Power For Windlass

To run 8/3 cord from windlass to engine room would be total hell. Is there anything wrong with installing a battery and charger in the rope locker for the windlass.

Not if you can tie it down and protect it well. But then you still have to run wires.

Ken

Since you have to run wires anyway, you might as well do it right and use the cable.


A rope locker is a bit damp for a battery charger and battery outgassing won't be good for the rope and chain. You won't be charging underway, only on shore power.


It can be done but the KISS principle says run the 12 volts from the engine room to the windlass and be done with it.

Putting the battery in the locker is fine as long as you have the room and it's secured in a good battery box. However, I would opt to install the charger in another compartment that isn't subject to the wet and moist conditions.

I agree...using remote batteries for high amp draw devices is common.

Do it right and it can be the way to go.
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If the run is reasonable and the draw can be handled by 2/0 cable or less, then cables might be easier in the long run...but every design is different so there is no "one" right or best way.

Yandina has a bulletin on how to do this: How to add a remote battery bank on a boat.


Davd

There are several companies that make sealed battery chargers to avoid corrosion issues. Coat all exposed connectors with CorrosionX. Here is my 24 volt thruster with seal batteries and sealed charger. Would work just as easily with a windlass. My charger runs happily off the modified sine wave inverter, so charging isn't dependent on shore power or generator.



Ted

The reason windasses are run off ER batteries is so they are charged/powered by an engine alternator. The engine(s) always run when a windlass is being use, and a windlass can draw a lot of current. Personally, I wouldn't want to fire up the generator every time as a safety measure or depend on whatever charge was left from the last shore hook-up.

It would not be a difficult thing to ensure that the windlass/bow thruster Chargers are run from the inverter. Another option would be to run a smaller set of wires from the engine room to the forward batteries to charge them from the DC side of the house. You could get by with a smaller set up charging wires, then would be needed for supplying power to thrusters/windlass.

Gordon

Gordon J said:

It would not be a difficult thing to ensure that the windlass/bow thruster Chargers are run from the inverter. Another option would be to run a smaller set of wires from the engine room to the forward batteries to charge them from the DC side of the house. You could get by with a smaller set up charging wires, then would be needed for supplying power to thrusters/windlass.

Gordon

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If you do this, you need to use a DC to DC charger. Otherwise, if you have a battery issue, the load of the windlass could go though the small charging wires and possibly starting a fire. Don't know if a fuse at the power source would work in this situation.

Ted

caltexflanc said:

The reason windasses are run off ER batteries is so they are charged/powered by an engine alternator. The engine(s) always run when a windlass is being use, and a windlass can draw a lot of current. Personally, I wouldn't want to fire up the generator every time as a safety measure or depend on whatever charge was left from the last shore hook-up.

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What he said. !!

Gordon J said:

It would not be a difficult thing to ensure that the windlass/bow thruster Chargers are run from the inverter. ...........

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Taking 12 volts DC from one battery and converting it to 120 volts AC with an inverter to operate a charger to convert it back to 12 volts DC to charge another battery would seem a bit inefficient.

WesK said:

Taking 12 volts DC from one battery and converting it to 120 volts AC with an inverter to operate a charger to convert it back to 12 volts DC to charge another battery would seem a bit inefficient.

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It is, but the amount of energy your average windlass consumes per anchor pull, is surprisingly small (less than your average boat refrigerator for an hour), so efficiency really isn't important here.

Ted

Maybe I should have said "stupid".


It's a simple problem, supply power to a windlass. Why look for the most complex solution?


Run the 8/3 to the engine room, install the appropriate fuse or circuit breaker and you're done. Go for a boat ride.

I can't believe for that size boat, the required windlass would only require 8/3.

My 2/0 is barely adequate for the 15 foot run and 1200 watt motor according to the installation manual.

Thus why people start thinking remote battery and ways to charge it, even if inefficient.

if you have 24v available ,the cable size decreases dramatically.

psneeld said:

I can't believe for that size boat, the required windlass would only require 8/3.

My 2/0 is barely adequate for the 15 foot run and 1200 watt motor according to the installation manual.

Thus why people start thinking remote battery and ways to charge it, even if inefficient.

