Marking Anchor Rode with Paint

Peter B said:

Hang on...didn't your Halvorsen Gourmet 32' Cruiser have one..?

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Nope! She didn't have one! I saw her just the other day and her new owners are taking better care of the boat than I did & that's the gospel truth. Seahorse is now called "True Blue" and can be seen cruising San Diego bay frequently.

Yep, this anchor needs a nanny!

I don't know anyone that has a chain counter, so I never though about installing one.

Also, The anchor locker gets hammered with dirt and salt, so I figured an electronic device was prone to failure with time.


I just cleaned out mine yesterday, including removing and spraying down the electrical connections with super lube.

I like the box method described with the hole in each end to prevent over spray.

I've tried a variety of different paints and have standardized on Kylon's road marking paint. I found Rustoleum would flake off after a year or abrasion. The road marking paints are made for some contact (or so I convinced myself).

I'm also a one color guy for marking chain. It's too difficult to tell colors in low lighting. So 1 mark for 25', 2 for 50', 3 for 75', and 4 for 100'. Then it repeats. If you can't tell which "hundred" you're on, you're not paying enough attention. It hasn't ever been a problem and makes it all much easier to paint.

I often put some zinc primer under the Krylon. It usually lasts 2 years.

I anchor a lot. I have several links painted red at 50 feet, and at 100 feet.
I don't need any other markings.

Fletcher500 said:

I don't know anyone that has a chain counter, so I never though about installing one.
Also, The anchor locker gets hammered with dirt and salt, so I figured an electronic device was prone to failure with time.

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Fletch, the chain counter in most cases is well clear of salt water and muddy muck, as you can see here in the pic below, with the reed switches mounted on the winch housing opposite the top of the gypsy, and the magnet in a hole drilled through the gypsy. Winches which are vertically mounted, and only the gypsy above deck might be a bit trickier to fit, but they make counters for them. Presumably the reed switches are mounted on the non-rotating part of the chain guide somewhere where it won't be knocked off.

This is one...
Rode Counters : Rodster - Online Marine Equipment Store

and here's another...
Muir AA150 Chain Counter | Anchoring & Docking | Anchor Winch Accessories | Boating and RV

and these ones fit vertical winches for sure...as most, if not all of the Lewmars are vertical - one of these is even wireless, so not even wires to run and connect.
https://www.keoghsmarine.com.au/Anchor-Winch-Accessories/Anchor-Winch-Accessories-Chain-Rode-Counters/Anchor-Winch-Accessories-Chain-Rode-Counters-Lewmar-Chain-Counters

Same here. I last used some Valspar Outdoor, from Lowes. Still quite visible after 3 years, so I doubt the brand makes much difference. And, the R-W-B every 5 fathoms keeps it simple. I'll be touching it up this week.

I can buy a lot of paint for the cost of a chain counter!

Datenight said:

Rustoleum. Red, white and blue every 30 feet. Red 30, white 60, blue 90 repeat. First painted three years ago time for a touch up. I did not use primer on the galvinized chain and it seems to hold up well.

For the beating it takes going in and out of the locker I don't think it matters what brand paint you use.

Rob

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Old thread but I just painted my chain.

While I like the RWB idea, I wasn't sure about differentiating the colors in the dark. I ended up doing something similar to the suggestions above.

I bought three Rustoleum paint colors, standard gloss white, fluorescent yellow and fluorescent green.

I used about a 12 inch section of yellow for each 25'. So at 25', 1 yellow section, 2 sections of yellow at 50' and 3 at 75'. I used the white paint to paint about a 5-6" separation between each section at a 3 link bit of white at either end of the yellow. I wanted good contrast for flat light or low light. I use about a 18" section of the green at 100' (bordered by three links of white). Then at 125' I started putting a small band of green before the yellow sections. At 200' there are 2 green sections then 2 small green bands before the yellow sections at 223'. 25', and 275'

Again, using suggestion from you all I added a white section that will show up just before the anchor breaks free of the water when raising, and I used a long yellow sections before the anchor rode is completely played out at about 300'.

While my son and I were painting, we were less than impressed by the yellow. However, today when using the anchor for the first time I was amazed at how easy the yellow was to see. Using the white paint to separate and border it was a huge help. I only used 75' of rode today so don't know how the green turned out.

