Sampson Post & Capstan

Well I guess you just have the wrong anchor Marin*** ...ha ha ha.

I agree w you about the trip line. I may yet get in the habit of using one. I think most are just too lazy to make the effort. Here in Alaska most use the Bruce type anchor and attach the end of the chain to the trip line hole and lash w 1/8" nylon or SS safety wire but in a really hard blow I'd be concerned that the lashing would break and away I'd go drag'in my anchor backwards.
When you tried the retrieving eye would the eye slip over the shank in a dry run? I suspect not as to the increasing width of the shank. They do make a long elliptical retrieval eye. Is that what you had? Or did you just have a round thing or what. If you look at Peter's slotted anchor his slot dosn't wind up in the most beneficial position** ...nor does my slotted Manson. But your Rocna has it's trip line attach in a VERY good position. I had thought of drilling a shackle hole at the same spot but wonder how fast it would rust.

nomadwilly wrote:When you tried the retrieving eye would the eye slip over the shank in a dry run?

Click to expand...

Our retrieval "ring" goes down the Rocna's shank to the point where the shank angles down to the fluke.* But that still puts it more or less above the middle of the fluke, not behind it.* We have a shackle permanently attached to the trip line hole in the top (wide end) of the Rocna's fluke.* A line attached here backs the anchor out very nicely.

A line attached to the trip hole on the Bruce worked very well, too, since the hole is positioned over the back end of the fluke(s).

If you could get enough of an angle on the trip line using the retrieval ring it might work on the Rocna.* Problem is that when you get off at an angle, pulling on the line just pulls the boat up over the anchor and you've haven't solved anything.* I suppose you could back off and add a ton of power but all this starts being more of an effort that simply using a proper trip line from the start.

Retieval ring, I have used one made out of a piece of 1/4" chain about 12" long, ends connected by a shackle. When My "Virgin" 45# Delta got snagged last year I tried for about an hour to dislodge it, no good. As I was going for a hack saw to cut the chain I remembered the tip Charles Culotta had given me years ago about the retrival chain. I looped it around the anchor chain and lowered it to anchor on a piece of 3/8" rope, the anchor chain was vertical. Then I secured the retrieval rope, slacked off on the anchor chain, and drove forward slowly over the anchor and it came loose. This was in about 12' of water.
Thanks Charles!
Steve W.

Steve,
I remember your ( Charles') trick with the chain and made sure I picked up a length at the first marina dumpster that had some.
I broke a trip line on a Bruce and had to cut the chain below a bridge on the TennTom. I suspect trees as I had previously dove in clear water on the same snagged anchor and saw how those side wings would bite into a snag. On reflection, a retrieval hole closer to the base of the flukes might help rotate the flukes out, or, at least give a fairer lead for a backwards pull.
Anchoring in coral in the Pacific, I made up a weighted slider that was tied in the bight of the trip line leading to the buoy. This,with a 50 ft. line, gave me a 25 to 50 ft. Depth range, and worked well. The only anchor I lost on that trip was in High Peak island, where, of course, I hadn't attached the trip line, nor a rode buoy, and the rode chafed thru.
Jon

Few chain stoppers I've seen match the Sampson post for strength.

More builder co$t control, GOOD stoppers are OTS.