Still looking, maybe found one except for....

Looked at another boat today. Overall it looked real nice except for 1 of the engines. Cummins 5.9 315 hp. It appears this engine is leaking oil out of all of the valve covers. Also a few quarts low. Turbo is rusty so paint has gone away, maybe from overheating?
According to the broker the seller had the oil changed and the guy didn't put the plug back in the drain line. Seller started the engine and pulled out and quickly heard noises. Opened hatch and saw oil all over that engine, shut it down and pulled back into slip. Had engine checked out and said it was ok. Took a trip of 2000 miles roundtrip and claims no problems.
But it is either still leaking or he never cleaned up the mess?
Any thoughts on this? Try to get him to fix the engine or cut price? Or walk away and look for another boat?

folivier said:

Looked at another boat today. Overall it looked real nice except for 1 of the engines. Cummins 5.9 315 hp. It appears this engine is leaking oil out of all of the valve covers. Also a few quarts low. Turbo is rusty so paint has gone away, maybe from overheating?
According to the broker the seller had the oil changed and the guy didn't put the plug back in the drain line. Seller started the engine and pulled out and quickly heard noises. Opened hatch and saw oil all over that engine, shut it down and pulled back into slip. Had engine checked out and said it was ok. Took a trip of 2000 miles roundtrip and claims no problems.
But it is either still leaking or he never cleaned up the mess?
Any thoughts on this? Try to get him to fix the engine or cut price? Or walk away and look for another boat?

Click to expand...

Situation like that, you could have a mechanical survey by a Certified Cummins shop. IF it were me, And I already suspected an engine issue, I'd specify that if ther engine failed survey then the seller would pay the survey costs.

So many boats out there without those issues.

I think you are getting a snow job from the broker, or he is passing the SJ on directly from the owner. Either way, I would be walking away. If this is how they explain what is obviously wrong, and hasn't been fixed properly to boot, how about the 101 other things you haven't seen yet?

Kevin is right,despite appearances the owner says it`s fine,claims he`s done 2000 miles since, so if it`s not, it`s fair he pays. Who`s not going to clean up an oil mess while running 2000miles??
Having zoomed in on that, if you go further start with the mechanical survey before and any necessary negotiations regarding the result before progressing to the general survey.

ksanders said:

...if ther engine failed survey then the seller would pay the survey costs.

Click to expand...

Problem is, who defines "failed?" I think you would need to be more specific. Like, "if the estimate to repair exceeds X dollars, then the seller will pay for the survey cost."

Otherwise, the seller is likely to say, "Hell no, it didn't 'fail' the survey! It just needs a head job, two new pistons, and the crankshaft reground. That's normal maintenance for an engine this old!"

I always say " subject to inspection sea trial and survey with the results satisfactory to the buyer at his sole discretion"

Can you trust the seller? Even surveys cannot pick up all problems. If you are prepared to do a full out of the boat rebuild or replacement and can dicker hard enough then maybe. If not then walk.

Rebuilds and replacement are a BIG deal. They always take a lot more money and time than most of us envision. Even a rebuild is not foolproof unless you REALLY KNOW who is doing it. All you have to do is read some Boatdiesel threads to realize that there are a lot of questionable rebuilders out there.

Find a GOOD engine surveyor/mechanic and ask. To even attempt to assess any engine like this would require:
--blowby test
--oil sample - typically one shots not good for condition monitoring although they can show a serious now problem . Is there any history of the owner taking oil samples? That could then be used to guage against a current test for condition changes.
--full WOT run test to ensure the boat is propped correctly. ALso long enough to test for proper cooling system operation.
--High idle test. WOT & High idle should not be done with typical analogue dash tachs but either a high quality tach such as an Aetna or more likely a handheld laser pointer digital phototach. Any good mechanic should have one, handheld unit.
--COLD, DEAD COLD, startup can be read to indicate general condition of the engine to an experienced and knowledgeable mechanic, especially of that model and builder.
--Turbo boost level.
--EGT

These are just a start for a proper test. And i am sure i have missed some items.

Having been through several Cummins engine surveys....

If a Cummins engine fails blow by it is recommended that it be removed and disassembled to find the cause.

That is "fail"