual), and we've never run out of available hot water... but the mixing valve idea sounds interesting.

-Chris

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I imagine the mucus formed too low temperature of the hot water tank. the material should not be affected unless the silver that kills bacteria. silver tank would certainly be a nice price ...

here to guidance on good heat a minimum of about 60 ° C. 55 ° C, begins to form a bacterin.

ranger42c said:

I'm doomed. Almost 70 years of food cooked in aluminum pots and pans... and now this pesky aluminum hot water tank... I'm doomed.

I forget what the word "doomed" means. Forgot my name, too. Hmmm...

I couldn't figure out how to find "Page 3" on the online version of the Daily Mail. (Many, especially males, will know Page 3 was always the first page to check out...

-Chris

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Aluminium pots and pans

aluminum pots, etc. has been banned here for a long time, because studies show a connection Altzhaimer disease.

sunchaser said:

Wes

Nobody disputes what you are saying. Count me as one though that can adjust the cold and hot water valves in the head, showers or sink to suit my needs. I especially like the separate water valves at the transom shower after taking a dip in the cold North Pacific.

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A guest might not know or someone could turn on cold water somewhere else while you're taking that hot shower in the cockpit.

My point was, with the tempering valve at the output of the water heater, you still have the same amount of available hot water. It doesn't reduce it. You are just mixing it automatically at the valve, not manually at the sink or shower.

Not installing a tempering valve because it is difficult and expensive (my case) is one thing but removing one is another. When the time comes to replace my water heater, it will have a tempering valve.

WesK said:

A guest might not know or someone could turn on cold water somewhere else while you're taking that hot shower in the cockpit.

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But but but... if your aunt had balls she'd be your uncle...

Replaced my 20 gallon Raritan water heater with the same unit during the refit. Old one was 13 years old and knew it would never be as easy to do again since the engine and generator were out of the boat. This summer I added a tempering valve ($80 +/-) to keep guests safe. With 170 degree engine heated water, I have enough hot water for 1 to 3 days depending on guests.

Ted

CPseudonym said:

But but but... if your aunt had balls she'd be your uncle...

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Ha.....that's good! I do have an aunt with sort of a deep voice...........

I also use engine heated water. the water in the tank gets very hot and when mixed sparingly with lots of cold provides enough hot water for two people for several days. Only then do I use the electric heater and only if I am not staying on the hook.

North Baltic sea said:

Aluminium pots and pans

aluminum pots, etc. has been banned here for a long time, because studies show a connection Altzhaimer disease.

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Al in one form or another makes up 8% of the earths crust. Hard if not impossible to avoid. Having worked and lived under EU rules and regulations, a good one I heard in Finland years ago from some very smart guys - "The EU has just determined that living is hazardous to our health. Henceforth, bad health behavior is not only condoned, it is recommended. Legislation to follow."

Ken E. said:

Ha.....that's good! I do have an aunt with sort of a deep voice...........

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Me too! Coincidence? I think not.

Mine used to be named Ron W, what's yours?

My old Kuma regulated the engine coolant flow into the heater. It was non adjustable.

I didn't like that as I was stuck with six gallons of water at a temp similar to a low setting of an electric thermostat.

I prefer an adjustable mixing valve that can be regulated that is on the hot fresh water output of the heater.

If responsible people are aboard it can be any temp...if I have grandkids or forgetful people onboard, it can be adjusted accordingly.

CPseudonym said:

Me too! Coincidence? I think not.

Mine used to be named Ron W, what's yours?

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Her name is Georgia but goes by George. She has just the slightest hint of a mustache - tries to hide it with makeup. My wife calls her voice a 'bourbon and water baritone'.

psneeld said:

My old Kuma regulated the engine coolant flow into the heater. It was non adjustable.

I didn't like that as I was stuck with six gallons of water at a temp similar to a low setting of an electric thermostat.

I prefer an adjustable mixing valve that can be regulated that is on the hot fresh water output of the heater.

If responsible people are aboard it can be any temp...if I have grandkids or forgetful people onboard, it can be adjusted accordingly.

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This is how mine was set up also. Here's a link that discussed the Temperature Compensating Valve (TCV). It limits the temp of the water in the tank to approx 140*F. As the tank approaches 140, the valve closes to restrict the coolant from heating the tank above 140. This is the valve I removed to allow the tank water to reach 180*F.

Wes brings up a good point. I do not have a temp mixing valve for the output side, but that would be a good feature to add. Does anyone have a link to a mixing valve that is effective and cost efficient?

Here is the Isotherm valve that is on my water heater.

Mixing Valve for Regular, Basic, and Slim Water Heaters larger image $50.00 Model: ITP-SFD00011AA Shipping Weight: 1lbs Manufactured by: Indel Marine Add to Cart: 1

Mixing Valve for Regular, Basic, and Slim Water Heaters [ITP-SFD00011AA] - $50.00 : Isotherm Parts, Marine Refrigeration Parts

Bay Pelican said:

Here is the Isotherm valve that is on my water heater.

