Can I leave my teak natural?

You can leave the teak natural and years later decide to do something different.

If you varnish you are sentencing yourself to a life of varnish maintenance. Other coatings require maintenance too. Yes all those coatings can be removed to go back to natural but what a job!

My suggestion is leave the teak alone while you enjoy the boat and fix everything else. If it finally makes it to the top of your list to make it look yachty then go for it.

For sure on the top of my list since I like pretty things! LOL!

yachtbrokerguy said:

Often times in the subtropical sun of Florida, the oil on teak will oxidize below the surface leaving black spots. It looks great for a few months but then starts to blacken.

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What he said. ^

The birth of another varnish slave. []

bayview said:

My suggestion is leave the teak alone while you enjoy the boat and fix everything else. If it finally makes it to the top of your list to make it look yachty then go for it.

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That's what we did...four years later and I'm finally getting to it.

We bought an Albin early this year that had not had bright work maintained for some time. Additionally a PO put several coats of paint and a coat of non-skid sandy stuff on the teak decks. We originally thought about tearing the teak off and glassing the deck, but on further inspection, the deck looked pretty good.

After sanding all of the decks down to teak (since I still have a day job, the invaluable Admiral was the one sanding), we're in the process of cleaning, sealing, and repairing, with an eye toward getting through this year and recaulking everything in spring. We must be a couple of those sick puppies that don't mind the work, and the finished product is worth the effort. Teak is easier on bare feet too.

To each their own. I understand the advantages of no teak too. One of the folks at our marina asked us when we were going to enjoy our boat (we do take it out often - maybe more than most at the marina), and our reply was that we are enjoying the boat now. The reason for buying a trawler in the first place is to enjoy the journey - even if some of the journey involves sanding and Cetol.

Then there's hemp oil;

Hemp Shield - Best Wood Finish and Deck Stain Sealer Provider

Badger's Blog: Badger Wood Oil - Why Hemp?

Well, well, well, look what I found under the Pilot House seat when I was having a clear-out today!

Peter B said:

Yes, the Cetol Marine Clear (or teak tinted) are both satin finish, Bruce, and fine for the duckboard/swim-step/boarding platform - whatever you want to call it. It appears each country seems to have its own name for it.

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I`ve taken the line of least resistance and used the American term as the preponderance of readers are. Yes, it`s a duck board too,as the "evidence of duck visits" sometimes indicates.
If the Deks Olje #1 doesn`t work out, I`m tempted to use a "fence stain" finish I once used at home. The last bit of the application involves lying prone on the dock and stretching over the water to reach the (to be generic) "work surface" with the brush.

menzies said:

Well, well, well, look what I found under the Pilot House seat when I was having a clear-out today!

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That's it .... What many consider the bible of varnishing ect.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PB. Granted, Cetol does make a satin finish product BUT I think it would still be too slippery for a swim step. Mr. BK has the correct idea IMO-leave it natural which, is the best non skid surface.

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You might think so RTF but it's not too slippery. We use it all the time. I re-coat about every 3 years. The benefit being no need to sand, other than a light sand on the rails, then just a wipe down with a turps rag, and slap it on - the Cetol, that is...

Peter B said:

Yes, the Cetol Marine Clear (or teak tinted) are both satin finish, Bruce, and fine for the duckboard/swim-step/boarding platform - whatever you want to call it. It appears each country seems to have its own name for it.

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I've adopted "duckboard", thanks to my brothers and sisters in Australia. Sounds very descriptive! Thank you.

MurrayM said:

Then there's hemp oil;

Hemp Shield - Best Wood Finish and Deck Stain Sealer Provider

Badger's Blog: Badger Wood Oil - Why Hemp?

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Hemp Shield is now off the list because they say about their product,

"The reason we do not recommend a second coat of Hemp Shield for exterior is two-fold:

1) The formula for Hemp Shield contains some wax emulsions. While it is re-coatable when exposed to severe weather there may be a separation between coats.

2) The solids in a single coat are more than sufficient to protect the wood long term. A second coat is usually a waste of money."

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Still looking at hemp though, as it's new to me...(see signature below)

Just saw the same year boat as mine with all the brightwork painted. What an update and it looks beautiful. Something to think about in the future.

Donna said:

Just saw the same year boat as mine with all the brightwork painted. What an update and it looks beautiful. Something to think about in the future.

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Ms. D - Since teak is has natural oils in it, the maintenance will be no less than other finishes.

Islanddreamer said:

Ms. D - Since teak is has natural oils in it, the maintenance will be no less than other finishes.

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Incorrect, properly painted teak is far less maintenance than varnished or oiled teak.

dreamer,
That's what makes teak so difficult .. and different ..oil.
That oil causes big problems with adhesion. Where teak was traditionally used in the east Pacific they didn't attempt to paint it. They used oil and oil being the nature of teak worked well.

So getting rid of the oil takes away the very nature of teak and what makes it wonderful. But w the oil adhesion is a problem. I wonder what the situation on our boats would be if they had used White Oak instead of teak. How close to White Oak is teak w the oil removed? However the chemicals that are said to remove the oil probably only removes the oil right on the surface and soon (since 99% of the oil may be still there) the remaining oil may migrate to the surface and cause the usual adhesion problems. I think one should dance w teak and not fight it. If you bleach the oils off teak you may be better off just replacing it w Fir or Oak.

