groco strainer lid frozen

Once you get it off and later put it back together, just hand tighten it till it's snug. The o-ring makes the seal. The lids get stuck because people feel the need to crank then town as tight as they can.

O C Diver said:

Yes, but it has a face seal in the top of the housing. Does shrinking the lid pull the lid flange tighter against the housing?

Ted

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I see what you're saying. I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it wouldn't.
I think we need a scientific test!

Just went through this on an A/C strainer. Take off the plastic bottom after you close the sea cock and drain the strainer through the little petcock at the bottom. Needed to remove the strainer entirely from the hoses. Kept me from breaking the plastic housing.

After I had it out of the boat, used channel locks to open the lid. Cleaned and replaced back in boat, but coated all threads liberally with Vaseline. Worked perfectly.

Since our area is plagued with sea grass, I needed to re-clean it a week later. Opened very easily the normal way.

Best penetrant I've ever found is called AeroKroil. Only available online, but there's nothing like it. Penetrates spaces as small as 2 microns. Much better than PB, etc.
Downside is you can only order it online.

I have no affiliation with the company...

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

Awhile ago, a best penetrant thread posted either a practical sailor or some mechanics forum rated ac50/50 mix of acetone and power sterling fluid.

Still haven't tried it but saved it to my priority memos.

HopCar said:

I see what you're saying. I don't know, but my gut feeling is that it wouldn't.
I think we need a scientific test!

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Cooling metal will shrink it in all dimensions. so it will pull away top, side and bottom a little bit.
It is easiest to heat since you can force a lot of heat compared to cooling, the temp difference is much greater for you to to do with heat.

psneeld said:

Awhile ago, a best penetrant thread posted either a practical sailor or some mechanics forum rated ac50/50 mix of acetone and power sterling fluid.

Still haven't tried it but saved it to my priority memos.

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I have read acetone 50/50 with red ATF works well.

Lobstah said:

Best penetrant I've ever found is called AeroKroil. Only available online, but there's nothing like it. Penetrates spaces as small as 2 microns. Much better than PB, etc.
Downside is you can only order it online.

I have no affiliation with the company...

https://www.amazon.com/Kano-Aerokroil-Penetrating-aerosol-AEROKROIL/dp/B000F09CEA

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This brochure just landed on my desk this morning . Our local bearing house has it in stock . My strainer lid is froze on my intake for my generator . I think I will pick some up .

I have had the same issue and have tried many recommendations. I have tried the heating the cap, WD-40 and tapping with a hammer. I'm thinking of setting a ziplock bag of ice on the cap and when that cools down, I have a few ounces of 0F antifreeze that I can use to chill the cp and go from there. Any other recommendations?

Thanks - JimL

All I can offer it to not crank it down when you reinstall it. They seal with an o-ring, and only need to be hand tight.

The filter bodies are not cheap but I do carry spare complete filter bodies.
I do grease the threads and also the first inch or so of the hose.

The threads were greased, and here's what I did in order - hopefully helping others:

Tried to heat the cap with hair dryer and liberal amounts of WD-40, tapping the lid with a hammer. Nothing after two days of trying. Then I got an idea from this thread about cooling the cap. I took my bottle of antifreeze/coolant and put it in the freezer overnight. I placed ice cubes on the cap - there is a detent that holds about an ounce of liquid. Once the ice cubes turn to slush, I removed the water and added the 0F coolant to the top of the cap. I gave the coolant about 5 minutes to cool the cap, tapped with the hammer, and used a pipe wrench to loosen the cap, and IT WORKED! The I had to get the minced jelly fish out. We are on the hook at Oxford, MD. We appreciate everyone suggestions! Thank you once again. JimL on M/V Lemon Drops.

twistedtree said:

All I can offer it to not crank it down when you reinstall it. They seal with an o-ring, and only need to be hand tight.

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It is one of those classics, “finger tight”, aka, ‘just enough to preventing leaking’.

I am in favor of lubricating the threads of the cap.

I’ve got an insurance survey due and a couple of bronze seacocks I haven’t exercised in a while. Scary tight, and in a real difficult area. Looks like a lot of penetrating oils and heat and cold over the next while. The older you get the faster time passes and you don’t realize just how long it’s been since a seacock has been open and never closed.

I use a mix of acetone and trans fluid. Of course you could try urinating on it for some heat......

grahamdouglass said:

I’ve got an insurance survey due and a couple of bronze seacocks I haven’t exercised in a while. Scary tight, and in a real difficult area. Looks like a lot of penetrating oils and heat and cold over the next while. The older you get the faster time passes and you don’t realize just how long it’s been since a seacock has been open and never closed.

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Do they have grease zerks on them or a place to install zerks? If so you could squirt some waterproof grease into the seacock. Look for a small hole in the seacock, could have a screw or cap on it.

On the right side in the photo is where you can put a zerk on this sea ock.

Always heat the part with female threads and/or chill the part with male threads.
I have a can of this but haven’t tried it yet.
https://www.autozone.com/greases-an...Ux0gmJeGe2o5tVKGycgaAuLnEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Comodave said:

On the right side in the photo is where you can put a zerk on this sea ock.

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Groco used to say not to do that. The grease pressure could damage the seals. Now I think they are shipping some seacocks with zerk fittings installed.

If you use the zerk fitting while the valve is closed, you just pump grease into the water passage. No grease gets on the outside of the ball where you want it.

I partially close the valve when I use the zerk fitting. That gets some grease on the ball but won’t let you over pressure the seals.

If the seacock is frozen and you can’t lube it then you will have to change it so why not try lubing it?

Comodave said:

If the seacock is frozen and you can’t lube it then you will have to change it so why not try lubing it?

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Good point. You could also remove the fitting and put in some penetrating oil in there.