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Have 4/0 running up to mine. But that was originally for the bow thruster also. Windlass seems pretty happy with 4/0.

Ted

O C Diver said:

There are several companies that make sealed battery chargers to avoid corrosion issues. Coat all exposed connectors with CorrosionX. Here is my 24 volt thruster with seal batteries and sealed charger. Would work just as easily with a windlass. My charger runs happily off the modified sine wave inverter, so charging isn't dependent on shore power or generator.

View attachment 55638

Ted

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Your surveyor and insurance company may take exception with a battery charger mounted over a battery (and a non-ignition protected one at that) and an AC outlet mounted over a battery and the lack of fuse protection.
All contrary to ABYC but your choice. I am familiar with the arguments about AGM's not gassing but I have several photos of burst AGM's in my files and if they burst they do release hydrogen right into that charger and AC outlet.

There is also the lack of a means to trap spilled electrolyte (it does spill if the case bursts), lack of positive terminal protection and lack of means of securement.

PS. my windlass/thruster run from two group 31's at the bow and are charged via #6AWG cables from an echo charger in my engine compartment. There are many ways to do it and all are a compromise.

boatpoker said:

Your surveyor and insurance company may take exception with a battery charger mounted over a battery (and a non-ignition protected one at that) and an AC outlet mounted over a battery and the lack of fuse protection.
All contrary to ABYC but your choice. I am familiar with the arguments about AGM's not gassing but I have several photos of burst AGM's in my files and if they burst they do release hydrogen right into that charger and AC outlet.

There is also the lack of a means to trap spilled electrolyte (it does spill if the case bursts), lack of positive terminal protection and lack of means of securement.

PS. my windlass/thruster run from two group 31's at the bow and are charged via #6AWG cables from an echo charger in my engine compartment. There are many ways to do it and all are a compromise.

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Battery charger is sealed. Manufacturer lists it as ignition protected [Ignition protected (US Coast Guard 33 CFR 183.410)].

Batteries are fused. Block without fuse (at time of picture) is in upper left corner. Both positive and negative leads off charger are all fused (yellow holders by battery terminal). Outlet is fused and GFI protected.

Batteries are secured to the fiberglass tray at the battery's base as per manufacturer's design. You can see a bolt head at the right. Battery is sealed and per manufacturers specification may be mounted in virtually any position including up side down. By their construction design, the manufacurer (OPTIMA) claims they are virtually spill proof.

Please explain what causes a sealed battery to burst. It is my under standing there is some risk at high charge rates. The charger is only 6 amp and is fuse protected not to exceed that.

If your really concerned about the hydrogen gas potential, then you wouldn't allow any battery to be near a bow thruster as the brushes spark whenever the motor runs.

I'll grant you no caps on the positive terminals.


Ted

Hydrogen is the lightest know element and will go straight up which is why there are restrictions on what electrical equipment can be mounted above a battery.

As to AGM's bursting, over charging from a faulty or cheap charger or improperly set charger or internal fault in the battery itself.

There is a reason ABYC holds AGM, GEL and conventional wet cells to the same standard as evidenced by the AGM shown in the photo below.

O C Diver said:

........... Both positive and negative leads off charger are all fused (yellow holders by battery terminal)...........

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Fuse the positive only.

WesK said:

Fuse the positive only.

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Came from the charger manufacturer that way. Since the batteries are in series, I assumed the manufacturer (who approves of this application) had a reason for fusing the negatives. So I didn't remove them.

Ted

I think Icom radios used to fuse both positive and negative...believe they said it was for reverse polarity protection.

boatpoker said:

Hydrogen is the lightest know element and will go straight up which is why there are restrictions on what electrical equipment can be mounted above a battery.

As to AGM's bursting, over charging from a faulty or cheap charger or improperly set charger or internal fault in the battery itself.

There is a reason ABYC holds AGM, GEL and conventional wet cells to the same standard as evidenced by the AGM shown in the photo below.

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While I could move the sealed ignition protected charger and outlet to meet the standard, the risk factor of a spark in my application is near absolute zero. If I took the risk factor of a spark to be significant, I would have to move the batteries as the motor brushes spark every time the bow thruster is used. Which do you think poses a greater risk?

Ted