Windlass Switch

Edelweiss said:

But if you're not all chain, then that would be a challenge for a single person.

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It depends on the gypsy type. I have a combo gypsy and the chain and line rode flows through pretty seamlessly like it would if I had all chain.

If you have a chain gypsy and a line drum, then it's a bit more laborious.

I bought a wireless winch remote, marketed toward use on off-road vehicles, from Amazon for about $15. Came with two remotes. I also carry a spare of the whole kit. I just take one remote up to the bow when I set or retrieve the anchor, and if I end up back at the helm, I can use it there. Couldn't be easier. I never touch the switches at each helm, don't even know if they still work.

To me, this was preferable to cutting holes in the deck to install foot switches. I'd use them if they were already installed, but I don't see any reason to install new ones nowadays.

CaptTom said:

I bought a wireless winch remote, marketed toward use on off-road vehicles, from Amazon for about $15. Came with two remotes.

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Like this?



https://smile.amazon.com/Factory-Wi...8101139&sr=8-4&keywords=wireless+winch+remote

HopCar said:

Ever since I installed my windlass, I've never gone forward to launch or retrieve my anchor.
I slip the engine in and out of gear with my right hand and control the windlass with my left.

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When launching, I need to be forward after advancing a half-foot of chain for slack so to push the anchor over. Nevertheless, total recovery is possible from the pilothouse, but then there would be no one forward to pick off seaweed or wash of mud and salt from the anchor and its chain. Being forward, I can see what has come up from the bottom. ... How does your anchor locker smell?

CaptTom
What brand of winch do you have? Was it difficult to install?

Hi Mark, I use a combination rode of rope with about a boat length of chain. The chain is stainless steel and it comes up pretty clean even when my anchor is caked in mud. The anchor hangs pretty far forward so mud and such rarely come aboard.

If stainless chain wasn't so horribly expensive, I'd recommend it for everyone. The only reason I use it is I stumbled on a good deal many years ago.

FlyWright said:

Like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Factory-Wi...8101139&sr=8-4&keywords=wireless+winch+remote

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Yes, that's the one.

kartracer said:

CaptTom
What brand of winch do you have? Was it difficult to install?

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I have an old PowerWinch 45.

Installation was not difficult. Just wired it to the solenoid switch. The hardest part was reaching up into the rode locker to reach the terminals. Most of the time was spent "engineering" before hand, taking photos, drawing schematics and generally just making sure it really would be that easy.

Now I'm starting to think about other uses for this type of remote. They have some that control multiple circuits, and they have both momentary contact and "on-off" types.

My next project might be a remote for the autopilot. The $350 wired remote that Simrad sells uses only four wires. Internally, it's just two switches, two diodes and a light bulb. Power on one wire, ground on another, and one wire each for the "left" and "right" buttons. Pushing both buttons together gives you the "mode change" function; the diodes allow all three functions over the same two wires. I have a PDF of the schematic I think I posted here once. A two-button remote that controls two separate relays would, in theory, give you the same capability for about one-twentieth the cost.

And what about the cabin lighting? I have a switch at each fixture. Wouldn't it be great to be able to turn banks of them on and off remotely?

If you are going to have only one switch, I'd recommend putting it at the pilothouse helm. There will be times you want to adjust the rode during bad weather. If a squall is passing and you need to let out more scope, it is very nice not to have to go outside. this was our only switch for our first 4 years of cruising this boat. Cristina and I developed a simple set of hand signals so she could drive the boat up to the anchor and raise the anchor while I stood at the bow washing the rode. 4 years ago we installed a wireless remote. Now she merely drives the boat forward, still with hand signals, and i control the rise and fall of the rode as I wash it. This local control is particularly helpful as you bring in the last few feet of chain to stow the anchor. While a foot switch also gives you local control over the rode, it does limit your movement. In muddy anchorages, it is sometimes nice to be able move around on the deck to to spray the anchor from several directions.

One downside of foot switches as opposed to remotes is the inability to walk around. Walking around permits you to position yourself to both see the chain and give hand signals to whomever is at the helm. I find that in a normal anchor lift I change positions two or three times as the angle of the chain changes.

Aboard Seaweed I have a wired remote from the solenoid just outside the anchor locker. I simply hang it in the hatch when I've got the anchor down.

Here's my set-up:


#1) Where the remote hangs when I'm at anchor
#2) That's the remote
#3) Box where my solenoid lives
#4) Access to anchor locker.