But re finnishing Teak probably the best way is to use oil. But who wants an oily sticky boat? Or some other finish that lets the wood breath. Sealing it up may be good but not ideal and on a boat water is everywhere and gets everywhere ... eventially.

Help me on the paint and teak. I've been looking at the possibility of painting my window frames for appearance sake on my Albin. Saw a few that were painted, and it updates the boat a little appearance-wise. Also read here on TF that you should never paint teak because of the inherent oil in the wood, so Capt. Bill - you bring an interesting question to me when you say "properly painted teak".

If there is a way to do this maximizing adhesion of paint that doesn't require stripping, Cetol, then paint over Cetol, help me out here. The Admiral is interested in white window frames. Paint type? Manufacturer? Process of doing this without having the paint flake or peel? Anyone with pictures that did this?

Nomad Willy said:

dreamer,
That's what makes teak so difficult .. and different ..oil.
That oil causes big problems with adhesion. Where teak was traditionally used in the east Pacific they didn't attempt to paint it. They used oil and oil being the nature of teak worked well.

So getting rid of the oil takes away the very nature of teak and what makes it wonderful. But w the oil adhesion is a problem. I wonder what the situation on our boats would be if they had used White Oak instead of teak. How close to White Oak is teak w the oil removed? However the chemicals that are said to remove the oil probably only removes the oil right on the surface and soon (since 99% of the oil may be still there) the remaining oil may migrate to the surface and cause the usual adhesion problems. I think one should dance w teak and not fight it. If you bleach the oils off teak you may be better off just replacing it w Fir or Oak.

But re finnishing Teak probably the best way is to use oil. But who wants an oily sticky boat? Or some other finish that lets the wood breath. Sealing it up may be good but not ideal and on a boat water is everywhere and gets everywhere ... eventially.

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Never bought teak oil, do it really get sticky?
I have used plain old Minwax oil based stains on teak,
Seems to last as long as other people's use of teak oil
I never seen Minwax get sticky.

Something I have been using is ZEP high traffic floor polish.
ZEP 128 oz. High-Traffic Floor Polish-ZUHTFF128 - The Home Depot
This puts a nice gloss shine on interior wood on top of wood stains. Takes a lot of coats to build layers like a varnish. Typically 4 coats will give a nice shine.

I had read about this on RV forums.

And I bought some Aerospace 303 UV protectant spray 32 oz off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CS...074&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=aerospace+303&psc=1

I plan to put that on top of the Acrylic floor polish, doing a test on using the ZEP outside on teak and mahogany wood.

Islanddreamer said:

Help me on the paint and teak. I've been looking at the possibility of painting my window frames for appearance sake on my Albin. Saw a few that were painted, and it updates the boat a little appearance-wise. Also read here on TF that you should never paint teak because of the inherent oil in the wood, so Capt. Bill - you bring an interesting question to me when you say "properly painted teak".

If there is a way to do this maximizing adhesion of paint that doesn't require stripping, Cetol, then paint over Cetol, help me out here. The Admiral is interested in white window frames. Paint type? Manufacturer? Process of doing this without having the paint flake or peel? Anyone with pictures that did this?

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Grand Banks boats (at least mine now and 3 my previous ones) have teak window frames, white painted.

MurrayM said:

That's another one on my short list. Penofin's Premium Red Label in 'transparent sable' looks really nice as well, for a somewhat darker look;

Ultra Premium Red Label Wood Stain Finish | Penofin

Curious though...how fast do accidentally dripped penetrating oils soak into gel coat? Do they wipe away with a wet rag without a leaving a mark if you get at them right away?

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Update...further reading has Penofin Red Label as a one coat system which takes it off the list.

Penofin recommends their Marine or Premium Blue products for docks and boats;

Docks & Boats Wood Stains | Penofin

Not a fan of Teak maintenance to tell the truth. I took my platform back to bare as it's in the water quite a bit and maintenance would be endless. I'll gradually replace my few bits and pieces of teak trim with some polymer. These guys will cut/contour to your spec.

https://www.plasteak.com/plasteak-recycled-plastic-products/boat-trim/order-custom-boat-trim-wood-replacement-of-any-shape-or-size-today

Islanddreamer said:

Help me on the paint and teak. I've been looking at the possibility of painting my window frames for appearance sake on my Albin. Saw a few that were painted, and it updates the boat a little appearance-wise. Also read here on TF that you should never paint teak because of the inherent oil in the wood, so Capt. Bill - you bring an interesting question to me when you say "properly painted teak".

If there is a way to do this maximizing adhesion of paint that doesn't require stripping, Cetol, then paint over Cetol, help me out here. The Admiral is interested in white window frames. Paint type? Manufacturer? Process of doing this without having the paint flake or peel? Anyone with pictures that did this?

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I've never painted over Cetol. Not saying you can't. Just never done it myself.

