are all exhaust hose brands created equal?

The guy that surveyed my 135 hp Fords said I needed to replace both the 3.5" exhaust hoses. I think I'm going to need 42' of this stuff. Can I just go to NAPA and grab some hose, or do I need a special marine exhaust hose?

Nope, you want to get something labeled Marine Exhaust hose. Unless you are self insured that is. And feeling lucky. The good news is most NAPAs along the coast can get it for you at good prices. Still, expensive stuff. My Hatteras maybe has 10 feet in total, sounds like weird design of you need 42.

Trident is a good brand name for hose. I'm with George, forty two feet sounds like a lot.

I'd get a second opinion unless the reason is very obvious as to why they needed replacing.

If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.

Insequent said:

If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.

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...created EQUALLY......as you were!

baker said:

...created equally......as you were!

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????

Insequent said:

If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.

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The fiberglass tubing and whatever you glue it together (if needed) with also need to be exhaust rated. I went through all this when I had to replace the tubes going into the mufflers due to some PO over-tightening the hose clamps. Speaking of which, be sure to get some "crush rings" for the ends of the tubing so you don't end up with the same issue.

Might be worth consulting with one of the exhaust specialists like D'Angelo or Marine Exhaust Systems, who can also sell you the parts.

This is a system that can sink your boat or burn it down. And the hose does age which is likely why the surveyor marked it.

Insequent said:

If you do need to replace then you can use fiberglass tubing for long straight sections after your water injection. Slope down towards the stern. You should then only need a couple of short sections of expensive hose.

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An interesting idea. I'll check to see if that is an option in my boat. Thanks.

caltexflanc said:

The fiberglass tubing and whatever you glue it together (if needed) with also need to be exhaust rated. I went through all this when I had to replace the tubes going into the mufflers due to some PO over-tightening the hose clamps. Speaking of which, be sure to get some "crush rings" for the ends of the tubing so you don't end up with the same issue.

Might be worth consulting with one of the exhaust specialists like D'Angelo or Marine Exhaust Systems, who can also sell you the parts.

This is a system that can sink your boat or burn it down. And the hose does age which is likely why the surveyor marked it.

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Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.

cardude01 said:

Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.

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Nice but not absolutely necessary.

Depends on the ability to get a good seal without more than snuggling up the hose clamp.

If the fiberglass tube is nicely finished a good, leak free might be easy. Especially with smaller tubes.

Larger tubes can have some pretty lumpy finishing.

You might also try Harbor Marine in Everett. All the parts are on the shelf and you can look before you buy.

cardude01 said:

Yikes. Now I wonder if I tightened things too much at the muffler when I replaced my exhaust hose. Didn't know about a crush ring.

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It should just be hand tight. You could loosen it a bit and see if you get any water seeps or exterior blackening.It can take time for the damage to be done. Did you use any properly rated sealant? That helps too. What type of clamps?

I didn't use any sealant. Used a t-bolt hose clamp like this. There was no crush sleeve or sealant evident when I removed the old hose so that's why I didn't think I needed either.

If you are considering the Fiberglass route then check out VERNATUBE. This material is rated for exhaust and extremely uniform in dimension. You "should" use stainless crush sleeves when transitioning from VT to hose and clamp.

Either way, hose or tube for exhaust is going to be pricey.

cardude01 said:

I didn't use any sealant. Used a t-bolt hose clamp like this.

View attachment 46698

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Don't worry, you'll most likely survive just fine without sealant or crush sleeves. Most exhausts are put together without either.

You can always add them at a later date.

Yeah, just back off that thing a tad if you think you overtightened. I just speak from experience, that's all...

In the second pic, to the left of the flange is where the tube went inside the muffler. I ended up replacing both of mine. I ended up being the "later date" guy....

Ok. Thanks.

Interesting, have never heard or, or seen, these crush sleeves you speak of. Might have to retrofit mine if I have to pull it apart again.

Marty.................

MartySchwartz said:

Interesting, have never heard or, or seen, these crush sleeves you speak of. Might have to retrofit mine if I have to pull it apart again.

Marty.................

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They're pretty hard to "see". You may already have them. If not , it isn't a simple matter of sliding them in. They have to be sealed in with high temperature epoxy to prevent crevice corrosion (not shown in these pics). Here's what they look like:

caltexflanc said:

They're pretty hard to "see". You may already have them. If not , it isn't a simple matter of sliding them in. They have to be sealed in with high temperature epoxy to prevent crevice corrosion (not shown in these pics). Here's what they look like:

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Definitely do not have them. Not leaking now but will keep this in mind if I ever do develop a leak.

Marty...............

Survey before purchase on my friend's new "cream puff" 1974 GB42 required replacement of the exhaust hoses. Probably 20 ft each side. $6000 job, as the interior cabinetry had to move to permit the replacement.
NO, I didn't see what was wrong with the hoses. Neither did the purchaser.

"Survey before purchase"

Many surveyors "find" something so the purchaser can beet the owner down for more than the cost of the survey.

The surveyor is actually screwing both parties by this deception.

BEWARE

koliver said:

Survey before purchase on my friend's new "cream puff" 1974 GB42 required replacement of the exhaust hoses. Probably 20 ft each side. $6000 job, as the interior cabinetry had to move to permit the replacement.
NO, I didn't see what was wrong with the hoses. Neither did the purchaser.

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I am in pretty much the same situation as your friend. The surveyor said something like this:
"See that plastic around the exhaust hose? They haven't done that in YEARS. They are probably the original hose installed when the boat was built (Marine Trader, 1987). You need to replace all those hoses."
I'm looking at $1000 worth of hose so I can replace something that looks just fine to me. My twin engines are located amidships, and there is a long run to the exhaust ports on the transom. It all seems like overkill to me, but that is what went on the final survey report, and that is what the insurance company wants done. Yuck.

As long as the hose isn't leaking or break easily when flexed a bit....not sure what the issue is.

I have never seen a "longevity" chart for hose and while critical hoses certainly can benefit from PM, not sure why exhaust hose needs replacing because of "looks".

I have seen hoses recommended by surveyors to be replaced last many years and engine hours past the recommendation.

Looks can be deceiving. Some hose like my sanitation hose looked pristine , still wrapped in plastic, yet I could rip it out with just bare hands. Other nasty looking, burnt exhaust hose or dry, cracked engine hoses were strong and supple enough to last much longer than they thier looks suggested.

I guess it depends if you are "feeling lucky". 28 years is a long time. Hopefully a big item like that was negotiated into the selling price.