Thanks for all the great ideas and discussion. It helped me decide what and how I was going to do it. (yes, I used a box as was suggested to paint the chain at the dock)

Hopefully, the paint will last for a few years.

I'll be replacing mine, 200' of 5/16', this week. My plan is, 5' of white before the anchor shackle, a foot (maybe 2)of red and a red cable tie at 50', a foot of yellow at 75', a foot of white with white cable tie at 100', foot of yellow at 125', foot of blue and blue cable tie at 150', foot of yellow at 175', 5' of white before the end at 200' I'll have about 15' of nylon rope between the end of the chain and the ubolt in the anchor locker. I very seldom anchor in more than 15' of water.

I painted my chain at 60', 120' and 180', and the bitter end. My theory was that I never use less than 60', most often use 120', and seldom have to get to 180'. Works great here in Maine, and is simple.

Camden Jack said:

I painted my chain at 60', 120' and 180', and the bitter end. My theory was that I never use less than 60', most often use 120', and seldom have to get to 180'. Works great here in Maine, and is simple.

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Welcome to the forum Jack.

tadhana said:

I have tried a lot of things over the years. WE cruise full time and anchor frequently. I used paint, it fades, and wire ties they break off, the imtra things are ridiculously expensive, hard to see and they fall out. A few years ago someone suggested weaving a short length of yellow poly prpelyne rope through the chain. It is easy to see even in low light, goes through the windlass easy and is easy to move when you end for end the chain. First one is at 12 feet that means my anchor is 6 feet below the water. close to the bottom and as soon as i make sternway it gets on the bottom and the chain is laid out away from it. the next marker is at 75 feet, ~5:1 ratio in 10 feet of water which is common here on the bay. the next is two short lengths at 100 feet, that is 5:1 in 20 feet of water, then three short ones at 125, 5:1 in 25'. Then back to one long piece at 150, two short at 175, and the chain splice is at 200.

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Second this method I have used it with success in past. Now have counter so no longer use it, but it works and a lot simpler than laying out chain on dock for painting. This method can be done in water letting out rode using tape to measure and marking as rode goes out.

eyschulman said:

Second this method I have used it with success in past. Now have counter so no longer use it, but it works and a lot simpler than laying out chain on dock for painting. This method can be done in water letting out rode using tape to measure and marking as rode goes out.

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I like using the rode method. But I use colored rope in a red, white and blue configuration.

Red at 50', white at 100', blue at 150' and then repeating after that.

What size rope would you use for 5/16" chain?

Camden Jack said:

What size rope would you use for 5/16" chain?

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5/8" 3 strand twisted nylon meshes well with a gypsy suitable for 5/16" chain. There are youtube videos that show you how to splice the rope to chain.

Sorry, I meant to say what size line to weave into 5/16 chain as a marker

I went the paint method last week. Red, white, blue, 30 ft intervals. Rustoleum, 4 coats.

I know some people think painting it is silly, but I find value especially when anchoring in unfamiliar areas when watching other boats, sups, etc.

Thinking of going hi tech one day, and installing a chain counter.

As we know, Marin`s dog could pee the full spectrum of colors on demand, so marking the chain using a color code for the length of rode out was easy. Any pups available?

I'm with Pete on this. Easy to install a chain counter. After you have used it for a while you will just smile at the chain-painting folks....
CruzPro CH55 Chain Counter

Camden Jack said:

Sorry, I meant to say what size line to weave into 5/16 chain as a marker

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I use line of a diameter that just slips slightly snug between the links.

Whip the ends.

Insequent said:

I'm with Pete on this. Easy to install a chain counter. After you have used it for a while you will just smile at the chain-painting folks....
CruzPro CH55 Chain Counter

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The up side of my chain counter-I can with remote set anchor and retrieve from helm. Very helpful for single handing a larger boat. Down side when I do go forward especially to wash down while retrieving I lose the use of the counter so I still use some form of marker.

Insequent said:

I'm with Pete on this. Easy to install a chain counter. After you have used it for a while you will just smile at the chain-painting folks....
CruzPro CH55 Chain Counter

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Hi Brian. Is the display something that is only mounted on the dash (for remote windlass use) or does it mount through the deck like the windlass foot controls?

My display is mounted at the lower helm. Not sure that it would be robust enough and waterproof for deck mounting.

Like eyshulman I have some markers (some zip ties, chain inserts and remnants of old paint) to guide if I use the upper helm or on the foredeck windlass controls.

