Prop Speed Coating

I talked with a rep at a boat show, and did some research on the web.

This prop and underwater gear coating is used extensively in Aus, and seems to be used more in the US the past few years.

I have dual, counter rotating high speed props, and getting some pitting. We have ruled out galvanic action, so I think it's related to cavitation.

I was thinking about applying this material at the next haul out. I realize it will not completely resolve the situation, just trying to mitigate the situation.

Any feedback on the product, experience, etc is appreciated.

Do a forum search re "Prop Speed"the subject has been extensively covered. I had previously used all sorts of coatings but since changing to Prop Speed some 10 odd years ago would now not use any thing else.I am not high speed but some of my friends who use the product are.

I tried Prop Speed two haulouts ago. It was gone in one season. It cost $200+ to have the yard apply it. Unless you do it yourself and haul out annually I wouldn't bother.


David

We're again having one in CT not benefiting in his mind but move him to South Florida and he'd feel quite different. We wouldn't own a boat without it. However, we're in the world of bottom cleaning monthly not of annual haulouts to clean. The metal underneath then wipes down easily just like the bottom. We do get it re-coated annually.

Craig,
I got by w ArmorAll in Alaska.

Nomad Willy said:

Craig,
I got by w ArmorAll in Alaska.

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ArmorAll, you mean the vinyl protectant ?

Had good luck last season (6 months, 300 hours) with Petit Hydrocoat copper-free. All the underwater metals, including the prop, looked great with no growth. No primer, just painted over bare metal. Surprised the heck out of me.

PropSpeed is great on the props themselves on a slow trawler. It depends on the props' speed to self-clean. On fast 14kt+ boats, it also works well on all the running gear (struts, rudders, etc) but on slow trawlers, the benefit of applying it to other than the props is reduced.


Key to success is meticulous prep and in the USA, where it is still becoming established, you will need to find a yard that is experienced OR which is prepared to read the manufactuer's prepp'ing instructions and follow them strictly and not treat it just like any other anti-fouling. Poor prep and it will come off in a few months; right prep and should be good for at least 2 years in a high-fouling area, in my experience, IF you use the boat regularly. If you use a diver, it makes it a lot easier for them to get the running gear clean and unlike soft anti-foulings, can take a bit of gentle scrubbing (all it takes) and effectiveness can be extended to 3 years.

OK it looks like the subject will be re hashed.
The product must be applied as per the manufacturers instructions and the preparation must be spot on.
I normally get 24 months out of one application and I haul out every 12 months (timber boat).
I don't usually clean underneath except if and when I get up the reef, even then when I rub down the hull I will not touch the prop as it will spoil the coating but still no growth on it.
I think there are enough photos on the forum for proof of the application.
I have attached one photo from last haul out after an extended stay in the water of 18 months.

Tidahapah said:

OK it looks like the subject will be re hashed.
The product must be applied as per the manufacturers instructions and the preparation must be spot on.
.

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That can never be said too much. Much like painting. The vast majority of criticisms of Awlgrip or Alexseal or other paints is the failure to do the job correctly.

I wanted to have my yard put Prop Speed on my props but decided, when I heard the price to do an experiment. This was in FL BTW. When the boat was hauled and the props cleaned, I had the yard spray them and the shafts with Rustoleum Cold Galvanizing Spray. Purchased it at Home Despot for about $8 per spray can. I used 1.5 cans.

Two years later, 6 months in FL and 6 in CT each year, the props look great. They are not growth free, but any growth pretty much cleans right off. My diver comes once a month and is pretty amazed. YMMV.

Howard,
My Petit Barnicle Buster and Rustoleum cold gal has worked good too. Had some fuz on the prop until I ran it in gear. The boat has been sitting. I would suspect that the cold gal would not hold up in Florida but further north .... fine.

But why spend a lot of money on Prop Speed if a $10 spray can will do basically as good? Some time ago I made it a point to haul out once a year so why put $250 a gal bottom paint on when $100 paint will do.

Tidahapah,
Looks and sounds like you're getting your moneys worth.

Bill11,
Yes .. The auto parts store stuff. I put on several drippy coats. But I think the Petit cold gal or Rustoleum cold gal is better. But if you're in Alaska on a grid w a wet prop the ArmorAll is better than nothing.

