How Often Should I Run Engines And Gen.
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hmason
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Gen about every couple of weeks under load for 15 or 20 minutes. Running your engines at the dock is not good for them. They need to be run under load as well or they won't reach operating temperature.
caltexflanc
Guru
Exactly. The genset needs to get to temp too.
Above is correct but rather than letting them sit for a very long time every few months or so I always just started them briefly, 30 seconds or so after pressure came up, to get the oil circulating with no attempt to let them warm. This closes some open valves, moves piston rings to a different spot and adds some lubrication.
Once a month would be my suggestion. You can tie your dock lines tight and then run the engine in reverse at about 1,200 rpm. That should bring the temp up in 10-15 minutes.
Do the same with the genset. The water heater will put some load on it, but an A/C, hair dryer or toaster will put even more load when combined with the water heater if it is 5KW or more.
David
Do the same with the genset. The water heater will put some load on it, but an A/C, hair dryer or toaster will put even more load when combined with the water heater if it is 5KW or more.
David
FOG
Guru
This is the same routine I use. Usually do it on a weekday so I don't agitate the neighbors.
We run everything on the boats at least once a month. That includes running the showers, flushing the toilets, running the AC. It's not just the engines and generators. How often have you gotten on your boat after it sat and had various small annoyances like toilets or AC or instrumentation with problems?
O C Diver
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That's a good idea, but the boat really needs to go for a short trip. A one hour cruise where everything is operating under real conditions should be good. Want the engine to run under a normal load. Same for the drive train and rudder. Want to walk around and listen for anything different while the boat is operating normally.
Ted
FF
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An hour a month under way seems to work.
A cold start with no warmup under load might do more harm than good.
Most engine mfg have someplace in their literature a procedure for "out of service" layup..
ON Detroits its 30 days.
A cold start with no warmup under load might do more harm than good.
Most engine mfg have someplace in their literature a procedure for "out of service" layup..
ON Detroits its 30 days.
Pgitug
Guru
When you run your generator at the dock you can extend the life of the unit by more than 35% if you will flush the raw water with fresh water before each shut down. I was told this by two technicians. One at Northern Lights and one at Fisher Panda.
I try to do the same flush on my main but it takes too much water.
When you flush, NEVER close the thru hull. Let the hose pressure dominate the water supply. Closing the thru hull during the wrong valve sequence can cause problems.
I try to do the same flush on my main but it takes too much water.
When you flush, NEVER close the thru hull. Let the hose pressure dominate the water supply. Closing the thru hull during the wrong valve sequence can cause problems.
SCOTTEDAVIS
Guru
This may extend the life of the cooling system but the engines are most n
likely already fresh water cooled.
FYI
If you do this remember to remove the zincs as they will not like long term operation in fresh water. Remember magnesium is the choice for fresh water systems and zinc can be rendered inoperative with long term storage in fresh.
You do not need to change for short term operation in fresh water (crossing lake O in Florida for ex) as I understand it.
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While I understand the benefits, my dumb ass would likely forget something and end up causing way more harm than good. So in my case, KISS is more effective. Just let it choke down some muriatic acids or Rydlime every couple of years and that should do it.
Luckily for us... as we don't always get monthly opportunities to travel 100 miles to our boat, especially just to spend a short time simply starting and warming up our engines and gen set...
Our Tolly has gasoline engines and gen set. Them babies can sit as long as we need while still starting right up and running fine with no damage, Sorta like a car. Start and drive!
Also - I keep plenty of "Soltron" mixed into our 200 gallons of gasoline. Have never had separation problem... even after up to a year before adding any new fuel.
Happy Engine/Fuel Maintenance Daze! - Art
Our Tolly has gasoline engines and gen set. Them babies can sit as long as we need while still starting right up and running fine with no damage, Sorta like a car. Start and drive!
Also - I keep plenty of "Soltron" mixed into our 200 gallons of gasoline. Have never had separation problem... even after up to a year before adding any new fuel.
Happy Engine/Fuel Maintenance Daze! - Art
Nomad Willy
Guru
I usta say once a month but now I really don't think it matters.
Two or three months should'nt cause a problem at all.
Several years and I' like a compression release and to do quite a few 10 second crankings prior to ignition.
Oil and coolant heaters are a waste of time IMO unless your habbits don't include 10 or 15 minute warmups ... 90% of that underway. Running rough at an idle isn't a problem either but to be avoided w gear engaged. An old truck driver once told me to "let-er chug" (at idle). Kinda like cruising rpm and the "sweet spot". I always transpose that to max smoothness. What the human operator likes .. but the engine probably could care less.
Two or three months should'nt cause a problem at all.
Several years and I' like a compression release and to do quite a few 10 second crankings prior to ignition.
Oil and coolant heaters are a waste of time IMO unless your habbits don't include 10 or 15 minute warmups ... 90% of that underway. Running rough at an idle isn't a problem either but to be avoided w gear engaged. An old truck driver once told me to "let-er chug" (at idle). Kinda like cruising rpm and the "sweet spot". I always transpose that to max smoothness. What the human operator likes .. but the engine probably could care less.