But I have painted over a varnished finish that was in good condition without a lifting issue.

In fact very, very rarely have I ever seen a major lifting issue with a varnished teak finish that was prepped and applied properly.

If I was going to paint your window frames I'd strip them down and dothe job right. It's to much work to risk a paint failure due to poor prep.

You could either use clear West System as a base or epoxy primer as your base. Just sand the wood smooth and wipe it down well with acetone or alcohol while changing your rags often before applying your base/primer.

When I used to do window frames that's how I'd do it. Then I'd apply a 2 part poly as a top coat. That combination would last for several years before needing a fresh coat of paint.

Here's a tip if you do paint your frames. Don't mask off the the glass. Just trim and scrape the primer off after you prime the frames and then do the same after you paint them.

Goes real fast, especially if you seal or wax the windows before you start the job. So it saves you a lot of time and money you'd spend on tape, taping and pulling tape. You also don't run the risk of the tape pulling off any of the finish from the frame when you go to remove the tape. Plus the paint edge is sealed better to the glass in my experience.

I did a lot of GB window frames, as well as other brands of boats, using those methods with out any lifting issues.

sdowney717 said:

And I bought some Aerospace 303 UV protectant spray 32 oz off Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/303-30313-CS...074&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=aerospace+303&psc=1

I plan to put that on top of the Acrylic floor polish, doing a test on using the ZEP outside on teak and mahogany wood.

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You can do what you want but I think you're about to make a mess of your exterior teak.

Capt Bill - thank you. We've stripped the rest of the teak down to bare wood, I guess a few window frames won't be a big deal.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Incorrect, properly painted teak is far less maintenance than varnished or oiled teak.

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I concur, and can verify that, because the PO had done that to most of the external teak, and the boat is 42 years old.

Pierre, 42 years is just incredible. I saw with lot of attention all the pics of Lotus you sent me through email, she looks like new. You must show here the pic of bottom hull painted, propellers that shine like gold.
Let's go sailing !
P.

I have started painting some of my trim with Pettit EZ-Poxy. Not one of my favorite jobs but it really looks nice and updates the boat. I have been looking at pics. I am going to keep the teak oiled on the bridge.

Capt.Bill11 said:

You can do what you want but I think you're about to make a mess of your exterior teak.

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HaHa, no mess. I put the Minwax stain on this weekend and looks good.
I have a mahogany transom and teak swim platform. I use 'old english chestnut' diluted with some gasoline.

Plan to topcoat with the ZEP, then spray on the UV blocker.
Doing this on interior wood work makes a very fine finish, for that I have been using the Minwax 'gunstock' color, which has more reddish tones than the chestnut color.

Minwax is a linseed oil stain with pigment. From my experience the ZEP does well on top of wood especially if it is stained. Done a lot of interior wood work and it is better and easier to use the an oil based polyurethane or varnish. I an mid 50's and have painted lots of wood with stains and finished for decades, so I am not inexperienced.

ZEP by itself outside is not going to last more than a year, but I was wondering if the Aerospace 303 would keep the sun from destroying the finish. Plan to wipe on the 303 every month in summer and less often in winter. ZEP inside lasts for many years with no problem, looks good, puts a shine on anything. ZEP is an acrylic clearcoat.

I have been using the high traffic, it also gives good gloss. On wood I use a chip paint brush, not a micro fiber towel. Wood is not as flat as a gel coat, so it needs a thicker coat.
High traffic has more solids than wetlook and is according to ZEP more durable finish, well meant for high traffic use on floors, suits me.

sdowney717 said:

HaHa, no mess. I put the Minwax stain on this weekend and looks good.
I have a mahogany transom and teak swim platform. I use 'old english chestnut' diluted with some gasoline.

Plan to topcoat with the ZEP, then spray on the UV blocker.
Doing this on interior wood work makes a very fine finish, for that I have been using the Minwax 'gunstock' color, which has more reddish tones than the chestnut color.

Minwax is a linseed oil stain with pigment. From my experience the ZEP does well on top of wood especially if it is stained. Done a lot of interior wood work and it is better and easier to use the an oil based polyurethane or varnish. I an mid 50's and have painted lots of wood with stains and finished for decades, so I am not inexperienced.

ZEP by itself outside is not going to last more than a year, but I was wondering if the Aerospace 303 would keep the sun from destroying the finish. Plan to wipe on the 303 every month in summer and less often in winter. ZEP inside lasts for many years with no problem, looks good, puts a shine on anything. ZEP is an acrylic clearcoat.

I have been using the high traffic, it also gives good gloss. On wood I use a chip paint brush, not a micro fiber towel. Wood is not as flat as a gel coat, so it needs a thicker coat.
High traffic has more solids than wetlook and is according to ZEP more durable finish, well meant for high traffic use on floors, suits me.

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Oh dear God!

You mean boat owners aren't the only ones falling for the "Make your boat/RV look new with floor wax" scam!

Just wait till it goes yellow, starts flaking and you have to remove it and then try to get a real wood finish to stick to the wood after contaminating the wood with acrylic floor wax and 303.

But then again who knows, maybe you are about to discover the miracle teak finish after all.