The real question the OP seems to be asking is whether Prop Speed will help with the pitting issue.

Personally I kind of doubt it. But that is s question asked the manufacturer.

Or better yet, talk to a good prop shop and take care of whatever is causing the cavitation.

djmarchand said:

I tried Prop Speed two haulouts ago. It was gone in one season. It cost $200+ to have the yard apply it. Unless you do it yourself and haul out annually I wouldn't bother.

David

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Have a haul-out annually if for nothing else to treat the propeller.

djmarchand said:

I tried Prop Speed two haulouts ago. It was gone in one season. It cost $200+ to have the yard apply it. Unless you do it yourself and haul out annually I wouldn't bother.David

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I had almost exactly the same experience & I agree with David.

Preparation is the key to long life from Prop Speed and IMO the only way to do a 100% clean is to soda blast every thing that will be painted .
Its the little bits of old paint under the Prop Speed that contaminate the PS and cause most problems .Another thing here in Ozzwhere I am the location of where one moors there boat can make a difference of 12 to 24 month life of PS

Damn it Mark, even your propeller is pretty.

Here is my prop, just hauled, and before pressure wash, and after 3 years in the water with PropSpeed...and not ever cleaned by a diver either...then, just before re-splash...

Capt.Bill11 said:

The real question the OP seems to be asking is whether Prop Speed will help with the pitting issue.

Personally I kind of doubt it. But that is s question asked the manufacturer.

Or better yet, talk to a good prop shop and take care of whatever is causing the cavitation.

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Thank you! That was indeed the questions, and I agree with your answer. If cavitation is eroding the metal on the prop, then it will surely erode the prop speed. I think you will be better off figuring out why you have excessive cavitation and addressing the real source of the problem.

We love prop-speed!

A local boat had some sort of electrolysis "event" where his prop went anodic. That is never good, and we think we have the issue resolved. But what happened was anywhere the propspeed coating was imperfect, like blade edges, the corrosion was severe enough to destroy the prop. If prop was not coated, the metal loss would have likely been spread of a larger area and prop salvageable. Maybe.

Oliver does the little baby propeller fold or feather?

HopCar said:

Oliver does the little baby propeller fold or feather?

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Parks, It folds.

Codger2 said:

I had almost exactly the same experience & I agree with David.

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If it's gone in one season it sounds like an improper application issue to me.

gaston said:

Preparation is the key to long life from Prop Speed and IMO the only way to do a 100% clean is to soda blast every thing that will be painted .
Its the little bits of old paint under the Prop Speed that contaminate the PS and cause most problems .Another thing here in Ozzwhere I am the location of where one moors there boat can make a difference of 12 to 24 month life of PS

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Proper prep is one of the keys. But soda blasting is not the only answer.

Another important key is proper application.

Mess up either of those and you've wasted your money.

markpierce said:

Have a haul-out annually if for nothing else to treat the propeller.

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Not everyone has the money to burn on a yearly haul out just to do their prop Mark.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Not everyone has the money to burn on a yearly haul out just to do their prop Mark.

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That may be true but it would be a wise choice to purchase a boat from a previous owner like Mark.

CPseudonym said:

That may be true but it would be a wise choice to purchase a boat from a previous owner like Mark.

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Yeah, if you can find the the exact kind of boat you're looking for and it happens to be owned by the handful of other people out there who pull their boat out every year just so they can have their prop cleaned.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Yeah, if you can find the the exact kind of boat you're looking for...

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Is that even possible? Boats are compromises.

Thanks for the feed back. Very helpful.

I have talked to the local and Corp rep at prop speed, and they can't promise if it will help, and I don't blame them for their reply. But, It is worth a try.

I understand the prep is key, and being an anal engineer, I will make sure that occurs.

I haul out annually, so I can monitor.

Regarding why the pitting is occurring, you don't want to hear it. I could write a 10 page case study on that subject, so I won't bore you with the details.

Lately I am thinking it MAY be related to a casting issue of the props. Again, long story, but the pitting has slowed down by quite a bit.

I am in the water, under the boat every few weeks, year round, so I keep an eye on it.