• Trawler Forum Classified Posting Guidelines
    • We expect ads placed to be related to the topic of this forum.
    • Ads that are inactive for 180 days or longer may be moved to the Classified Archive and locked. Ads may be relisted if the item is still current. Alternatively, owners may contact a Moderator to reinstate an archived ad.
    • The Classified section is for advertising, members are asked to refrain from posting discussions to a Classified Ad. Please start a discussion thread or PM the owner for discussions.
    • Do not hijack another member's ad by posting unsolicited commentary. Example: if a member has posted an ad offering an anchor for sale, don't add a post to his thread stating that you have an anchor you'd like to get rid of also. Posts deemed as unsolicited commentary may be removed.
    • For your own security, do NOT include your e-mail or phone number in your ad. Instead request that interested parties contact you via PM (private message) to provide owners contact info.
    • Brokers, Dealers, or those with a commercial interest in a sale are prohibited from posting in Classifieds.
    • Only Trawler Forum Commercial Members may post ads in the Commercial section. You must be a designated Commercial Member to start threads in this section of the forum. (Contact a moderator if you have questions about this)
    • Don't post links to commercial sites where you are also offering the boat, such as eBay, Craigslist or Yachtworld, etc. unless it contains a more in-depth description, additional information or pictures.
    • Place only one ad per item (you may repost only when your ad has expired and been removed).
    For Sale ads MUST include:
    • Asking price
    • Location
    • A Basic Description
    • Clear statement whether you are the owner or non-owner (posting for friend, relative, or acquaintance)
    • Don't forget to select: FOR SALE, WANTED or FREE in the Title block.
    All ads should also include ALL the following:
    • Pertinent maintenance and condition information
    • Exterior picture or pictures
    • Interior picture or pictures (boats)
    For maximum impact & exposure, it is suggested the Ad Title include: Year, Manufacturer, Model, Length, Price, and Location or at the very top of the ad body. When your item has sold or the ad is no longer relevant: Please post a Reply to the ad that the item is SOLD or click "Report Post" on post 1 of the thread to ask a moderator to archive the ad. Ads may be moved or removed by our staff at any time for any reason. All ads must comply with site rules. Thanks for your cooperation.
  • Avoid Scams.

    Our classifieds are free and anyone registered here is welcome to post an ad.
    Be aware that there are unscrupulous folks out there. Avoid any interaction that seems odd to you or �feels� wrong. Inquiries from unknown buyers, buyers �agents� and other non-traditional approaches should be treated with extreme caution.

    Beware of unsolicited contacts offering to put you in touch with someone else who is buying or selling via e-mail or text.

    Do not post your e-mail address or phone number in a classifieds ad.

    Hints that you may be dealing with a Scammer:
    • Seller or Buyer approaches you via a direct email or PM and then steers you to an off-site communication method (text or email).
    • No posts or very few forum posts.
    • Recent forum membership
    • Insists on conducting negotiations via email or text rather than PM
    • Requires payment via Bank Transfer, BitCoin/CryptoCurrency, WesternUnion or other unsecured method.
    • Buyer or Seller suggests Paypal "Friends and Family" payment. Paypal is a good way to arrange payment but an invoice for goods and services should be used rather than "Friends and Family". "Friends and Family" avoids fees BUT there is no recourse if the transaction runs aground. Friends and Family is for gifts only. There is no protection for Friends and Family transactions, so never ever use it to buy something.
    • Declines to allow viewing the item before proceeding with the transaction.

Wanted: Perkins Range 4 T6-354-4

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Goldenstar38

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 16, 2014
Messages
177
Location
USA
Vessel Make
Goldenstar sportfisher
Not to sound cheap (well, guess I can be) but I am looking for the 90 degree "can" as TAD calls it) that exits the turbo and turns up to clamp the wet exhaust elbow to. Mine uses 4 hold down nuts and has a flange on other side.

TAD (and others) are over $500 and it's tax time and I owe this year.

Just need a decent used part that will last me a year or so and then I can update to a new part.

Willing to pay fair price and shipping.

Thank you.
 
If TAD has one you might want to buy it. According to their website, that part is not made anymore.
 
I just replaced that piece a few months ago. I had zero finding a part that was not a new fabrication. I ended up getting mine from National Marine Exhaust in Marysville, Wa.
 
Yep, impossible to find used.
National Marine Exhaust quoted me $435 with a 2 week wait to built last week. It is a savings, so may go that route.
Thank you for the replies.
 
Yep, impossible to find used.
National Marine Exhaust quoted me $435 with a 2 week wait to built last week. It is a savings, so may go that route.
Thank you for the replies.

Do you have a pic?
 
