I am impressed with this product

Tom.B said:

Having steel as a backing material to heat off polymers is one thing, I am NOT going to try that with gelcoat and fiberglass!

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You may have missed the part about the car being a FIBERGLASS corvette.

Dang I hope it wasn't a mistake to use this stuff. I only did the strip and leave it at that.

what_barnacles said:

You may have missed the part about the car being a FIBERGLASS corvette.

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Aaaaaaannnnddd... You would be correct. ;-) Still ain't gonna try it though... Well, maybe in a very hidden spot... On someone else's boat. :-D

We used Red Max on our motorhome, lasts about 3 years. I feel it is so much easier than waxing yearly. Gives a good shine and it comes off easy with the floor stripper. Have to be careful on painted surfaces b/c you can pull paint off with it. I am considering doing the boat with it myself as we live under a boat shed. Just make sure the surface is clean prior to application. Makes it look like wet paint. Those pics of the Psoriasis is what it starts to look like at the 3 year point. Floor stripper soak and a pressure washer would remove that pretty quick.

I used it for several years on my previous 1981 Catalina sailboat per the manufacturers instructions. Like the original poster I was very happy with the initial results. After about 3 seasons, it did start to build-up and yellow in areas. I used a floor stripper to remove it all and went back to wax. I thought about staying with the product but in the end concluded the work was equivalent to traditional cleaners and wax methods if you consider removal is necessary periodically. Cheers

Tom.B said:

Aaaaaaannnnddd... You would be correct. ;-) Still ain't gonna try it though... Well, maybe in a very hidden spot... On someone else's boat. :-D

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Hey... Why you lookin at my boat like that????

I have a hard time believing someone would use floor polish (made for indoor tile or vinyl flooring) on the exterior gelcoat of a boat.


For me, the easiest way to get a good shine and protective coating on my boat's hull is to pay someone to do it.

WesK said:

I have a hard time believing someone would use floor polish (made for indoor tile or vinyl flooring) on the exterior gelcoat of a boat.

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Not hard at all $1500+ (for big boat) to pay someone, verses $40 - $50 to do it yourself with a product that claims that "you can do it"...

Zep actually does a good job and comes close to a clear coat shine. Assuming of course you dont pull the product accidentally as you are putting it on because you let the applicator run thin and start to dry... But it like all acrylics seem to let go of their adhesion after a while and start to flake off. So repeated stripping and reapplication is the mantra. Not a lot worse than a poorly shot clear coat.

Nufinish can also bring out really good results and has a better shine than zep as long as you let it sit on the gelcoat/paint overnight before buffing it off. It finally wears down from washings and strong detergents. But it can last for several years.

color back could actually pull the deep color of gelcoat back without massive buffing but it's hard to find anymore. Guess they made their money.

And of course a good sanding and shoot of clearcoat last and look the best. At least until you scrape the dock.

And if you're a purist... The real deal.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Wx-mrFSlcc

"The only product I will ever use on fiberglass is one from the Collinite Auto, Marine and Industrial Wax Products Official Site » Collinite range of products the fiberglass wax is fantastic."

This is some good stuff if you haven't tried it.

dimer2 said:

"The only product I will ever use on fiberglass is one from the Collinite Auto, Marine and Industrial Wax Products Official Site » Collinite range of products the fiberglass wax is fantastic."

This is some good stuff if you haven't tried it.

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It is good but seemed hard to get the wax off when I used it. Maybe I was doing it wrong.

Dude, when have you ever done anything wrong!

On a friend's recommendation, to eliminate the yellow stain, after using toilet bowl cleaner to get the white back, I applied Mop-n-glow. What a disaster! that was about 15 years ago. There are still places where the stuff just wont go away, now dull and grey. Elsewhere, I have had great success with Colinite Boat Cleaner and wax. I used it on the house, where your eye gets much closer, so the finish has to look better, about 5 years ago, and it still looks good. Having the boat in a shelter is key.

koliver said:

On a friend's recommendation, to eliminate the yellow stain, after using toilet bowl cleaner to get the white back, I applied Mop-n-glow. What a disaster! that was about 15 years ago. There are still places where the stuff just wont go away, now dull and grey. Elsewhere, I have had great success with Colinite Boat Cleaner and wax. I used it on the house, where your eye gets much closer, so the finish has to look better, about 5 years ago, and it still looks good. Having the boat in a shelter is key.

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Is it ever!

what_barnacles said:

Not hard at all $1500+ (for big boat) to pay someone, verses $40 - $50 to do it yourself with a product that claims that "you can do it"................

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If the boat is big enough that a pro is going to charge $1500+ to compound and wax it, materials are going to be far more than $50. The difference between the total cost and the materials cost is the labor. Lots of back breaking labor over a few days.

The correct way to bring back and protect a boat's finish is to wax it along with compounding or wet sanding if necessary. It's not easy work by any means.

"Miracle cures" may look good for a while but when they fail, they are big trouble. When boat wax fails, you just re-wax and all is good again.

$50 of floor wax will shine a fllet of boats.

what_barnacles said:

$50 of floor wax will shine a fllet of boats.

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Perhaps, but floor wax in inappropriate for boat hulls. Interior floors perhaps, but not hulls. Where is the UV protection? What about salt water?

