Epsom Salt

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RT Firefly

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Greetings,
One of the two batteries on the small boat shows a very low (dead?) cell when tested with a hydrometer after a charge. This is not a critical application what-so-ever.

I've seen several videos that claim that the use of Epsom Salts will rejuvenate (?) de-sulphate (?) a battery for continued use.

Any comments? Thanks.
 
Not heard that, but if the batt is effectively stuffed anyway, why not. Any risk of acid bubbling or spraying out?
I use Epsom salts on gardenia shrubs for soil imbalance. Of course it has another more traditional use.
 
I have tried this several times with no apparent results. If the battery has a dead cell (or a cell that is going dead, it will pull the voltage down in the other cells.
May i suggest one of these
Battery Analyzer
 
During the use of the battery bank some folks find a De Sulphator does work.

Google for info,

Battery desulfator review part one | Living Off the Grid: Free ...

Home | Living Off the Grid: Free Yourselfbattery-desulfator-review/


Nov 20, 2013 - I have been researching ways to desulfate batteries, I am finding most people saying that it's snake oil, that it can't work… some that are saying ...



Inside view of lead acid battery before and after desulfator ...

▶ 2:11

May 3, 2012 - Uploaded by R&TPreppers
Here is a quick video that will show you what the lead plates look like in a typical sulfated lead acid battery and ...



Review :: Battery Desulfator - YouTube

▶ 9:03

Jan 3, 2010 - Uploaded by Tooextrememx
My review on the Infinitum Battery Desulfator. I think this is a must have item if you have anything that uses a ...



Infinitum Desulfator FAQs - Battery Tech Solutions

www.[B]battery[/B]techsolutions.com/#!desulfator-faqs/cvm8




Infinitum Battery Desulfator Frequently Asked Questionss.
 
I used to use it in the batteries of my 1966 VW beetle when I was at Uni, saved the girls having to push start the mighty machine. ( no, not a sexist comment, I was the rather unsuccessful netball coach)

Our motto was 'you don't win silver,you lose gold!' :rolleyes:
 
Ive used it some, like was posted, nothing to lose. About half a teaspoon per cell then vigorous charging, to the point of turning the acid almost white. The battery can get fairly hot during this and off gas a lot. I use a shop charger set on "engine start 250 amp" basically like an equalization voltage. Pull the caps and keep an eye on each cell, if one or more dont bubble the batt is junk. Seems to be about 50/50 on it working, but I do have a group 31 batt on a roll around that we use for jump starts that was totally dead, for awhile. Wouldnt hold a charge at all. Tortured it like posted above and its been working fine for about a year now. YMMV
 
One bad cell is not sulfation or anything else that can be fixed it is a mechanical failure inside.
 
Greetings,
Mr. bay. That's sort of the thought I was leaning towards. Bent plate? Shorted from sloughed off material at the bottom? Piece of refuse (from plate) stuck between plates?

I can't remember, or never knew much about battery chemistry but each cell should contain lead and sulfuric acid. Sulfating occurs, as I understand it, with the formation of lead sulfate coating the active surface thereby hindering electron?/ion? exchange. I'm not sure what part the addition of Epsom Salt (magnesium sulfate) would play in the chemical reaction. I haven't balanced a chemical equation in over 40 years.
 
Greetings,
Mr. bay. Mr. 44 raises an interesting point. I know one of the problems with button cells (hearing aid and car remote batteries for example) is that crystals form between the anode and cathode thus bridging the semi-permeable membrane that separates the two and shorting out the cell. One can sometimes burn the short (the crystals) off by momentarily applying a high DC voltage thus renewing the capacity of the cell to generate electricity.

Problem is, I don't have a charger with a start/boost function...
 
RTF
I have had good luck w/ Battery Minders

I have had lo V situations where I charged the Batt as much as it would take measured V then ran it on the Batty Minder for days / wks and re tested and found V was indeed higher than I got w/ chargers alone.

Desulfation Review might also be of interest
 
The typical failure for modern batteries seems to be the single cell failure you observed. Long ago batteries just became less able to accept charge, essentially lower in capacity.


Today the single cell failure seems to predominate. A big problem with this is the common use of batteries in parallel. This results in a 10.5V battery in parallel with a 12V battery causing large currents into the bad battery resulting in boiling acid, and other exciting happenings.
 
Appreciate your posts RTF..
 
Aust. chandlery chain "Whitworths" sell "Inox Battery Conditioner", 92ml $8.99, 1L $49.90. No idea what`s in it, I used it on 2 conventional flooded batts which hydrometer tested just ok, one lasted a year, the other, which was newer, 3years. Did the product contribute? The answer to that is about as clear as the "before and after" vid above.
If it`s just dissolved epsom salts, someone is on a nice earner.
 
If you mess with the battery with chemicals and high charge rate wear eye protection-keep area well ventilated- watch the heat and you do know those square things do occasionally pump out stuff that can go BANG. My take is it worth the effort? Considering the many coasts of boating a new AGM is not a big deal over its 6-7 year life span.
 
Greetings,
Mr. e. Thanks for the safety reminder which SHOULD be a reminder to ALL members to take appropriate precautions when doing ANYTHING aboard.

