rotten exahust outlet

Went to the boat yesterday to do a quick check, found the drip pan under the engine had about 4 inches of water in it. upon looking for a source (with engine running) saw a fairly steady drip from the bottom of the exahust outlet. closer looking showed it to be wasted badly away & the hose split between the 2 crapped out clamps.How much of a fight are those 4 bolts likely to give me and what is a good source for new parts?
Engine is a FL 2715E with aprox 3900 hrs.

Greetings,
Mr. am'. Bummer. American Diesel American Diesel Corp OR Bomac Bomac Marine- Ford Lehman Engines, Parts, Tanks, Phaser Generators and Service Both are reputable firms with knowledgeable staff. There is one type of Lehman elbow on sale currently @ Bomac.

Good thing you caught it now. That's boat-sinking kinda stuff.

Is this leak at the exhaust knuckle on the engine, where the raw water injects just before the start of the flexible part of the exhaust, or where it joins the flange at the transom after the muffler, and exhausts to the outside..?

I think it`s the exhaust elbow off the manifold, note water is collecting in the pan under the engine. Mine leaked, I saw the bolts as requiring some "persuasion' and got the mechanic in. My insurer likes the elbows removed, inspected, cleaned, and refitted every 5 years, not without reason. We patched ours pending new ones arriving, using that 2 part epoxy "plasticine" that can set underwater. Mine came from fredwarner1 on ebay, there are 2 sizes, measure the width of the tube the split hose is clamped onto.

OK, well if it is that part, mine had to be replaced when we found a wear spot on the underside where it was rubbing on the tranny oil cooler beneath it. Discovered when the tranny cooler sprouted a leak at the solder joint and was spraying water around the ER.
Not cheap.

Photos of the offending parts please.

It is the elbow on the engine. This will be my first foray into to e.r. with tools ( other than oil changes and such).Also my first foray into buying parts for that big red beast. Was quoted $260 for the fitting and $20 per ft. for the exhaust hose (3 1/2 in.) from a local shop. Are those prices within bounds or should I shop around more?

Greetings,
Mr. am". Did you check with the companies in post #2. THAT will give you a good idea if the local shop is being reasonable. Just takes 2 phone calls.

RT I have not called Bomac or American Diesel yet,wanted to check localy first,Will call them tommorow and see what they say.

My price list shows the "kit" which includes the elbow, gasket, and new bolts for $140. That's what it cost 3 years ago.

If you're going to call American Diesel and/or Bomac, I'd ask if you can get the elbow in stainless steel. I know you can for the Ford Lehman SP135. You'll pay more but it will last much longer.

Think I'll go with American Diesel, they quoted me $160 for the kit, elbow, gasket & bolts, will call them tommorow with the order. I'll get the hose localy, same price, about $20 per foot.

amdavis said:

Think I'll go with American Diesel, they quoted me $160 for the kit, elbow, gasket & bolts

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Sounds like a good deal.
I`d expect a lack of co-operation from the existing bolts, especially as AD supply new ones in the kit. Maybe the seized bolt removal experts will come in and help, unless you have that part under control.

Give the bolts several good smacks with a heavy hammer before trying to loosen them. And perhaps try tightening them just a bit before you try to break them loose.

amdavis, are you checking the "Freeze Spray" thread on stubborn bolt removal?

He may get lucky and none of the bolts will be stubborn.

Capt.Bill11 said:

He may get lucky and none of the bolts will be stubborn.

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Hope so, but there is a reason (other than selling 4 more bolts) AD makes them part of the kit.

BruceK said:

Hope so, but there is a reason (other than selling 4 more bolts) AD makes them part of the kit.

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Dissimilar metal corrosion. The bolts are from better stock than the cast manifold is.


amdavis, If you break a bolt head off you can do what I did to get the bolt out (freeze spray thread). You'll also need to buy a tap to chase the threads in the manifold to make sure the new bolt doesnt strip the manifold out when you tighten it down. And use plenty of locktite on the new bolts. If the elbow fails again in the distant future plan on getting a manifold too. The threads wont live forever.

Be careful chasing the threads and use plenty of penetrate so you dont ruin them with the tap. They could be next to nothing after you get the bolt out.

I got the old elbow off yesterday, almost painlessly. Sheared off the bottom inboard bottom inboard bolt, leaving about 3/8 in. showing out of manifold. Best idea's on extracting? several people I've talked to say drill & easy-out, just don't break the easy-out The other thing that took me by surprise (but shouldnt have) was all the green coolant dumping out of the exahust manifold into the bilge when I removed the elbow.will be back when I get her buttoned up on tips for type and amount of anti-freeze mix to refill with.

Same bolt as me.

Dont drill it.

The manifold is cooled by coolant, it needs a gasket that seals all the holes up. I have one and will take a pic tomorrow for you.

the elbow has a hose running to it from the heat exchanger. The elbow is raw water cooled.

got the correct elbow today from American Diesel ( all those who have never measured something wrong, raise your hand. Thought so.) my question now is do I need to paint it with a high heat engine paint?

amdavis said:

got the correct elbow today from American Diesel ( all those who have never measured something wrong, raise your hand. Thought so.) my question now is do I need to paint it with a high heat engine paint?

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You don't have to paint it. But I painted them, and other parts, with Ford red that you can get a most auto parts stores.

Assuming your engine is red.

Thanks, Capt Bill, If I do paint, should I mask off where hose clamps & mounting surface?

I painted the entire elbow, excluding the flange facing onto to the manifold, with engine enamel, without undercoat. Before painting I cleaned them with degreaser to ensure a clean surface. The paint job passes the test of time, save for some heat discoloration.

Thanks, I'm thinking a good acetone scrub, then a couple of coats of paint with it sitting mounting face down on my bench

amdavis said:

Thanks, I'm thinking a good acetone scrub, then a couple of coats of paint with it sitting mounting face down on my bench

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Sounds good, the elbow could have an oil coat to prevent rust on the unpainted surface.
Oil coolers I bought (from US) came in grey undercoat,just had to spray them red.

amdavis said:

Thanks, Capt Bill, If I do paint, should I mask off where hose clamps & mounting surface?

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Yes