Once the boat is shiny via compounding, wet sanding, or merely needing Finesse-It: Rejex, I'm telling you boys, Rejex. Proven by years of east coast salt water cruising then years in the tannin-rich waters of eastern North Carolina.

caltexflanc said:

Once the boat is shiny via compounding, wet sanding, or merely needing Finesse-It: Rejex, I'm telling you boys, Rejex. Proven by years of east coast salt water cruising then years in the tannin-rich waters of eastern North Carolina.

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George - I read the stats on their site; sounds good. Emailed to find how I can get some in Nor CA.

Thanks for posting about Rejex. - Art

caltexflanc said:

Once the boat is shiny via compounding, wet sanding, or merely needing Finesse-It: Rejex, I'm telling you boys, Rejex. Proven by years of east coast salt water cruising then years in the tannin-rich waters of eastern North Carolina.

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I used that stuff on my RV specifically the front cab-over and it was an OK product. After taking a beating in the rain it was like any other wax, it washed off.......

My experiment here is just on the black strip and if it doesn't work, so be it. I will report the results here after a year of use. Right now it looks really good.

Tom.B said:

Having steel as a backing material to heat off polymers is one thing, I am NOT going to try that with gelcoat and fiberglass!

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Fraid for once I agree with What Barnacles on this one. I was helping a friend paint a sport fisher hull. Some knuckle head used Rustoleum on it. Clogged the sanding pads at an alarming rate. Took a heat gun and a putty knife and off she came.

Now we did not try to burn through the hull, just enough to wrinkle the paint.

Alaskan Sea-Duction said:

I used that stuff on my RV specifically the front cab-over and it was an OK product. After taking a beating in the rain it was like any other wax, it washed off.......

My experiment here is just on the black strip and if it doesn't work, so be it. I will report the results here after a year of use. Right now it looks really good.

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I've 16 oz canister of Rejax coming. Going to try it in small spots on trucks, cars, boats... wait till about this time next year and review. I read the stats and posted claims... worth a try!

Xsbank said:

I'm with you, Al. Once upon a time when I first bought her, I actually thought I would polish my boat...ha!

Life's too short, besides, I'm kinda fond of the patina now.

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My kind of owner! Too bad we don't dock next to each other!

cardude01 said:

It is good but seemed hard to get the wax off when I used it. Maybe I was doing it wrong.

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If you were using their paste wax you may have been.

Unlike most waxes you need to buff off Collinite paste wax before it fully drys to dust or its a PITA to wipe/buff off.

I stopped using true waxes a long time ago. There are just to many good polymer sealants out now that do everything better than wax.

Capt.Bill11 said:

If you were using their paste wax you may have been.

Unlike most waxes you need to buff off Collinite paste wax before it fully drys to dust or its a PITA to wipe/buff off.

I stopped using true waxes a long time ago. There are just to many good polymer sealants out now that do everything better than wax.

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Bill - Would you like to list some? I just ordered Rejax.

This will be first I've used polymer shine product. Plan to test in areas and wait some number of months (one year??) to see outcome, before going whole hog into big shine up with polymers.

Rejex is one of them.

Zaino and Sea Shield are a couple others.

Capt.Bill11 said:

Rejex is one of them.

Zaino and Sea Shield are a couple others.

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Bill - Thanks for product names You have a favorite? - Art

I like multible coats of Zaino. Which is very easy to apply. And Sae Shield exhaust guard. Both are very good if you have a soot issue on or around your transom. The soot comes off with plain boat soap in most cases.

And it's much easier to clean off the black streaks you get after a rain in many areas as wells. The streaks don't cling to the polymers they way they do to a true wax finish.

The same holds true for Rejex. I just haven't used it as much.

Any of these works best and last longest if the surface is prepared properly before hand of course. Clean and smooth is the key to get the best results. Just as it is with a wax finish.

Capt.Bill11 said:

I like multible coats of Zaino. Which is very easy to apply. And Sae Shield exhaust guard. Both are very good if you have a soot issue on or around your transom. The soot comes off with plain boat soap in most cases.

And it's much easier to clean off the black streaks you get after a rain in many areas as wells. The streaks don't cling to the polymers they way they do to a true wax finish.

The same holds true for Rejex. I just haven't used it as much.

Any of these works best and last longest if the surface is prepared properly before hand of course. Clean and smooth is the key to get the best results. Just as it is with a wax finish.

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Thanks! Bill

I've had great results with Zaino on all our vehicles, as well as the ski boat.
Tried a whole lot of products over the years, and I've stuck with this one for at least 10 years now.

As Capt.Bill11 mentioned, a properly prepared/cleaned surface goes a long way for easier application and longer lasting protection.

**FOLLOW-UP**

I just wanted to provide an update to the pictures I posted of the Nu Glass on our boat.

This past weekend, I spend about 6 hours removing it via wet-sanding by hand the side of the flying bridge. I stepped from 800 grit to 1200 grit to 2000 grit. It actually took two passes because I missed a lot of spots, so the 5-6 hours will be shorter next time for the same amount of coverage. There is a learning curve to get up for sure and it is a pretty messy job. After that, two passes with light rubbing compound using my Milwaukee power buffer. I still need to make a pass or two with polishing compound and a final wax, but I am pretty happy with the results. I could just about leave it like this and call it done. So realistically... in just 10-20 years, I should have the entire boat done

Just wanted to share.