My method is a bit simpler and easier to remember. I just paint a white mark, about 1 foot long, on the chain every 25 feet. No need to remember a color code, but you do have to pay attention when lowering the chain enough to be able to count the white marks as they go by. If your attention span is not long enough to do that, you probably shouldn't be operating a boat (grin.)

And I got 2 good ideas... 1), paint a mark on the chain when the anchor is just below the waterline, to wash it off with a bit of forward motion. 2) using a box with slots at each end as a mini-spray hood for painting--cool!

Thanks one and all!
Oldersalt
GB 32 # 834 "Pacific Star"

"everything on your boat is broken. You just don't know it yet."

Insequent said:

My display is mounted at the lower helm. Not sure that it would be robust enough and waterproof for deck mounting.

Like eyshulman I have some markers (some zip ties, chain inserts and remnants of old paint) to guide if I use the upper helm or on the foredeck windlass controls.

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As the 'Pete' Brian referred to...and thanks for that support Brian...I also just paint in white the last 3-4 metres of the chain. So if retrieving from the flybridge, or while keeping an eye on other things, and not needing an exact measurement of what's still out because I know I'm close, I just know when the white appears over the roller, enough is just below the water surface to wash the anchor clean by gently moving off, or hosing it down as wife at the helm brings it up the last few metres slowly. I don't even have a pulpit or bow deck switch. Works well. Can't understand why anyone perseveres with bits of this and that now, as these counters are now so cheap, and easy to fit yourself. I'm a quack, not an electrician, yet easily managed it.

Capt.Bill11 said:

I use line of a diameter that just slips slightly snug between the links.

Whip the ends.

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I'm pretty sure I used 3/8 line woven into my 5/16 chain. Like Bill says, it needs to be snug, not tight. I used 3 ft pieces. I used the whipping in a can and it seems to work fine. I found that my white nylon line would sometimes get muddy and hard to see, so I painted it and the links. First I used a white Rustoleum, then with a fluorescent green that really pops day or night with a flashlight.

My "warning track" line is placed about 10 feet from the anchor, then I have another line at 60 ft. My old zip ties are still in place at 30 and 90 ft if I need them, then my splice at 120 followed by West Marine rode markers every 30 ft on the Brait line. My only complaint is that I'll find flakes of fluorescent green on my pulpit and foredeck. It's still relatively new, so maybe that will subside as it ages.

Mine is: 5/16' G4 a red band, and wire ties at 50', a yellow band at 75', white band and wire ties at 100', yellow band at 125', blue band and wire ties at 150 feet, yellow band at 175', my chain is 200' long, a white band with red mark near each end of the chain so I can tell when the anchor is about to get to the roller or the other end of the chain is about to come out of the locker. I seldom anchor in water over 15-20 feet deep.
The wire ties are easy to see but tend to break off after a while the paint even if most is gone shows where to put the replacement ones.

I recently regalvanized my chain, and I painted white marks on it every 30'. Also I bought a kit of printed PVC tags from fisheries that are intended to weave through 3 strand line. I folded these about 6" long tags double on themselves, through a chain link, and used PVC pipe glue the halves together. I have only dropped the anchor half dozen times since doing this, but so far it is working sweet. They seem to go right through the windlass. It is nice to have the depth measurements printed right on the tags so you don't have to remember some code. The tag kit was cheap.

I measured how much the chain runs in 10 seconds, I know, therefore, how much the chain runs per second. I look at the depth of the anchorage before the count of how many seconds to hold run the chain out that the correct amount. has been operating for over 20 years ok.

BruceK said:

As we know, Marin`s dog could pee the full spectrum of colors on demand, so marking the chain using a color code for the length of rode out was easy. Any pups available?

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Bruce,
I agree .. Marin's dog must be gett'in up there and maybe he only dribbles now. And I think he was more of a thinker not a jump to command dog.

Snapdragon III said:

I recently regalvanized my chain, and I painted white marks on it every 30'. Also I bought a kit of printed PVC tags from fisheries that are intended to weave through 3 strand line. I folded these about 6" long tags double on themselves, through a chain link, and used PVC pipe glue the halves together. I have only dropped the anchor half dozen times since doing this, but so far it is working sweet. They seem to go right through the windlass. It is nice to have the depth measurements printed right on the tags so you don't have to remember some code. The tag kit was cheap.

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Sounds interesting. Any photos?