Show off your Bow/anchor roller setup!

Mark .. Be nice .. but I basically agree w you.

Actually it's a pretty good looking snout compared to most. And the anchor could only be a little closer to the boat. And don't overlook the anchor itself .. better looking than most. Ideally there'd be some way of sucking the anchor up into the hull.

Here's one w our Claw anchor that's up in the hull a bit but it still sticks out some. Most of the time my anchors have been on the fwd deck not sticking out at all .. except a few inches for the roller.

manyboats said:

Mark .. Be nice ..

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He can't...he's an old coot

MurrayM said:

He can't...he's an old coot

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Live with it!

Murray be nice and stop mak'in fun of us old men.

Present us a nice picture for forgiveness.

manyboats said:

Murray be nice and stop mak'in fun of us old men.

Present us a nice picture for forgiveness.

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You bet! How's about Badger 'snouting' a path into the Giltoyees

Now your making us jealous. Keep it up!

Ted

Ted said:

Now your making us jealous. Keep it up!

Ted

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Okay, just one more...Badger all alone in McMicking Inlet, Campania Island, north coast BC;

markpierce said:

What's with all the snouts? They aren't particularly attractive and raise berthing/docking costs.

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Mark, in the interest of full disclosure, how far does your anchor and anchor roller assembly protrude from your Coot's bow?

AMAZING!!!

In looking thru the photos I am not sure even one has a chain stopper.

So the anchoring loads are either taken by the windlass/capstan (poor practice) or a anchor drill with lines hooked to the chain is required.

It is shocking that the pre delivery survey did not discover this defect, on seemingly dozens of boats.

FF, I have one on my boat's snout but I had not hooked it up in the last two pics because we had just minutes before put the anchor on, and I unhooked it in the first pic so I could lower the anchor for the pic.


Mine is a wire cable with a stainless clip that clips through one of the links on the chain.

Moonstruck said:

Mark, in the interest of full disclosure, how far does your anchor and anchor roller assembly protrude from your Coot's bow?

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I estimate no more than 16 inches.

The box has the motor inside to increase the fall into the anchor locker, it also keeps things drier than being inside the anchor locker. I extended it out a little bit further over the bow to keep the anchor from chewing up the box when retrieving. I like to set by dropping going forward into my anchorage and snubbing off on the Sampson post, letting the momentum of the boat set the Rocna rather than by backing on it.

Doug how do you deal w the anchor cone, twisting and other fowling events of the chain in the Willard anchor rode locker? Does the Willard bow shape help w such issues?

I have 600' of 5/8" laid line with another 45' of 3/8" G4 on top of it. If I am in "normal" depths I don't have any issues with the cone, but if I have to lay out most of my rode sometimes I have to get into the anchor locker and knock it over. It actually goes in pretty well since the locker shape and the hull push the stack back towards the locker door. If I only had 400' there wouldn't be any issues at all. My spare line is 400' of 5/8" with 25' of 3/8 G4 and a 10K Rocna (never used). There is a chain pipe welded in between the windlass deck and the locker to keep everything straight.

All of the wiring is inside a heavy duty plastic cable cover anchored to the inside of the locker.

Mine would be too embarrassing to post, so I'll post my friend's setup.

Late March in Rudyerd Cove, Misty Fiords, Alaska. Anchors are 110lb Bruce and 75lb CQR. That's a friend's video camera on a tripod to capture our adventure.



Richard

I love those hawse pipes on the bow. I would love to do that to my boat! I would like to do them on the stern too, and to have one big centerline cleat inside the stern. When I tow I have to use both stern cleats with a weight equalizing system to keep from overloading the rail mounted cleats.

Doug,
What is "laid line"?
I have three scuppers on Willy. No metal around the edge or a cleat in the appropriate place.
If you ever think of putting a big cleat in the middle of the stern for towing on the cap rail consider that heavy loads may deform the hull. I intend on making a bridle and using the existing cleats on each side.

Laid line is just the three stranded "with a twist" nylon, vs the "brait" woven line. If the brait discussion had come up before I ordered my new rode I would have gotten brait instead. It doesn't twist going through the windlass so that occasional "knuckle" that you get going down the chain pipe wouldn't happen (I don't think).

Towing is something I never do unless I have to, but the rail mounted cleats are pretty weak and if I broke one off there is no back up plan. I don't think the possibility of distorting the hull by towing is a reality unless towing in conditions that are "stupid". If it were that rough I would use a very long anchor line for maximum stretch to minimize cleat loading, or let something tougher than my boat do the towing.

I would want the bronze or stainless metal support and abrasion resistance of a hawse pipe, where I want to put the pipes there would be no point in having a scupper.

Boats are a hoot to work on aren't they?

Ground tackle on Invader No 1

Is what it is, Northill behind 160 chain, 160 rode, on a drum winch. Ya me sleep good.

the upside

Gotta love a good hook up.

I'm coming to the last stage, what think ye of this for a Rocna 15?

https://hammermarine.com/shop/anchor-products/bowsprits/cx-range/cx-415-bow-spirit/

My Rocna 15 is mounted on a similar but not identical roller, and the tip of the anchor made contact with the hull and gnawed a little area of gel coat off. I wound up moving it out a little bit on the "deck" for the platform, about an extra 3", problem solved. Not sure what you are mounting to, but you might check the clearance. My original roller mount was on the cap rail of the boat, now it's mounted onto a windlass deck that extends out over the cap rail a few inches for extra clearance.

I am thinking about removing this EZ Puller from the Parker and putting it on the Fales.

John

FlyWright said:

self launching

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Here's an update from my pulpit rebuild this past winter. Note the extended aft end to accommodate the length of the SS plate. The original pulpit wasn't quite long enough, but I had it extended during repairs following a recent allision.

http://www.trawlerforum.com/forums/s42/whats-hatt-doing-my-pulpit-23115.html

Attitude Adjustment

Lofrans Tigres with Delta 45. no chain stopper but when anchoring I have a rope with a chainhook on to a chain link then cleated to the post seen aft of the windlass. This takes any strain off of the windlass gearing.

Steve I love your bow rail but I'm not nuts about the Samson Post. The tie is too high. With a lot of tension on the anchor rode the tension on the two aft bolts of the Samson post must be extreme. I'd consider a big four bolt cleat that attaches the line right down on the deck. Then the bolts will be almost completely in shear and all four bolts will be taking the load .. not just two in tension.

I have two small Samson posts and would like to be rid of them. They are on the cap rail amidships and I need them for my two spring lines. Mine would be better off if they were tall like yours as there isn't enough room for two lines to tie gracefully. I had a Samson post on the bow but gave it away. That one was really nice looking though.

Thanks guys, I will have pics of mine soon. I have procrastinated all winter but am finalizing things right now. Had to do some patching and woodworking. The Rocna 15 had me scratching my head for quite a while.

Rivertrader said:

I am thinking about removing this EZ Puller from the Parker and putting it on the Fales.

John

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I bought this chain drive reel from a fisherman in Klawock Alaska. I've not worked it over and put it on Willy as it's so big. Make me an offer if it grabs you.