Diagnosis (as in NY Times Mag)

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Roger Long

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 14, 2015
Messages
451
Location
Albany
Vessel Name
Gypsy Star
Vessel Make
Gulf Star 43
I’m a fan of the New York Times column “Diagnosis”. The author posts mysterious medical symptoms online and invites anyone, doctors or laypeople, to make the diagnosis. When the column comes out, the first people to send in the correct diagnosis get credited. We’re anchored near highly regarded Ross Marine on the Sono River just south of Charleston, SC where we will be docking tomorrow and a mechanic will come aboard. First person to post here the diagnosis he makes will get an imaginary tee shirt.

Back in Albany, a few weeks ago, I went to start our starboard Perkins 6.354 and it would barely turn over. It acted like an engine with a very weak battery except that there was plenty of power according to the volt meters and the way the other engine lit right off with the two starting batteries connected. When the starter was engaged, the alarm light would dim to near invisibility. I went up to pick the two mechanic’s brains. One said it sounded like hydrolock from a leaking injector. The other said to check all the electrical connections because low voltage due to resistance in one could cause the starter motor to draw excessive current. I went back to the boat, opened up the engine hatch so I could watch the flywheel while starting, and tried again. The engine started right up. Later that day, I discovered that the terminals for one of the starting batteries were loose. The PO just set them on and forgot to tighten them. That was clearly the problem because a number of other electrical gremlins disappeared and the both engines started fine thereafter. These engine, BTW, despite their age start, as quickly as brand new engines – until a couple days ago.

The port engine is still fine. The starboard, contra-rotating engine (which also burns a lot more oil for some reason), wouldn’t start two mornings ago.

I had the two stating batteries (which are also house service on this old boat until I make some changes) hooked together with the “both” switch. It was early so 12V cabin lights were on. The engine barely turned over, like a car with a nearly dead battery. The cabin lights dimmed nearly to invisible and the alarm light on the panel went out. I checked the battery voltage, both were 13 volts. The other engine started normally. I fired up the generator and switched on the battery charger. Engaging the starter produced the same result. I opened up the machinery hatch and watched. The engine made two full revolutions slowly before I decided to stop straining the electrical system. No sign of hesitation at a specific point that might indicated a cylinder with fuel semi-hydro locking it.

Because of my previous experience, I decided to try again about half an hour later. This time the engine started easily and normally.

I decided that, because a waiting period after the problem seemed to work, I would test start the engine first thing in the morning so it could sit for a while during breakfast for another try. This morning, I did that and it started right up normally. We had breakfast and I went to start it to get the anchor up about half an hour later and it was back to acting like the starter engagement was creating a direct short. I watched the voltage meter and it dropped to 4-5 volts while the engine tried to start, turning about 1 RPM. I decided to proceed to Georgetown under one engine and find a mechanic.

Once out in the river, I tried the engine again and it started right up. We therefore proceeded here. After I shut down, I tried restarting the engine and it acts normally. We’ll see what happens in the morning. There is a good chance, of course, that I won’t be able to duplicate the problem for the mechanic. However, we must and will get to the bottom of it. Who wants to take a stab at getting the cyper tee shirt?
 
I would start at the battery and again check all the connection for the starboard engine. Be sure to check at the batteries, the battery switches, and at the starter.
 
Occam's razor-- it's usually the simplest thing.
 
I'd have a digital volt-ohm meter out checking for voltage drop in cables and connections between the battery and the starter when it won't spin. That would give you something to work with...
No drop of voltage in the cables and decent battery voltage would indicate that the starter is suspect.
I used to get really annoyed when one of my employees "guessed" about a starting issue. It isn't all that difficult to diagnose.
There are lots of videos on YouTube on the subject if you need help.
Search for voltage drop test for starting issues.
Bruce
 
I'd have a digital volt-ohm meter out checking for voltage drop in cables and connections between the battery and the starter when it won't spin.

Not spinning is one thing. Can a voltage drop really cause a starter to suck all the current out of the whole DC system sufficiently to make the lights go out?
 
Usually things that erratic are electrical.

Other than a total guess...just a few simple tests will show whether it is a hydrrolocking issue front water or fuel...or electrical.

A mech at Ross helped me with a water hydrrolocking 5 years ago and Ross allowed me to help for less than a couple hundred bucks.
 
Not spinning is one thing. Can a voltage drop really cause a starter to suck all the current out of the whole DC system sufficiently to make the lights go out?

It depends. My point is only that you shouldn't simply guess. Once you have eliminated cables, connections and battery terminals you have to look hard at the starter or a condition like hydraulic lock that is making the starters job impossible.
Guessing leads to unnecessary expenses as often as not.
I've seen more than a few starters and alternators changed when the issue was a loose or dirty terminal...and it is so easy to avoid.
Bruce
 
Greetings,
Mr. RL. Mr. dh and the second mechanic make a valid point whereby all connections should be inspected for tightness AND corrosion. Personally, if you haven't already done so, I would remove the connections, clean them well (you can use a small wire brush or sandpaper, as appropriate), give them a coating of dielectric grease and make sure they are appropriately snug/tight. I would include both the high current (heavy battery/starter wire) and the low current (relatively) wires which would be the lighter gauge (smaller diameter wires) connected to the solenoid all the way to the starter switch. Might also be your starter switch.
 
I agree that it's likely electrical. My guess is either the starter brushes are worn / hanging or the contacts in the starter solenoid are shot. If you have checked all electrical connections, did you check the crimps and are the conductors exposed, possibly corroded.

That was all one guess, right?

Ted
 
Most likely electrical.

Take a good look at the grounds.

And measure the voltage at the batteries when you are having difficulty starting. You need to see how low the voltage drops under load. Not just what the voltage is as they sit there with no load on them.
 
