Hard or Ablative?
- Thread starter Ransom
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If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
BruceK
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If you choose ablative, as I do, the running gear needs to be done in hard. At least that`s my experience, the ablative on the running gear was ineffective, too easily "ablated".
Pack Mule
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What should I use on my sail/rowing Trinka dinghy? It's fiberglass and has never had bottom painted .We are in fresh water . The dinghy will be hanging on davits most of the time . It might sit in the water at the most a month in the slip with William . I have already sanded the bottom and plan on an epoxy barrier coat but not sure what to put on top of that .
Pgitug
Guru
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Petit Trinidad which is a hard paint and lasts three years in Florida warm waters.
Fresh water varies considerably from lake to lake or river to river. I would talk to the yard there and other local boaters and get their recommendation.
I grew up on small boats on fresh water and very few people used anti-fouling paint. I didn't even know about it when young. The chemical content on our lake was horrible, far worse than where you are, and even getting the bottom cleaned 4 times a year required the use of acid. Finally, one day I read about bottom paint and had it put on my next boat. Oh, if I had only known sooner.
You will need to use an ablative, as hard paints cannot withstand prolonged exposure to air.
Gordon J
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Dont worry about bumps
I find ablative on my ocean Alexander 456 to be ideal. I also used it on my 43-foot sailboat. Now, when the bottom gets very fouled i take her or for a short spin above 10 knots usually a few minutes at 15 or so, and it cleans things up.
Concerning ICW bumps. Make sure top use active captain and follow All the warnings. Never had a problem, even in my sail boat. In particular, pay attention top the postings by Bob423. He is always spot on.
Taking off years of hard paint can be a chore and expensive. I opt for ablative because it is so quick. Little bottom prep required. The bottom only needs to be clean. I have used West Marine PCA gold ablative with good results. Typically count on two years, but I paint the boat in between if I need to haul for some reason. I can slap on a coat of paint in a day. Two coats on a day and a half.
Gordon
I find ablative on my ocean Alexander 456 to be ideal. I also used it on my 43-foot sailboat. Now, when the bottom gets very fouled i take her or for a short spin above 10 knots usually a few minutes at 15 or so, and it cleans things up.
Concerning ICW bumps. Make sure top use active captain and follow All the warnings. Never had a problem, even in my sail boat. In particular, pay attention top the postings by Bob423. He is always spot on.
Taking off years of hard paint can be a chore and expensive. I opt for ablative because it is so quick. Little bottom prep required. The bottom only needs to be clean. I have used West Marine PCA gold ablative with good results. Typically count on two years, but I paint the boat in between if I need to haul for some reason. I can slap on a coat of paint in a day. Two coats on a day and a half.
Gordon
Ken E.
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I'm with Brooksie on Seahawk ablative. I get 2 years from it, pressure wash, and apply the next iteration. I use Prop Speed on the underwater hardware and get at least 2 years with that as well. I think P S will go 3 years, at least in our cold water.
