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Old 09-04-2016, 08:35 PM   #51
Steve Bedford
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City: Burgess, VA
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 148
There are a few reasons for the "initial set" and I want to emphasize this is initial. I am not recommending setting our anchor at 2.5 :1 or 3:1.
1. If the anchor is not catching at the shorter scope, you know this and can adjust quicker than backing down to 7:1 then trying to set. If it does not set, at that scope, you "may have" some quick work to do in an anchorage with other boats with that much scope out.
2. I can not emphasize the slowness aspect enough and allowing the anchor to dig in. Too many poor sets or no sets occur when the operator simply drops the anchor, lays out a 7:1, and then backs down quickly. Take you time.
3. The action on an anchor over time is tug and relax, tug and relax, over and over again. During more severe conditions there is more tug than relaxation on the rode. However, every time there is stress on a set anchor the seabed is being compressed against the fluke. When the tug relaxes, because there is less pressure on the opposite side of the anchor fluke, the "hole" in the seabed where the anchor is placed can/may/will allow the fluke to dig deeper.
4. The first initial set at 2.5 or 3:1 is designed to allow the anchor to stay put where it was intiially dropped and not move backward before it catches with the boat under power.

As I said in my last response, many of our users use this technique with their Super MAX and others go right to 5:1 to set. What both have in common is that they usually take their time so the same initial set takes place as the boat naturally moves backward on its own until the rode is taunt or straighter.

Also as I said, if what one does works, great, do it.
Steve
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