Shower valve upgrade

Mango Mama has the typical shower valves. We would like to upgrade but I have no idea how to find a nice shower valve that will work with the existing plumbing. I'm not even sure how to remove the existing valves.

Any ideas?

First off you must be able to access the back of this shower wall.

You could swap out for a new* simular shower valve.* Looks like an RV type.

Or you could use any shower valve you like, as long as the trim covers the original cutout.* You can also install a shower outlet to attach the head or hose, separate from the valve.

Basically all plumbing fixtures can be adapted to work.* In my boat I had a delta single lever shower valve.** A new trim ring and handle and a couple of parts and it is now*looks and works like*new. One reason standard fixtures are a plus.

The quickest fix is to get a pair of new handles and shine up the base when you remove the handles.

Good Luck with your project!* JohnP

-- Edited by JohnP on Tuesday 22nd of March 2011 03:09:42 PM

Garry, if you can't get behind the shower wall for access, there is a problem.* You can cut around and go in from the control side of the valve as long as the new cover plate covers the hole.* This is really tricky to do as the valve assembly can be larger* than the hole.* To change it, you may have to cut an access at the rear.*

Since most boat water heaters are small and set at a high temperature, a temperature balanced valve is to be disired.* It can keep you from getting scalded.

Be sure to seal tightly around the cover plate.* Water getting behind it can cause allot of damage.

Garry, is there a locker behind the shower wall with the valve?* I if there is there could be a false back for the locker that can be removed by taking out a few screws.

The shower wall with the valve is against the hull so no easy access. I don't know how much space is back there but it can't be much. I get the idea now how to go about it. I'll have to crawl in there and see how difficult it will be.

Thanks

Is that a soap diish or? to the left of the valve? *It looks like there may be screws in the corners. *If so that could be your access. *If not, you might cut a hole next to the valve, and cover it with a deck plate or something else.

IF you create hot water with a coolant line from the engine or noisemaker to the HW tank the chance is after a short cruise the tank will be 180F ,enough to do real harm.

The solution is an anti-scald valve , expensive , but way cheaper than a helicopter ride and months of plastic surgery.

As Capn Craig pointed out just remove the soap dish. On our old boat we bought a recessed soap dish similar to yours and cut an access hole for the valve replacement and then covered it with the soap dish; worked like a charm.

Eventually, I guess I would have thought of going in through the soap dish opening but I was so focused on the valves it hadn't crossed my mind. Thanks for pointing it out! I'll check it out further this weekend.

Gary:
I solved the same problem with new stuff from www.hudsonreed.com. didn't need to get behind the wall.