Transmissions temps

Anybody have transmission temp gauges?

Am interested in installing but would like others comments.

Thanks

No. I judge our transmission temperatures by putting a hand on them during an engine room check. If I can put my hand on them and keep my hand there, the temperature is fine. Actually, our two Velvet Drives don't run very hot at all, particularly after switching to 1" Johnson raw water pumps on the FL120s. The transmissions are hot, but not so hot that holding a hand on them for any length of time is uncomfortable.

Thanks Marin. I want to monitor temps at the helm because I cruise single engine. A rise in temp on the free wheeling tranny is time to restart.*

timjet wrote:
Thanks Marin. I want to monitor temps at the helm because I cruise single engine. A rise in temp on the free wheeling tranny is time to restart.*

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I would think that by the time a rise in temperature of a freewheeling transmisison started to register, damage from the lack of lubrication would have already occured.* Every transmission is different, but I suspect that this is why the operator's manual for the BW Velvet Drive says that the transmisison can only be freewheeled at low speeds, which they define in the manual as trolling or sailing speeds.

Mr ZF Marine manual indicates its ok to freewheel, no restrictions. However the tech said limit it to 30 minutes. You're probably right about being too late.

timjet wrote:
Thanks Marin. I want to monitor temps at the helm because I cruise single engine. A rise in temp on the free wheeling tranny is time to restart.*

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Hi Tim
Marin is correct - Most trany, especially Velvet Drive,*are not supposed to be allowed too fast a freewheeling turn. *I think there are even recommended number of hours at slow turn.* From what I understand (and Ive done this a few times with my Velvet Drives experiencing no heating or other problem) you can cruise at up to 8 knts (I cruised at about 5.5 to 6 knts on one engine at low rpm) for up to 1 hour before the freewheeling trany needs to either stop turning or have that engine started so the trany fluid again circulates; and the other trany set into free wheel if desired.* Ive also cruised for many hours using only one engine but I locked the free wheel shaft so it cannot turn.* I simply used a rubber buffer strip and big vice grip pliers on the off motors shaft... worked fine, but to place it is a small-pain in my engine compartment and once one engine is hot its a real-pain to either get in to remove the vice grips completely or switch the vice grips to the other shaft if desired!* So I did it before start!
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I just spoke with Anne at Shaft Lok Inc, http://www.shaftlok.com/ regarding their locking apparatus.* I plan to speak with Ken, her hubby the inventor of Shaft Lok.* Stout looking unit... but... from what I currently glean Im not sure I agree with the way it functions or with the way it needs to be set to lock the shaft.* Cost: $800 +/- per engine.*
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Vice grips and a*rubber strip beat that cost by a mite! - Cheers, Art*****
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I guess mine are a little different, but I do swap engines every 20 minutes. I don't like blocking an engine as we do a lot of ICW cruising.
Anybody have temp gauges?

Art wrote:
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Vice grips and a*rubber strip beat that cost by a mite!
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Because our shaft logs depend on a cooling/lubing water flow from the engine's raw water system we cannot let a shaft freewheel even though the Velvet Drive transmissions can be freewheeled at very low speeds.

I personally don't feel the fuel savings from running on one offsets the handling and steering buffeting that results (on our boat, perhaps not on a boat with hydraulic steering), so we have always run on two.

But we have had to shut one down on four occasions and finish the run on one.* Three times for cooling issues and once because I let an engine get a slug of air during a fuel transfer and didn't want to bleed the engine while bobbing around in roughish water.

In each instance we locked off the unpowered shaft.* However we tie it off.* After the first instance I installed heavy brackets on the undersides of the floor beams directly above each shaft coupler.* A shackle is attached to each bracket.* So if we have to lock off a shaft we simply tie a line around the coupler, then wrap it around the coupler a number of times in the opposite direction that it wants to turn and secure the other end of the line to the shackle up above the coupler.* Works like charm, although it's something we prefer not to have to use.

Art wrote:.......Shaft Lok.* Stout looking unit... but... from what I currently glean Im not sure I agree with the way it functions or with the way it needs to be set to lock the shaft.* Cost: $800 +/- per engine.*

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Vice grips and a*rubber strip beat that cost by a mite! - Cheers, Art*****
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*Art:* We had a Shaft LoK and ended up with the vice grips.* Your are right, it is a stout unit but the way you need to set the Lok is where we had problems.* The "Lok" can only be set or aligned in one position and the*propeller/shaft*has to be spinning*but at less than 3 knots or so or you damage*the mechanism while trying to lock it.* Stay with the vise grips.

Larry M wrote:
Art:* We had a Shaft LoK and ended up with the vice grips.* Your are right, it is a stout unit but the way you need to set the Lok is where we had problems.* The "Lok" can only be set or aligned in one position and the*propeller/shaft*has to be spinning*but at less than 3 knots or so or you damage*the mechanism while trying to lock it.* Stay with the vise grips.

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*Thanks for the*heads up, Larry

I also have pressure gauges on the transmissions. Recently I noticed a fluctuation and rise in pressure on the stbd tranny and called the service tech for info on how to proceed. He suggested swapping the sending units since fluctuations is not a normal problem. I did and that cleared things up. Probably the act of removing and reinstalling the sending units disloged a bit of debris. Sometimes too much info can cause needless worry, and complicate things.

I have an oil pressure guage on my marine gear.

