Identify this dripless seal

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boatpoker

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Can anyone identify the manufacturer of this dripless seal ?
 

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Other than color, it sure looks like a PSS shaft seal. Maybe an early version or a Chinese knockoff?

Ted
 
Based on the color it looks like an old Lasdrop or Duramax..

Actually the more I look at it the more it looks like a Duramax.
 
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BP

Looks like a trouble spot, did you flag it?
 
Please tell me you don't need it sent to you in the Bahamas. :)
 
Thanks guys but i have been through all the websites of the companies mentioned and cannot find anything that looks like this ......

It should be circa 2000 - 2006
 

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Maybe this will help. I can't find one with the step in the "one piece plastic" part on any mfg's website.

Colour of bellows seems irrelevant as most mfg's offered different colours at different times.
 

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Thanks but it does not have the "step" in the plastic disc.
Maybe only certain sizes had the "step" in the plastic disc.
The cooling water hose clamp looks like it has a non-stainless adjusting screw.

You might want to update your blog instead of dealing with stuff like this.;)
 
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Here's a crazy thought, send the picture to a few drop less seal manufacturers and ask them.
 
I've never seen that seal. Sure did not leave much room between shaft coupling and seal!!

Is it leaking? Lasdrop is a face seal so should be pretty long lived and serviceable.

If you have to dig into it can you cut back the shaft tube a bit to give some more room?
 
Ski - I had a small leak and tightened up the bellows which seemed to cure it. I am now into preventative mode. I'd like to identify it so a.) I get mfg's instructions and limits on adjustment etc. and that I am prepared for rebuild if required. I'm not comfortable not knowing what I have. I'd actually prefer a conventional stuffing box as anyone can fix these in water. I can cut back the shaft tube 1/2" or so if I had to.

CapnBill - I have emailed the photo to every mfg. I could think of and as I've found is typical, not one of them has responded.
 
Pretty much anything beyond snugging clamps is going to require a haul and backing out the shaft.

I'd run it as long as it holds up. If it fails, replace it with a packing gland.

Might be a good idea to source a packing gland and keep it on the boat as a spare.

Look at the lengths. Packing gland would be of little use if it is jammed up close to the coupling.

Maybe the clearance issue is why they went with that seal???
 
Kmac & Ski - Clearance is very very tight may be able to cut the tube back a little but not much. Tightening a conventional box would be tough.

I'd love to have spares or replacement on hand before I actually need it.
 
Greetings,
Mr. bp. How did this slip by in your extensive rebuild? Is it not considered a maintenance item? Did the vessel originally come with a dripless seal?
 
Kmac & Ski - Clearance is very very tight may be able to cut the tube back a little but not much. Tightening a conventional box would be tough.

I'd love to have spares or replacement on hand before I actually need it.


Bellows on most of these units have a limited life span and yours may be pushing beyond what manufacturer would like to see. Don't worry only consequence of a failure is sinking and you will have time to abandon ship and later collect insurance and put a standard gland on the next boat.
 
Greetings,
Mr. bp. How did this slip by in your extensive rebuild? Is it not considered a maintenance item? Did the vessel originally come with a dripless seal?

The part is original. It caused no immediate problem. I currently have no problem with the part, just being proactive. I don't know how many total rebuilds you have done but this is my third and I guarantee that when you live onboard through those rebuilds, run a business, have an active family life and do all work by yourself (and my wife) there is no way to get everything done in two years. so you pick your battles.

PS. we are still rebuilding. Since leaving Toronto in August we have built a freezer, replace all nav lights with LED, Built two sets of shelving in the pilot house, upholstered the kids bunk/cabin, completed all the cork floors, installed several new outlets ( AC & DC) and a host of small other projects. She may be finished before I pass on :)
 
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PS. today we are rebuilding the Force10 stove in order to make it "pop-a part" so we can actually clean it. What a stupid design !

Oh yeah we also rebuilt the entire fuel system (in South Carolina I think) after a small leak revealed no pipe dope had been used so we replaced all 18 fittings with new and properly doped parts. Maybe if I was a better surveyor I would have dismantled all those fittings at survey to ensure they were doped :)
 
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PS. today we are rebuilding the Force10 stove in order to make it "pop-a part" so we can actually clean it. What a stupid design !

Oh yeah we also rebuilt the entire fuel system (in South Carolina I think) after a small leak revealed no pipe dope had been used so we replaced all 18 fittings with new and properly doped parts. Maybe if I was a better surveyor I would have dismantled all those fittings at survey to ensure they were doped :)

Things like that will make you a better surveyor. Lets just hope the dripless shaft seal doesn't sink it. I guess you might be able to find parts in the Bahamas but they will be 10 times as much as they are here. Good luck.:flowers:
 
Bellows on most of these units have a limited life span and yours may be pushing beyond what manufacturer would like to see. Don't worry only consequence of a failure is sinking and you will have time to abandon ship and later collect insurance and put a standard gland on the next boat.

I understand that but the bellows are fine .... pliable and fracture free. That's why I am trying to source parts before I need them.
 
If it's that hard to ID, I'd just buy a new one and **** can the old one.

You have to slide back the shaft anyway to work on the old one. And new drip less seals or old school stuffing boxes that size are not all that expensive.
 
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