Mixing Valve for Regular, Basic, and Slim Water Heaters larger image $50.00 Model: ITP-SFD00011AA Shipping Weight: 1lbs Manufactured by: Indel Marine Add to Cart: 1

Mixing Valve for Regular, Basic, and Slim Water Heaters [ITP-SFD00011AA] - $50.00 : Isotherm Parts, Marine Refrigeration Parts

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That really is a "no brainer" at that price. Stick it on the output of the tank. Now you have the benefit of really hot water and safety for the rookies.

I find in the shower a hand held "telephone" style nozzle with an on-off valve on it helps use less water. Get wet, water off, soap up and scrub, water on and rinse. Done! no finagling to find the right temperature after shutting the water off.

That's what I have, too. Makes 75 gals of water last 2 weeks for one with daily showers. But it's the water heater that I REALLY appreciate in the shower.

Although.....come to think of it, if I just had cold water, my showers would be even shorter than now. Maybe that 75 gal could last 2 weeks! Of course, I'd need to learn how to sponge bathe.

I think that'd be more fun with 2. Hmmmmm...we're having a long term drought here in California. Maybe this is a great idea for water conservation! Saves water and it's fun, too!

Sailors jump in the river and bathe, then they climb out and use fresh water just to rinse. That way, you'll get four weeks.

Don't be fooled, Al does too. Fully clothed I might add.









The yellow band on his arm is the DNR order from the Nut Hut Ray M and I foolishly helped him escape earlier that week.

CPseudonym said:

Don't be fooled, Al does too. Fully clothed I might add.

The yellow band on his arm is the DNR order from the Nut Hut Ray M and I foolishly helped him escape earlier that week.

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Somethings you live through; somethings you live down.

Al, isn't it nice to have friends with cameras.

Ted

O C Diver said:

Somethings you live through; somethings you live down.

Al, isn't it nice to have friends with cameras.

Ted

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Ain't that the truth! Notice they have more cameras than helping hands!

My shower wand puts out extra hot water into the mix after switching back on. I figured that the hot water was at higher pressure than the cold due to the one way valve at the tank inlet and pushed the cold back down the pipe..

CPseudonym said:

Don't be fooled, Al does too. Fully clothed I might add. ......................

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I did that once when stepping from the swim platform to a floating dock that was higher than I expected. I was carrying the puppy and threw her onto the dock (not on purpose, it just happened). She thought it was a game. I did not.

I caught myself on the dock and swim platform so I only got wet up to my waist but I had cuts and bruises and was sore for a week or so.

North Baltic sea said:

Aluminium pots and pans

aluminum pots, etc. has been banned here for a long time, because studies show a connection Altzhaimer disease.

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"Most researchers no longer regard aluminum as a risk factor for Alzheimer's disease. However, some researchers are still examining whether some people are at risk because their bodies have difficulties in handling foods containing the metals copper, iron, and aluminum." This is a quote from the Alzhiemer's Society of Canada (alzhiemers.ca)

bayview said:

My shower wand puts out extra hot water into the mix after switching back on. I figured that the hot water was at higher pressure than the cold due to the one way valve at the tank inlet and pushed the cold back down the pipe..

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Had that same problem. Added 2 check valves and an expansion tank to solve the problem when I put the tempering valve in. use to get hot water from both the hot and cold lines until the water pump cycled once. When the hot water heats up, it expands (like the coolant in the engine) and pushes hot water back into the pressure tank.


Ted

In my defense I was to busy laughing and trying not to spill my beer to put the camera down.

Any reviews of the Torrid brand water heater?

Rebel112r said:

Any reviews of the Torrid brand water heater?

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I have a 20 gallon Torrid, it's been in the boat 6 years. It has performed fine. No problems.

We had a Torrid 10 gallon horizontal water heater on our boat for nine years before it died. We killed it by not reading the manual. We lived on RO water and never replaced the anode. Their manual is very specific. I think they are a quality built, glass lined water heater and fairly priced.

O C Diver said:

Had that same problem. Added 2 check valves and an expansion tank to solve the problem when I put the tempering valve in. use to get hot water from both the hot and cold lines until the water pump cycled once. When the hot water heats up, it expands (like the coolant in the engine) and pushes hot water back into the pressure tank.


Ted

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A normal water system installation would have included a check valve to prevent that. Sometimes, the check valve is built into the water heater connector.

WesK said:

A normal water system installation would have included a check valve to prevent that. Sometimes, the check valve is built into the water heater connector.

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If there isn't either an air space in the top of the water heater or an expansion tank, the over temperature / pressure relief valve will burp off. The check valve without an expansion tank is often sited as a cause for the relief valve burping. Using the water heater as the expansion tank is a poor design.

Ted