Preventing rubber hoses from sticking to metal nipples

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sdowney717

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Joined
Jan 26, 2016
Messages
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Location
United States
Vessel Name
Old Glory
Vessel Make
1970 Egg Harbor 37 extended salon model
IT is just like glue how hard they stick.
I have been wondering is there a hose grease?
Or can the metal be coated with something?
 
A heat gun should help


Sent from my iPhone using Trawler Forum
 
I always considered a good seal important. Any rubber compatible grease may ease removing of hose often removed but is it a good idea?.
 
I pulled a soldered copper hose fitting out of my heat exchanger, had to resolder back in. The rubber hose was just not coming off. Afterwards, I was able to use a small screwdriver to free hose. It may also have not been well soldered, but now it is better than OEM did it.

To most,maybe you will cut the hose. I took the chance knowing I can fix what ever I break, and was fun to resolder it back on.
Hose is still in good shape, so will reuse it.
Another bad stuck hoses are where they connect to risers. Those hoses are expensive!
Getting one off with prying I slightly ripped the hose end.
I have found what helps is disconnect riser and twist it.
I think some silicon grease there is also good idea.

Both that and the coolant system (7 psi) are very low pressure.
 
Last edited:
My diesel mechanic uses Rector Seal #5 to lube hoses and allow for easy removal
 
sdowney717 said:
IT is just like glue how hard they stick.
I have been wondering is there a hose grease?
Click to expand...

Yes. Auto parts stores sell it (hose grease or hose lubricant). West Marine sells it as well. It makes the hose go on easier and come off easier when necessary. It doesn't attack rubber as soaps and other substitutes might do. I've been using it for many years.
 
Been using teflon tap for many years and had very good results even when the rubber has near melted .
 
I looked at RectorSeal, comes in hardening, slow hardening, non hardening teflon paste.
I decided to use the Teflon non hardening white paste. The hardening varieties all had a strong solvent odor to them. Did not like the idea of rubber and that solvent on them.

RectorSeal seems to work very well, hoses slip on easily, the clamp secures them tightly. Idea I hope is the rubber wont glue itself to the metal.
 
I use Rectorseal #5 and have done so for 5 years or more. [recommended bySeaboard Marine] Makes the difference between an absolute h++l of a fight and hose damage or a mild bit of work. The stuff does not harden but will stiffen.
It also keeps the typical salt creep down.

I strongly suggest you DO NOT use silicone grease in this application. I tried that years ago and the hose slid off even when well clamped. There is such a thing as too slippery. The hose needs to be able to some grip on the nipple.
 
I always figured the sticking was an extra seal.

With a proper hose removal tool it is only seconds to unstick a hose.
 
I used Rectorseal T plus 2.
I will report back if any hoses pop off or leak :)

It grips real strong to the pipe after clamping, I can not twist or pull the hoses off.
I actually used my finger and the brush to smear it inside the hoses and fittings.
It wipes off easily, easy cleanup.
 
Tunajoe said:
My diesel mechanic uses Rector Seal #5 to lube hoses and allow for easy removal
Click to expand...

Right on the rector seal can, it says it will break down rubber. So I dont use it on hoses. I prefer just a scosh of white lithium grease.
 
Tunajoe said:
Interesting.
I looked all over Rectorseal' website and couldn't find anything regarding this.
I don't doubt you, I just couldn't find anything that says that.
http://resource.gemaire.com/is/cont...roduct_1382985277540_en_datasheet.pdf?fmt=pdf
Click to expand...

Good question, maybe some rubber hoses not all hoses since some have success.

I tell you, at the store I opened all of them, many had strong solvent odors.
The T plus 2 white is odor free, no solvents. My thinking at the time without reading anything about hose break down, did I really want a strong solvent on the rubber hose, so I said no, and went with T plus 2 with fibers and PTFE.
I have been running my new rebuilt engine with every hose and fitting smeared with it, and nothing leaked, and no hoses fell off. On this old engine, many fitting are plain bronze pipe or Nibco copper threaded fitting mean to be solder with 3/4 copper pipes. And they have no elevated hose retention ring meant to keep a clamp and hose from slipping off under pressure, maybe half have and half don't. The coolant system is only pressurized to 7 PSI. And the raw water is whatever a Jabsco impeller can make PSI I think would be low, and of course it flows freely without a restriction, so not a PSI issue for that.
 
Last edited:
Tunajoe said:
Interesting.
I looked all over Rectorseal' website and couldn't find anything regarding this.
I don't doubt you, I just couldn't find anything that says that.
http://resource.gemaire.com/is/cont...roduct_1382985277540_en_datasheet.pdf?fmt=pdf
Click to expand...

This exact issue (rubber and rectorseal) came up about 10 years ago for a government customer we have. Since then we dont use it much anymore. Regardless, I know one of my guys probably has a can of it and I'll see what is on the can.
 
bligh said:
This exact issue (rubber and rectorseal) came up about 10 years ago for a government customer we have. Since then we dont use it much anymore. Regardless, I know one of my guys probably has a can of it and I'll see what is on the can.
Click to expand...

I believe you Bligh, especially since this is the stuff you deal with on a daily basis.
Going forward, I'll just use the lithium grease as I have some of that too.
Anything will help. I destroyed the last raw water hose I had to remove.
 
Tunajoe said:
I believe you Bligh, especially since this is the stuff you deal with on a daily basis.
Going forward, I'll just use the lithium grease as I have some of that too.
Anything will help. I destroyed the last raw water hose I had to remove.
Click to expand...

Or, you could use hose grease. See my post above.
 
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