What To Use On Deck Rust Spots

Can anyone recommend a product to remove rust spots that form on the gel coat deck?
I have used Star Brite "Rust Stain Remover" by dipping a Q Tip into the solution and placing it on the spot to soak. It does remove most of the rust spot after some time but is there a better product available?

Try oxalic acid or Bar Keepers Friend. Bar Keepers is similar to Soft Scrub but has an acid in it so don't get too aggressive.

Edit: Both are probably pretty similar to the Star Bright product.

A better product? Probably not. Most acid products will remove rust stains but the trick is to have the correct acid strength but no more.


Hull cleaner is acid and will work as well. I had some rust I wanted to remove but my hull cleaner was at home. I had a container of "Spotless Stainless" (used to remove fust from stainless steel). It did the trick on the rust on my gelcoat.

have had luck with Iron Out.... usually sold right next to CLR type cleaners if you haven't heard of it.

This stuff has worked well for me. Strong though-- I only use it for small rust "dots". I just dab a tiny but on with a small brush, wipe it off with a paper towel and then rinse with water.

This is what's in it. Sheesh. No wonder it works. Lots of acids.

cardude01 said:

This is what's in it. Sheesh. No wonder it works. Lots of acids.

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That's more variety of acid than a Grateful Dead concert!

rardoin said:

that's more variety of acid than a grateful dead concert!:d

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lol

This has worked well for me. I also use it to remove the mustache on the bow. I cut it half and half with water. I think it would still work well if it was diluted twice that. Wipe on wait a few minutes for this to disappear, then rinse. No scrubbing. Its the same deal, acids.

My favorite product for removing rust stains is Whink. The active ingredient is hydrofloric acid.
Rust Stain Remover | Rust Stain | Whink Products Company - America's #1 Specialty Cleaner Company, Eldora, IA

I recently bought a couple pounds of oxalic acid in powdered form on ebay for about $10. Used it yesterday at 1/4 cup per one gallon in a 1 gallon hand-pump lawn sprayer. It cleared the hull of the tannin stains and cleared the light rust from my ER vents. Next, I'll use it to remove the rust stains on some SS rails and rust spots on the decking from some metal cutting onboard during the summer that, in hindsight, was a bad idea!

Oh Al, I'm so disappointed in you. Cutting metal on board, the shame. Next you'll tell us you have steel wool on the boat.

I use FSR. Works great on decks and stainless. Follow the directions.



Amazon.com: Davis Instruments FSR Fiberglass Stain Remover (16-Ounce): Sports & Outdoors

Spotless Stainless works for me very well...

…and rust spots on the decking from some metal cutting onboard during the summer that, in hindsight, was a bad idea! [/QUOTE]

Been there done that Al. I also used oxalic acid. I've heard that lemon juice will work as well but have not tried it.

Rob

HopCar said:

Oh Al, I'm so disappointed in you. Cutting metal on board, the shame. Next you'll tell us you have steel wool on the boat.

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Bless me Fr, for I have sinned! It's been 6 months since my last metal grindings onboard. Hey, it seemed like a good idea at the time. I was at anchor and needed 4 pipes shortened by 6 inches to complete the floor support jack installation. So I broke out the tools and finished the work. Now, 6 months later, I still have not finished the clean up!

Tolly Roger said:

I use FSR. Works great on decks and stainless. Follow the directions.
[

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I forgot I have some of that onboard. I've used it on rust stain drips from my ER vents. Works great.

Datenight said:

…and rust spots on the decking from some metal cutting onboard during the summer that, in hindsight, was a bad idea!

Been there done that Al. I also used oxalic acid. I've heard that lemon juice will work as well but have not tried it.

Rob

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Now that I've got a 10 year supply of oxalic acid, I'll be looking for new uses for this stuff!

I second the vote for Wink (spelled Whink above)
Available at any supermarket for use on rust stains on clothing.

Well on my steel boat I use a grinder with a wire wheel on the rust spots. Treat with phosphoric acid and then epoxy. I am not sure it will work as well on your fiberglass boat. So YMMV as they say.

All my rust spots are from some drilling I did on some metal pipe on board. I didn't know! I don't know ****! ?

Dude, we've all done it, once. You won't do it again. In case nobody told you, never bring steel wool on a boat. If you really need to scrub something, buy bronze wool from your neighborhood marine store.

If the spots are small, try a magic eraser. I have pretty good success with them.

HopCar said:

My favorite product for removing rust stains is Whink. The active ingredient is hydrofloric acid.

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HopCar

Your comment re: HF caught my eye... I've had some dealings w/ HF and couldn't believe it was an ingredient of Whink
Thought maybe it was Hydrochloric but the MSDS doesn't include that...???

Hydrogen fluoride gas is an acute poison that may immediately and permanently damage lungs and the corneas of the eyes.
Aqueous hydrofluoric acid is a contact-poison with the potential for deep, initially painless burns and ensuing tissue death.

FlyWright said:

Now, 6 months later, I still have not finished the clean up!!

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As a guy who will have a boat within the next year and will do all the mods and maintenance can I ask how you do go about grinding or cutting metal on a boat... any tips???

HopCar said:

Dude, we've all done it, once. You won't do it again. In case nobody told you, never bring steel wool on a boat. If you really need to scrub something, buy bronze wool from your neighborhood marine store.

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Can I ask why, what happens with it....??

I've been reading everything I can about boat upkeep but you never see tips like this one for us newbies... anyone know of a thread or list of useful do's and don'ts when working on boats....???

Thanks

Bacchus, I could have sworn that hydrofloric acid was in Whink. I wonder if they changed the formula? I'll see if I have an old bottle kicking around.

Pete, steel wool sheds small slivers of steel when you use it. They quickly turn into rust stains.

Greetings,
Mr. H. Most if not all metals outside of your ER are non ferrous. The only ferrous ones outside the ER I can immediately think of are anchors (nope I did NOT say the "a" word) and chain rode.
IF it becomes necessary to work on ferrous metals (cutting/grinding) do so off the boat if at all possible. Regarding another "tip" and it's MY opinion here...NEVER use RTV silicone sealant or ANY silicone product aboard.

HopCar said:

Pete, steel wool sheds small slivers of steel when you use it. They quickly turn into rust stains.

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I guessed something similar, just wanted to make sure....Thanks

RT Firefly said:

Regarding another "tip" and it's MY opinion here...NEVER use RTV silicone sealant or ANY silicone product aboard.

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Why not my friend...?? and what do I used instead, Sikaflex??

I don't permit silicone on my boat.
Each boat I have owned has been treated by its PO to silicone used as a sealant. It goes on easily, cleans up easily looks good for a short while, then lifts from whatever surface you NEED it to adhere to, but not completely. It then allows water to enter the very crevice or opening you wanted to seal, and through capillary action, encourages the water to remain, doing as much damage or more than you ever thought possible. hen it is almost impossible to get it all off, so that a true sealant can be used.

For applications requiring a clear sealant, I now use Lexel. For opaque, Sikaflex or 3M.