In case anyone is curious,the ratcheting tool I use is an ideal #30-506.It is a frame only tool,and there are die sets that are purchased separately depending on your needs from everything to rg-6 cable ,to data terminations,and of course different size stakons.Great tool,but it is a pro model.There are cheaper versions available,but I don't not know how well they work.
shore power cord problems
- Thread starter seattleboatguy
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The Smart Plug system is arguably better than the twistlock, but the twistlock is the standard of the industry and has been for many years. Most folks are reluctant to spend money to replace something that works, is a standard and is available from several manufacturers with something that performs the same function, but is non-standard and available from only one manufacturer.
If you want to design a "better" product, it needs to be compatible with the standard product or it will have a hard time being accepted.
Codger2
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It aint necessarily so!
Many Years ago a patent was issued for a 3 legged stool which was the standard for many, many years. When threatened by a competing 3 leg stool, the original inventor went back to the drawing board and updated his patent with a clearly superior design. It took awhile to catch on but as we've come to learn, it's been quite successful! It may take awhile for the SmartPlug to gain the market share that the 38 year old design presently enjoys but it will happen!
Attachments
That was great!!
Bob Cofer
Guru
Although many use these terms incorrectly, because it seems to be all relitive to what you are used to, they are defined by IEEE for equipment desginations as"
LV - 600V or less
MV 601V-69,000V ( Changed a few years ago)
HV - 69,001V-230,000V
EHV 230,001V-800,000V
UHV >800,000
What I do, all day every day.
You stand corrected.
LV - 600V or less
MV 601V-69,000V ( Changed a few years ago)
HV - 69,001V-230,000V
EHV 230,001V-800,000V
UHV >800,000
What I do, all day every day.
You stand corrected.
again,equipment designations,like I said.Manufacturers of equipment,and the rules that govern their installations are two completely different beasts.I was not quoting the manufacturers,I was quoting the designations in the electrical installation industry.I am not doubting you know your industry intimately,as I do not.Please don't doubt mine.Different laws,tasks ,and standards.
the United States 2011 National Electrical Code (NEC) is the standard regulating most electrical installations. There are no definitions relating to high voltage. The NEC® covers voltages 600 volts and less and that over 600 volts. The National Electrical Manufacturer's Association (NEMA) defines high voltage as over 100kV to 230kV. British Standard BS 7671:2008 defines high voltage as any voltage difference between conductors that is higher than 1000 V AC or 1500 V ripple-free DC, or any voltage difference between a conductor and Earth that is higher than 600 V AC or 900 V ripple-free DC.
Electricians may only be licensed for particular voltage classes, in some jurisdictions.[1] For example, an electrical license for a specialized sub-trade such as installation of HVAC systems, fire alarm systems, closed circuit television systems may be authorized to install systems energized up to only 30 volts between conductors, and may not be permitted to work on mains-voltage circuits. The general public may consider household mains circuits (100–250 V AC), which carry the highest voltages they normally encounter, to be high voltage.
This is from Wikipedia.The iec or nema doesn't govern the installation,only the manufacturing,which you are quoting,no argument there.The nec governs one of my liscense requirements,and the nyc building dept governs my other.There are three levels within that.Low voltage installer(less than 50 volts to ground)master electricians license,600volt or less,and in order to work over 600v,you need a high tension certification.That certification is issued by osha. If you notice in the first line,the nec splits its rules at 600v.
Electricians may only be licensed for particular voltage classes, in some jurisdictions.[1] For example, an electrical license for a specialized sub-trade such as installation of HVAC systems, fire alarm systems, closed circuit television systems may be authorized to install systems energized up to only 30 volts between conductors, and may not be permitted to work on mains-voltage circuits. The general public may consider household mains circuits (100–250 V AC), which carry the highest voltages they normally encounter, to be high voltage.
This is from Wikipedia.The iec or nema doesn't govern the installation,only the manufacturing,which you are quoting,no argument there.The nec governs one of my liscense requirements,and the nyc building dept governs my other.There are three levels within that.Low voltage installer(less than 50 volts to ground)master electricians license,600volt or less,and in order to work over 600v,you need a high tension certification.That certification is issued by osha. If you notice in the first line,the nec splits its rules at 600v.
Cute, but I don't see any evidence of it happening. I don't see them being stocked at West Marine stores.
So if you spend a couple hundred dollars to "upgrade" your boat to the smart plug system and you are cruising and damage or lose your shore power cord, you can't borrow one and you can't buy one locally, you have to order one. You could carry a spare but unlike a standard cord, you can't connect two smart plug cords together to make a longer cord. You'll need to carry a standard cord just in case you need an extension.
Northern Spy
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ABYC controls the boat end of the shore power cable. NEC and NFPA control the dock side of the cable. NEMA would consider approving the smart plug design if they gave up patent rights.
Marinco has employees on both the NEC committees and the ABYC Electrical PTC.
And you guys wonder why many recreational marine parts both suck and are expensive.
That's why testing labs like ETL are stealing ULs business on many fronts.
How's that for better and safer?
seattleboatguy
Senior Member
What about the female side of the shore power connections? Can I just spray some Boeshield T-9 in there every couple months and hope for the best?
my solution, thank you hopcar
Reread post #132.
That's fine. If everyone starts buying and installing these and if Bayliner and Sea Ray include them as original equipment or even options, the company will do well and they will be available at most marine stores.
I'll probably wait a while and see.
I'll probably wait a while and see.
mysticdreamer
Member
had the same problem with my boat switched to a smart plug 5yrs ago..works perfect..contacts are just as clean as the day I installed it very happy with product
Poach
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I use Corrosion Block, which has superior properties to WD40 for this purpose. I use it on both ends of the cord and on the power post and boat connection. In 25 years I have never had a shore cord burn/discolor.
Why does it matter whether the product is available in marine stores when it has always been available at the best price at Defender? That's where I got mine. It's not like it's an impulse buy that you need to have this afternoon. I think it took 2 days for me to get mine.
dhays
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I think that Wes' point is that until the SmartPlug becomes ubiquitous, he isn't interested.
There is something to be said for following the herd and sticking with the industry standard, even if there are better options out there. Heck, I still type with a QWERTY keyboard even though the Dvorak keyboard has been around for years.
However in the case of the SmartPlug, I changed out my 30amp receptacle on my sailboat shortly after I bought it in 2005.
Capt.Bill11
Guru
Boeshield is not like WD-40.
It coats much better than WD-40. And inhibits corrosion longer as it's more viscous.
Because you could lose or damage your cord and need one this afternoon. I thought I explained that earlier.
I wouldn't want to spend a couple days and nights at a marina in south Florida in the summertime without air conditioning and some folks need shorepower to cook meals.