I'm not going to invest in diagnostic/repair equipment for this minor task although I have bookmarked suggested apparati in the "boat" file-Thanks all. Mr. e. You're correct. For this one battery, it probably isn't worth too much effort or risk to save a few $$. My sole purpose in asking was simple interest as I DO have an ill battery and Epsom Salts are cheap.
Off to the battery store in the spring ie expect. Thanks again all.

(Holy crap. Nobody mentioned anchors....Must be a first in the history of TF.)
 
Thanks RTF, for the INOX research. The safety warnings are a worry,but on balance I do think the stuff helped, and 1L costs than one sixth the cost of a new 8D/200Ah batt and will treat 2 batteries. Obviously it won`t help if the battery has a dead cell or similar fault.
Irrelevantly, as to the "other use" of Epsom Salts, salmonella has been found here in pre-washed packaged ready to use salad leaves sold all over the eastern states and is giving many people a fair imitation of the effect of Epsom Salts.
 
Mr RT-just to maintain tradition-

1. Find a nice spot to anchor out;
2. Attach battery to anchor;
3. Throw overboard;
4. Retrieve anchor, leave battery;
5. Buy new battery.

Now, to appease the green crowd-do not really do this, leaving your battery on the bottom is not a nice thing to do!
 
We now have a Ctek M300 battery charger hard wired on the boat it has a reconditioning mode which brought back 2 of the 3 old dead 120amp deep cycle batteries .We kept the 2 old batteries that took a charge and used them on a separate fridge system with solar panel they still keep 13.5v after 3 months .
 
We now have a Ctek M300 battery charger hard wired on the boat it has a reconditioning mode which brought back 2 of the 3 old dead 120amp deep cycle batteries .. .
Good to hear it works. I think they pulsate the charge to literally shake the sulphation off the plates back into solution. Is that right?
 
Good to hear it works. I think they pulsate the charge to literally shake the sulphation off the plates back into solution. Is that right?

That's also my understanding it was recommenced to me by a excellent boat electrician here on the marina
 
Greetings,
Mr. sdm. Thanks. I got as far as 11:22 and couldn't take it any more. I'll watch the rest at a later date. Timer, rectifier and capacitor I think I can handle.
 
Greetings,
Mr. sdm. Thanks. I got as far as 11:22 and couldn't take it any more. I'll watch the rest at a later date. Timer, rectifier and capacitor I think I can handle.

RT - I went through the whole thang in 60 seconds by moving the courser along to "spots". OMG - Buy New Batts!!! :facepalm:
 
I did build one of these. It helps if the battery is only partially depleted. I used it on a marine battery. Before the process my conductance meter said it had 60% life left. This was after a partial discharge. I then put it on this charger for 4 hours. let it sit for an hour, and the life left showed 75%. It works by pulsing the voltage as mentioned before. I then put the battery on the battery tender. Happy with the results. I may try it again this weekend to see if it will bring the life up a bit more.
 
Ok, Ok - I'll admit that I have done an operation that has somewhat restored electricity holding power and for a relatively short time elongated the life in a few wet-cell truck batts.

By, taking my big charger and hitting the batt with high voltage start-amps repetitively.

First leave start-amps on for about 30 seconds to get batt plates to wake up (i.e. good n' hot)! Then switch it off for about a minute. Then hit it with about 30 consecutive jolts of start-amps for about 5 seconds each with 10 to 15 second rest times between each 5 second start-amp surge. BUT - be careful - the old batt has potential to explode while doing this operation. I hook it up to charger in gravel field where fire is not possible and stand some 50 or more feet away to plug/unplug the extension cord.

In 1960's I was instructed to do this by an old gas station mechanic/owner. I've found from doing so that some (but not all) virtually dead batts can still become usable for less than a year. Is it worth the trouble... well yes, maybe, in an easy to access Batt area of a road vehicle... if you feel like trying your best to keep a worn out ol' batt alive for a while longer. Otherwise - bite the bullet and purchase new.

As far as marine batts - NO - I will not bother doing this at all! Way too much trouble hauling batts out, taking to safe place to perform start-amp surge process and then to put back into boat... for limited time before the batt says F-it and really quits for good. IMO, much easier, safer, and more pleasing to simply purchase and install new wet-cell marine batts that can last up to 10 + years if charged and otherwise maintained correctly!

Happy Batt-Doings daze! - Art :thumb:
 
Desulfation units usually pulse a higher voltage .

Many solar controllers will offer an "equalizing" charge option.

They are not the same.

Battery Desulfation Tutorial | ChargingChargers.com

Equalizing - Trojan Battery Company

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Equalizing is an overcharge performed on flooded lead acid batteries after they have been fully charged. It reverses the buildup of negative chemical effects like ...



Equalizing Charge For Stationary Batteries – Battery ...

batteryuniversity.com/learn/article/equalizing_charge




Battery University


Oct 23, 2015 - Experts recommend equalizing services once a month to once or twice per year. A better method is to apply a fully saturated charge and then compare the specific gravity readings (SG) on the individual cells of a flooded lead acid battery
 
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