Don't forget to check the ground connection on the engine.
 
Greetings,
Mr. HN. I saw what you did there. Tried to sneak in under the radar huh? Too late! Welcome aboard and good suggestion.
 
A properly executed voltage drop test on both the positive and negative sides has been very helpful in diagnosing electrical problems in my career as a mechanic. That's where I would start.
 
Well since all the logical advice has been offered I can only tell you what my old salty dad would have said. "It has an intermittent in it, sometimes it works and sometimes it don't". LOL!
 
Bum starter.

On our ex-trawler, we had a single Perkins 6.354 and it came with a spare starter. With twin 6.354's, the argument for a spare starter is even more compelling.

Don't disagree with the others on checking out all the wiring and connections but I would also check the stop/start solenoid (might be just a stop solenoid). Could it have been stuck in the kill engine position?

Oh, and don't forget to check your bank account. Be sure the checkbook is loaded. Hey, I can't be wrong with that diagnosis!
 
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It was early so 12V cabin lights were on. The engine barely turned over, like a car with a nearly dead battery. The cabin lights dimmed nearly to invisible and the alarm light on the panel went out. I checked the battery voltage, both were 13 volts. The other engine started normally. I fired up the generator and switched on the battery charger. Engaging the starter produced the same result.

The above suggests the batteries were at 13V in the morning with no source of external charge. Unlikely, and that doesn't tell us anything about the batteries real state or their ability to support a somewhat heavy load.

I'd want to know the age of the batteries and their condition via SG and possibly a load test, not voltage.
 
check battery negative side connector on engine. Sometimes corrosion avoid a good contact and it's same simptom.
 
I think I found it.

I checked all the cable connections a while ago. All the starter and battery system cables on this boat are in about the condition you would expect for a 1975 vintage trawler, one of many items on the list.

Everything worked fine this morning, of course, since we are about to dock at the yard and meet the mechanic, but I decided to check every connection again anyway. The two batteries have wingnut adapters. The wingnuts were tight. I then wiggled the red cable on the starboard battery and it was slightly loose. I gave the wingnut another hard turn and there was a pop and it went down another turn. I loosened it up and tried turning over the engine with throttle pulled all the way back. I didn't want to start it but just see if it turned over. It started and stuttered to life at the first cylinder going through the power stroke. This old engine really wants to run.

I shut down and removed the cable entirely. That perfectly reproduced the problem. I replaced the cable, tightened everything up again, and all seems fine.

We're going into the yard anyway because it's time for new zincs and Cutless check. We've also had a shaft knock over 1500 rpm (our normal cruising speed) ever since hitting something hard in the Erie Canal. Ross Marine here on the Sono River has the tool to remove the Cutlass bearings without pulling the shaft and are highly regarded according to Active Captain so it's time.

Now, who gets the Tee shirt?
 
Good going.

.Didn't see the mention of getting rid of the wingnuts.....they are usually problematic in the long run.
 
Didn't see the mention of getting rid of the wingnuts.....they are usually problematic in the long run.

That's was already on the list, the long list.

The engines will start on both batteries or on one but not the other so there are still some issues to track down but running the boat until I can get to it doesn't seem to be an issue.
 
A common weak spot of several models of Perkins, Cat and Perkins Sabres are the engine mounted fuse blocks. The fuses provide protection for the relays and wiring associated with neutral switch, intake heating, stop switch solenoid and other "safety" specific starting sequence devices if so equipped.

A non turnover engine (mine at times) that shows no battery weakness and good voltage at the starter may suffer from this little known issue. The remedy - pull the spade fuses and clean them as nearly invisible surface corrosion has set in. The problem is exacerbated by an older battery that may show up OK on meter but doesn't deliver enough juice to pass through the fuse and open/close the relay so the engine will start.

Trust me, I know, few "smart" mechanics will know of this issue. In fact some really smart ones deny it is possible until shown. The guy that helped me on this a few years ago was a back water jack of all trades mechanic out of Shearwater who barges fuel and supplies all around the central BC Coast while helping idiots like me..

Ya never know ---:facepalm:
 
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I've got the same Perkins twins. And a tendency toward the same reluctance of the starboard to start. And the same lack of resolution.

I'm in to the 5th week of recovery and rehab from the installation of a new shoulder, so nothing will happen on my part until spring.

My troubleshooting will go as has been offered above: Understand the wiring and battery switches; there's no excuse for a slow crank when you've got the other engine running fine. Make sure you've switched the batts correctly.

If it cranks at all then the starter solenoid itself works. If it cranks at all then the starter motor is OK - well, I just looked at the manual for trouble-shooting and it gives a bad starter motor as a cause for slow cranking but I then read the manual for the two kinds of starters and it said 'bad electrical connections'(!). Bad connections include all the high-amperage wiring and the motor brushes.

Just because there is adequate battery voltage at rest does not mean that the battery supplies adequate voltage under load; are the batteries OK? Obviously some are, since one of the engines starts.

Check all the high-amperage connections. Tight? Dirty? Corroded at the connection? Corroded inside the insulation? Grounding? Ground connection betw engine and batt? Connections within the batt itself? Your description suggests that the connections in question are those that are specific to that engine, that is, those that don't change when you operate the battery switches.

Good luck! Your solution/diagnosis may help me next spring!
 
That's was already on the list, the long list.

The engines will start on both batteries or on one but not the other so there are still some issues to track down but running the boat until I can get to it doesn't seem to be an issue.

At least changing out the wingnuts for a standard nut and lock washer are an easy, cheap, and quick fix.
 
Ive had similar strange behavior caused by starter problems. Possibly a dead spot on starter commutator or loose connection. Anticipate starter may fail compleely at an inconvient time. Easy enough to pull it and rebuild. I carry a spare.
 
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