That is what we do, a minimum of one hour.
Ski in NC
Technical Guru
The best thing is to take boat for a run at least once a month, and run it long enough and hard enough to get all the juices to peak temps.
But that is not always a practical option, understood.
Short runs dockside help keep the surfaces oiled, but do tend to get moisture in oil that won't get cooked out. But it would take many many dockside starts to get moisture level to a harmful point.
But the damage from a corroded cylinder or corroded valve can happen in a period of a few months.
So if you can't go for a run, I think a brief monthly run is the best non-optimal option. I don't think it is beneficial to run all the way up to temp, as what matters is oil temp and that will never get up there dockside.
What I would recommend is start up, when oil pressure gets up, rev engine a little to say 800 or 1000 to get oil slinging around. Run a few minutes, then to idle, then put in reverse. If a twin, you can put one in fwd and one in rev and that limits the strain on dock lines. Maybe a minute in gear. Then to neut, rev up to 1200 for more juice slinging, then idle, then off.
Once you do this for six months in a row, you really should do what it takes to get under way and cook the oil dry.
Also good to run boat hard on it's last trip for winter storage for boats that do that. Dry oil then for all winter.
But that is not always a practical option, understood.
Short runs dockside help keep the surfaces oiled, but do tend to get moisture in oil that won't get cooked out. But it would take many many dockside starts to get moisture level to a harmful point.
But the damage from a corroded cylinder or corroded valve can happen in a period of a few months.
So if you can't go for a run, I think a brief monthly run is the best non-optimal option. I don't think it is beneficial to run all the way up to temp, as what matters is oil temp and that will never get up there dockside.
What I would recommend is start up, when oil pressure gets up, rev engine a little to say 800 or 1000 to get oil slinging around. Run a few minutes, then to idle, then put in reverse. If a twin, you can put one in fwd and one in rev and that limits the strain on dock lines. Maybe a minute in gear. Then to neut, rev up to 1200 for more juice slinging, then idle, then off.
Once you do this for six months in a row, you really should do what it takes to get under way and cook the oil dry.
Also good to run boat hard on it's last trip for winter storage for boats that do that. Dry oil then for all winter.
Notlandlockedforlong
Member
Does anyone have an opinion on a pre-lube system? Although it won't help your ring/cylinder walls, it'll give you a little help on the bottom end.
Engine Pre Lube System Insta-Lube Kit
Engine Pre Lube System Insta-Lube Kit
danderer
Guru
Maybe somewhat apples-to-different-types-of-apples, but one aviation piston engine builder recommends:
".. at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate.
Source: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Lycoming%20SL180B.pdf
".. at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate.
Source: http://www.reiffpreheat.com/Lycoming%20SL180B.pdf
what_barnacles
Guru
Just to add...
The goal is correct but almost impossible without to achieve in an unloaded diesel.
To get the boil off in a diesel you have to run it with the prop engaged, tie that stinger tight eh. For a diesel genny, just runs all the ac's.
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Probably the number one reason to have oil pan heaters or block heaters is to keep everything in the engine space dry(including engine internals)and free of condensation and moisture. And for that, they do the job well and are far from worthless!!! Many times there are parts that will rust into pieces before they wear out. So corrosion control is very valuable!!!...not to mention your engine space looking a lot nicer.
I pre lube all my gasoline 4 cycle engines, car, truck, boat by turning over with starter till oil pressure comes up on the gauge. Then I trip the choke by momentarily opening throttle to full... then immediately drop throttle back to idle and start em.
"Simple is as simple does"!
Last edited:
psneeld
Guru
seasalt007
Guru
I run my engines and generator just long enough to check water flow. This is what I have done for years except I do it once a week if possible. It not only moves things around and puts oil on them, it exposes different valves and pistons to the atmosphere down the open exhaust pipe.
The impellers also stop, hopefully, in a new place thus reducing the chance of getting a set on them.
The very worst thing you can do is run your engines for an extended period at the dock...in gear or not.
Nomad Willy
Guru
Baker,
Your #23 .... I agree fully.
Your #23 .... I agree fully.
Nomad Willy
Guru
Danderer wrote;
"at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate."
Very good sir I agree. But IMO it can be done in less than an hour. And 180 degree min would be better for a boat. I run 190.
"at least one continuous hour at oil temperatures of 165°F to 200°F at intervals not to exceed 30 days". This allows any water that may have condensed in the oil to boil/evaporate."
Very good sir I agree. But IMO it can be done in less than an hour. And 180 degree min would be better for a boat. I run 190.
psneeld
Guru
Depends if you are running them hard enough to get up to temp in gear.
Broad stroke statements usually have an exception or two......
Deckape
Senior Member
Run all systems for an hour each month. Different rpms for 5minutes or so. Then in gear ,forward and reverse ,then freshwater flush before shutting down. Gen is run with water heater ,and a/ c running then freshwater flush.also. We are at the dock and living aboard so all other systems are getting used everyday.