I would think it would do the same as a temp guage. If the pressure is down you've got problems. Lack of oil would most likely be the cause of high temperatures.

Does your transmission have a place for a temp sender to be installed? Or an oil pressure sender?

I think that is all you would need. A sender and a guage. And a place to install it.

The way I see it you can't have to much information about your engine

SD


-- Edited by skipperdude on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 10:43:15 AM

SD; yes have the pressure gauge. It's not working correctly though. Presently reading about 100 psi low. The tech said the tranny's would not stay in gear with pressure that low. Since both tranny's are reading the same 100 psi low, I suspect the gauge.

Irradicate pressure readings will not immediately indicate a rise in oil temp and since lack of lubrication with the accompaning rise in oil temp is the problem running single engine, I want to install temp gauges. Besides since the engine not running is not developing pressure the tranny press on that engine is 0. The simple way to install temp sending units is to get a thermo-couple and attach it to a bolt near the bottom of the tranny. Remove the bolt, insert the thermo-couple ring on the bolt and reattach. One like this should work:*http://www.egauges.com/vdo_indS.asp?Sender=Cyl_Head&PN=323-705

At least I think this should work.

Good info is always good, bad info like my pressure gauge can lead to needless worry.*



-- Edited by timjet on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 10:59:38 AM


-- Edited by timjet on Wednesday 2nd of November 2011 11:03:42 AM

All: The info below is regarding my today interface with Ken Nigel Inventor/owner of Shaft Lok.* Ken assured me on phone Shaft Lok is lifetime guaranteed.* He also mentioned that older models had some locking and unlocking problems that have been engineered correctly for some time now.* Below this portion was sent to me by email from Ken, the owner.* I feel it would be great to have secure manner to easily and quickly lock or unlock either shaft so the fuel savings of using only one engine during slow cruising can be realized.* Good luck! - Art
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Anne & Ken Nigel shaftlok@ix.netcom.com*
Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 8:50 AM
To: Art
Subject: Twin Screw Trawlers, Shaft Lok, Nov 2, 2011
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Hello Art,******** Nov 2, 2011******* Shaft Lok Inc.
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Thank you for your time on the phone this morning.* As explained the control cable is used to lock the unit. It is not necessary to position the control cable at the helm station since the Shaft Lok unit automatically unlocks.* Most cruisers fit the control cable closer to the engine area inside the boat.
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To lock the unit, push on*the control cable*palm knob. Especially during the first few times locking the unit it is important*to feel the locking pin move into the cam on the rotating disc.* The shorter cable*helps in this regard to lock the unit. The unit is designed so that it will automatically unlock when the*engine is started and the transmission put into gear.
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The Mod II & Mod III unit length from the center of the bore (propeller shaft center) to the top of the unit where the cable is bolted is 7 inches (177.8 mm) and 12.5 inches (317.5 mm) respectively.* Minimum cable radius is 12 inches (304.8 mm).** Treat the cable like a diesel fuel line.* Custom cables up to 13 feet (3.96 meters) are available.* When*measuring the*cable path allow a few extra inches (50 mm) to make sure the cable is slightly slack.* Once the cable is shipped it cannot be altered.* Cable and unit prices are on web site; http://www.shaftlok.com/User_Inquiry_Letter3.htm* Most popular cable sizes are in stock.*
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The Simple Spring Locking System ($35 USD) which replaces the control cable is affixed to the top of the Shaft Lok unit.* http://www.shaftlok.com/TheSSLS_notepad.html** The SSLS means that one has to access the engine room each time when locking the unit.
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All unit dimensions:* http://www.shaftlok.com/backcover_photo.htm
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Mod I and Mod III prices on the web site are correct.* We are in the process of changing the Mod II Easy Lok prices effective November 1, 2011:* Mod II Easy Lok with 1 ¼ bore or smaller is $533,*greater than 1 ¼ is $711*and 2 or larger is $833.
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Thank you for the inquiry.* Enjoy boatingKen Nigel (262) 786-6800

You might also try contacting Seaboard Marine* and asking about their temp sensitive snap switches. They use some rated for about 210oF for exhaust alarms but also , I believe, have lower rated units that could be used as an alarm to trigger a light or piezo tone or both to get your attention. If they don't think it's suitable they will tell you. Most gears ideally, T.D.s, operating temps is intended somewhere around 150-175oF so a switch around this temp should do the job. Much simpler than a thermocouple based sensor.

www.sbmar.com

Thanks Electric. I've done business with them before. I'll call.

Chekc out their prices then give these guys a call.

http://www.senasys.com/

There are several manufacturers of disk type thermal switches with mounting types and temperature ranges and they are available for very reasonable prices down to the $1 range in new unused surplus.

If you find the perfect product surplus, buy a handful because you might not find them again.



-- Edited by RickB on Friday 4th of November 2011 09:27:13 AM


-- Edited by RickB on Friday 4th of November 2011 09:27:43 AM

Nice site!! Thanks

T.Y. too. Different mfgr with the name but this is what I had in mind. Just couldn't remember or find the mfgr.

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Found it:****** http://www.airpax.net/site/sensing/bimetal/index.html


-- Edited by C lectric on Friday 4th of November 2011 04:16:02 PM

Good lead on the Airpax stuff. There are many far less expensive ways to get better quality stuff than from the mainline boat supply folks but it does take a bit of research and a friendly tip or two.

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