Engine for my duck

Diesel Duck said:

As I recommended in a previous post... Call Greg Light at Cascade Engine Center. Nuff said!

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He retired earlier this year - Ask for Mike Miller over at Cascade.

Thanks for the info guys, that's a good start.

scott2640 said:

Thanks for the info guys, that's a good start.

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There was a local guy here that used to build steel trawlers.. I believe he build 8 boats, his hulls were really nice.. the rest of the boat was fitted out a bit sparse. Anyway he always installed a specific series of 6 cyl. CAT engines in all his builds, this engine was used in motor graders and could be had and rebuilt quite reasonably (according to him). If I recall correctly he said he also liked the ability to run the engine as a 4cyl. if one had to due to failure of 1 or 2 cylinders. Look into marinizing your own diesel, there is a UK company called Lansing marine that actually sells kits to do this for different motors.
HOLLYWOOD

HOLLYWOOD,
interesting comment about making a four out of a six. How would that be different w this Cat engine than any other? Do they have a non-traditional firing order? Re twin FL powered trawlers running extremely underloaded I've often thought taking the obvious parts out of the engines one could turn them into very heavy three cyl engines.
Sounds like the above re the Cat engines is for only temporary use. Still like to know how it's done.

I'd think just about any engine would run minus a cylinder or two unless there was some type of catastrophic damage. No engine will run minus a cylinder if you've thrown a rod, or pulled a head off a valve and you've got stuff banging around.
Any engine with a common injection pump would be a mess running minus cylinders.
I guess if were looking for something to do that specifically you'd look for an engine with compression releases and separate injection pumps.

TDunn said:

%load is a bit confusing. Is it calculated from the rated power of the engine at full throttle or is it calculated from the maximum power available at the rpms you are operating at? The two references will give quite different results. I prefer to calculated %load from the power available at the operating rpms read from the engine power curve. To do that to easiest method is to use fuel burn. The engine's fuel consumption curve will give you a good estimate of the relationship between fuel burn per hour and horsepower. If you then measure your fuel burn and divide it by the maximum fuel burn at the operating rpms you will get % power.

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Load factor is calculated based on rated max power.

There is a used deere 4045 in the seattle craigslist for 4K.

You might also look into Cummins Remanuactured (Recon) engines which come with a factory new engine warranty. I re-powered with 6bt 210hp Recons a few years and have been completely happy with them. Cummins has a smaller 4bt engine which might fit your needs in terms of horsepower.

Thanks Ken, I would love a Cummings but I haven't found any in the 75-125 HP range. Seems like they're mostly into making big boy engines.

Cummins makes a 4bt 150hp, you can also get the smoother 6b as a non turbo, about 120hp. May need to look on their commercial engine listings to find it.

The 6bt 210 has more power than you need, but run at low power settings the turbo does basically nothing so no real advantage to going with the non-turbo. Both the turbo and non turbo will do the same thing making 50hp. And the 210 is easy to find in "reman" dress, less $$$ than most anything out there.

Deere a good option too.

Repowering a "Duck"

We did a 40+ ft “DUCK” about 2 years ago.. Replaced a 4-71 with a commercially set up 6BT 210 but deturned it and also used a very heavy duty 3:1 gear.. Weight was not an issue and it work “super” in the 1000-1600 RPM range.. Super smooth and super quite..

Ski is right, but he is also a little wrong.. The turbo does a lot even at 40-100 HP as the engine in inherently quieter (lower compression means less “rattle” , and way quieter exhaust as the turbo absorbs about 20+% of the exhaust energy in the low RPM ranges and also makes the engine respond way better to changing ocean conditions in a displacement boat ---About a 50+% higher torque rise at low RPM’s....

No 4-cylinder engine made under 6 liters in displacement can even come close to what a 6BT can do (not just power , but everything else that makes for the right engine to own) especially if you like to use a boat in the 1000-1800 RPM range and want a simple and super easy & long term cheap engine to take care of.. Before you jump, learn this & understand everything about this term----------- “LONG TERM COST OF OWNERSHIP”.

If you'd like to takes directly with the owner, drop me a note and I'll give his conatct info..

Tony

Scott

Tony's above post has some great pictures of a "how to do it right" exhaust setup. A properly setup exhaust run seems the Achilles heel of many home builds. Getting advice from pros like Tony and Ski on choosing and setting up the mechanical systems is like money in the bank.

I have been following Eric and Tony's posts on Boatdiesel.com for many years. You won't find more knowledgeable engine guys than these two. I incorporated many of their comments, especially on exhaust design, when I re-powered from Detroit 871n's to 6bt Cummins a few years ago.

Wow! Tony Athens of TF. Pretty cool