Side Note: The cord for the remote looks like an old telephone cord though heavier/bigger. It fits inside that box when I'm not using it.

The box is in the wrong dang place. I'd wanted to put it on the forward bulkhead. Aw, but for the lack of six more inches of 4-gauge black wire. Sigh. I didn't want to add a break in that wire run so there you have it.

My concern regarding the wireless remotes is that if you came in with a remote set at the same frequency as mine, couldn't you raise my anchor? Is that one of those "it never happens" things or not?

My concern regarding the wireless remotes is that if you came in with a remote set at the same frequency as mine, couldn't you raise my anchor? Is that one of those "it never happens" things or not?[/QUOTE]

The range of the remote is very short. The marine remote manufacturers are all big companies and have certainly had their engineering and liability departments study this closely. I have not heard of this happening and am certain that the chance of it happening is "remote." We have several other remote controls including our auto pilot, air conditioners, televisions and stereo. So far we have not had any interference from any other source.

tadhana said:

The range of the remote is very short. The marine remote manufacturers are all big companies and have certainly had their engineering and liability departments study this closely. I have not heard of this happening and am certain that the chance of it happening is "remote."

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Thank you. I'd often wondered about that...

I drop things so would worry about that unless there's a nice lanyard attached.

Thanks tadhana for the education.

janice142 said:

I drop things so would worry about that unless there's a nice lanyard attached.

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Same here. That's what I liked about the kit that came with 2 remotes. The big, bulky one is hard to lose. The small one clips on a belt loop, although I have managed to misplace it once or twice.

I like the lanyard idea.

janice142 said:

Aboard Seaweed I have a wired remote from the solenoid just outside the anchor locker. I simply hang it in the hatch when I've got the anchor down. ...

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That's handy.

A remote is something I wouldn't want to drop overboard.

Capt Tom

Thanks for the idea, just ordered one, will post how it works on the Lewmar 1000

My Lewmar remote hangs around my neck on a necklace from some PassageMaker event I attended, and it floats too. Been used hundreds of times up and down the Atlantic Coast over the last 4 years.

GoneFarrell said:

Windlass loads and procedures are not to be trifled with, very powerful and potentially dangerous piece of equipment. Manned shut off switch at the helm stations are important part of safe anchoring!

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A few things can be done to limit potential problems.
First of all, there should be a circuit breaker which trips when the windlass is overloaded. Size it correctly according to the windlass manufacture's recommendations.

Secondly, adjust the clutch on your windlass so it starts to slip if something jams up or if the anchor is stuck. It's simple to tighten up the clutch if needed for extra pulling power, but there is no need to have full pulling power in day to day shallow anchoring circumstances.

I just finished installing a new windlass on our sailboat. I weighed the options and went with a wired rocker at the helm as well as a wireless controller. Cost was a wash by the time all the extra wire and whatnot was added in. I really dislike the foot switches. Had bad luck with them in the past.
I mounted the remote below the breaker as well as added an indicator light to the breaker so I won't accidentally be left on. So far so good. Just need to pick up a lanyard for the remote.

Bay Pelican said:

One downside of foot switches as opposed to remotes is the inability to walk around. Walking around permits you to position yourself to both see the chain and give hand signals to whomever is at the helm. I find that in a normal anchor lift I change positions two or three times as the angle of the chain changes.

Click to expand...

I have foot switches on my boat. I had a wired remote on my sailboat. I preferred the wired remote for the reasons you outlined. A wireless remote would be nice, but will be way down on the priority list.

Capt Tom

Thanks for the advice on the wireless remote for my windless, just received it and looks to be a breeze to install.

You do know its windlass with an 'A' right?

Depends


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78
Sorry,,, was not very good in school, but did much much better in the business world

I have no doubt of that.

I prefer an anchor wench.

good one!

X2

kartracer said:

Do you all have a master off/on switch so that no one accidently steps on the bow foot switch.

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We found out today that we have one...well hubby may have known but I didn't. It's in the chain locker which is in our bedroom.
Couldn't figure out why the windlass wasn't working so hubby went to check things out and found the switch had been turned off. We're guessing maybe the surveyor flipped it.

Anyhow...who knew? Not me....but I do now. Lol

On mine, windlass master on/off switch is adjacent to the battery selectors, located in the pilothouse.