Inverter

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"There is no way a DC compressor can be as efficient."

DC is far more efficient ,the AC unit just switches on, runs at a different load , (warm box , cold box ) till the thermostat is satisfied.No attempt to match the running RPM to the coolant load can be made.

The DC units computer will match the cooling requirements , compressor RPM , to the actual box loads.

The very slow operation of the unit most of the time , just maintaining box temperature is Very efficient.

PBB had a great article a year or two back that goes into depth on the many advantages.

And they did not even bother with the 10% inverter loss from an AC unit on DC.
 
That is the first I have heard of that problem. Questions: Did you try and run the washer just on the inverter? Does your inverter have a maximum 110v draw setting (maximum power it will take from shore or the genset)? If so at what level is it set? Unintentionally we set our maximum draw too low one time and the bypass was unable to power the tea pot.

Yes, it was a real head scratcher. It's been several years now, so I'm going off memory which is dangerous but.... I think the kicker was that the washer wasn't even wired to the inverter. The inverter powered a select set of circuits, and the washer was not one of them. So washer load and inverter capacity never interacted with one another. They were just side by side loads on the same shore or gen power source. So it could only be electrical noise (radiated or conducted) that was tricking the washer. And the washer failure mode was very odd too. When you first start it, it goes through a short cycle to be sure the drum is pumped dry. It would remain stuck in that cycle until it errorred out. The error code said the drum was both empty and full at the same time, so some sort of sensor malfunction. Turn off the inverter (remember, it's just a side by side load, like running the TV at the same time), and the washer would work fine. I replaced all the relevant parts as my expense and to no avail. I also experimented with ferrites on the power cord, but no joy.

My final conclusion was that without a scope I would never figure it out, and I had long ago thrown away my 100 lb, tube-powered Tektronics scope.

I have encountered two other similar problems, but these are sensitivities to running on a generator. One was the electronic igniter (the spark spark spark lighter) on a gas stove. It would not go click click click when the house was running on the generator. Definitely not a load problem since the clicker draws only a tiny amount of power. It cause quite the surprise on Thanksgiving when we discovered the oven had not relit in the past 3 hours and the turkey was still raw....

I've got another such issue currently with a modern gas boiler. It's a Buderus modulated super efficient burner that heats my barn/shop. When my generator is running, it errors out. It lights, but the flame detect circuit doesn't agree and it shuts down. After a few attempts it locks out and requires a manual reset - something that does not go well with unattended operation. I ended up building a lockout circuit to keep the boiler from firing when the generator is running. The shop building is super insulated with lots of thermal mass, so the temp only drops a degree or two over an 8hr generator run, so it works OK.

One irony here is that I've had much better success running devices off inverters than off generators. I don't think I've found anything that doesn't work off a sine wave inverter, where I have a handful that don't work off of generators.
 
It appears I opened a hornet nest on this one. Thanks everyone for your input. I will continue my research with all your information as I move forward.
Coming from a sailboat for over 40 years, to our motor yacht / trawler will be a new adventure and education for us
Thank you
Henry & Linda
M/V Linda Lee
Ft Myers Fl
 
If a device does not function on a typical generator when it should, then I suspect the speed of the gen is too high or low since the frequency of AC power is determined by rotating gen rpm. So maybe the gen is not close to 60 cycles.
 
If a device does not function on a typical generator when it should, then I suspect the speed of the gen is too high or low since the frequency of AC power is determined by rotating gen rpm. So maybe the gen is not close to 60 cycles.

True, but as accurately as I can measure it, it's dead nuts on. Now that might not be exact enough for the burner control, but I can't make it any closer....
 
It appears I opened a hornet nest on this one. Thanks everyone for your input. I will continue my research with all your information as I move forward.
Coming from a sailboat for over 40 years, to our motor yacht / trawler will be a new adventure and education for us
Thank you
Henry & Linda
M/V Linda Lee
Ft Myers Fl

If all you want to do is power your fridge there is no need to get an expensive inverter/charger. Just find out the starting load for your fridge and get a simple, basic inverter that covers that load.
 
"If all you want to do is power your fridge there is no need to get an expensive inverter/charger. Just find out the starting load for your fridge and get a simple, basic inverter that covers that load."

Just so, $100 should do it.
 
(For those having problems with the Magnum charger not playing with the Splendide washer, this may be a solution. No personal experience.
mv.VikingStar: Summary and Conclusion: Compatibility Issue Between MS2000 inverter and Splendide 2100XC Washer/Dryer)

That should work to take care of the washer problem on a Magnum - like it says, be sure to get a Run Cap vs Starter Cap (capacitor). I have installed Start Caps on older land based A/C condensers, in my rental units, that have a hard time getting going - gives them a bit longer life. Wow, wonder if something like that will work for us old TF's? :rofl::rofl::hide:
 

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