I was tracing down an exhaust leak the last time I had the boat out, as I smelled diesel exhaust in the salon. After looking closely, I pulled the insulator wrap off the starboard exhaust elbow and this is what I found. The port side has already been replaced prior to my purchase 2.5 years ago along with a new wet elbow.
I have attached 2 pics, maybe not too good.
 

Attachments

  • turbo.jpg
    turbo.jpg
    108.4 KB · Views: 96
  • turbo1.jpg
    turbo1.jpg
    133.6 KB · Views: 86
I was tracing down an exhaust leak the last time I had the boat out, as I smelled diesel exhaust in the salon. After looking closely, I pulled the insulator wrap off the starboard exhaust elbow and this is what I found. The port side has already been replaced prior to my purchase 2.5 years ago along with a new wet elbow.
I have attached 2 pics, maybe not too good.


Dosn't look that bad Id be thinking of getting it built up with weld and grinding
it back a bit to clean it up should be good for 10 years ?
 
I have to throw a new gasket in mine in the next few days. I'll snap a pic when I have the lagging removed.
 
I was tracing down an exhaust leak the last time I had the boat out, as I smelled diesel exhaust in the salon. After looking closely, I pulled the insulator wrap off the starboard exhaust elbow and this is what I found. The port side has already been replaced prior to my purchase 2.5 years ago along with a new wet elbow.
I have attached 2 pics, maybe not too good.


I'm with Gaston. Might be able to get it fixed for a few dollars -or a carton of beer!
 
I am more of a motorcycle/car tech type than a diesel boat doctor. I thought it looked pretty bad, but you guys have much more experience than I and a valid point. I will get it off and have a good welding/fab shop take a look at it. I appreciate the input and will let you know the outcome. Thanks.
 
Question for those familiar with this piece: Does the flange on this elbow have the identical thickness of the wet elbow flange? I would assume so, so that the clamp will be able to properly pull/secure them together. To have a shop be able to properly repair, this would be important to verify. Thanks!
 
Had a stainless steel elbow made here in ft Lauderdale for $850.00. Will try to sent pics. Has collar around elbow so any angle is possible included wraps/gaskets.
 
Hope this comes thru
 
pics

Try again didn't work.
 
Mine had come apart at the gasket/flange between the two elbows,after removing it for repairs on the trans.
 
When I bought my boat, a fellow boater in the area gave me a used, but great condition spare stainless elbow from his boat which he sold. The only problem with it is the angle of the 4" output side. It angles nearly straight down, where mine needs to be at a 45 degree angle. I'm sure if the welder can fix the flange side of the turbo's output, this will also be an easy modification.
 
So what are you going to do?
 
When time permits, get the part off and to a couple of welding shops and see what they can do. Have to cut the nuts off all 4 studs, as they are too rusted on and I don't want to break a stud off in the turbo housing.
 
All 4 of those are studs,as I found out when I removed mine. Sorry the pic did not come thru. Good luck.
 
I would just weld up a new one. All the parts/flanges are available as stock items. I like SS but plain steel would work just fine. All in would cost me less than $100. But, a good welder has to make a living so factor that in (supposing you dont weld).
 
Replacement pieces from National Marine Exhaust.









Clearly visible in the last pic is the soot from my battles with leaking exhaust. Hopefully done with that after the last gasket was replaced. Pic #1 & 3 show a flange that appears to have been salvaged from the old riser. I don't know why it was used.
 
Sorry for dropping off the map, but work has gotten crazy busy.

Kulas, I am going to build my own. Have a new set (2) of stainless flanges with a shim gasket. 1 for the old stainless wet riser which will have to be cut and welded anyway, the 2nd for the outlet side of the 90% short radius elbow. This way the match perfectly.

I just today was able to get the old flange off the turbo. What a chore after 30 years of use!. 1 nut came off reasonably easy, 1 nut had to be cut with a hacksaw and the last 2 has to use a chisel. Now, need to find the turbo flange. Old one not serviceable nor any part of the assembly. It is square, 4 bolt type, 3" tube and the mounting holes, if measured diagonally (between 2 mounting holes) measure 4 3/4".

What I found curious was the system is made of 3" tube, but the exhaust port on the turbo is quite small. Not able to measure today, but guessing just over 2-1/4" diameter. The steel shim gasket was 3" and the size difference left a large carbon ring between the gaskets 3" diameter and the turbo housing.

If anyone has a lead on the 4 bolt flange, let me know. I have a few emails out to turbo exhaust companies for assistance.
 
Kulas44, Where did you, or where did you find the new flange that bolts onto the turbo? I have scoured the internet and cannot find one large enough. If I measure diagonally, between 2 holes, the spacing is 4 3/4". The spacing bewteew the 2 closest holes is 3 3/8". 3" center outlet.
If I cannot locate one, I will have to have one made.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom