Do you get taken by the word "Marine?"

Do you pay a premium for "Marine" labelling?

I had a boat with twin BMW I/O and many of the engine parts were identical to the automotive ones including part numbers. Only the packaging said "BMW Marine" and the cost was at least 4 times higher.
Found the same with some Mercruiser parts.

I was reading about folks using RV toilets instead of "marine" in straight dump applications and saving a substantial amount.

Where have you found buying "marine" unnecessary?

"I was reading about folks using RV toilets instead of "marine" in straight dump applications and saving a substantial amount."

What is saved with an RV toilet is the hassle of repairing pumps, toilet crap grinders and all the rest.

An ideal RV install would have a macerator pump on a std RV valve (Dupree for quality) for use when where ever its legal to dump.

When the macerator dies the valve is slid closed , the unit removed in seconds, , repaired or replaced and installed in a low mess short time.

Sure a good RV unit might cost less , but first cost is not the reason for their install,

EZ living is.

Think there is certainly a premium for marine parts. Also believe there is a big difference because of economy of scale. Most places where boat engine parts are sold pale in comparison to one of the major auto parts distributors such as NAPA. There is no way that the independent retailer for boat parts can compete with an online mass merchant. Use to own a small retail sporting goods store. There all but a thing of the past now.

Ted

Some things we get from the RV world, hand held shower, for instance. Others from the big box stores, like new sink faucets. However, when it comes to our Cummins, I've found that marine outlets like Seaboard Marine charge the same for filters as the truck places like Ryder Fleet. Really depends on what we are buying. For straight marine products, we've often found great deals for new parts on ebay when we have time to wait for what we need to come up. The one part of our boat that really drives me nuts on prices is parts for the Northern Light generator. It is an amazingly well built generator, but they are really proud of their parts.

FF said:

"I was reading about folks using RV toilets instead of "marine" in straight dump applications and saving a substantial amount."

What is saved with an RV toilet is the hassle of repairing pumps, toilet crap grinders and all the rest.

An ideal RV install would have a macerator pump on a std RV valve (Dupree for quality) for use when where ever its legal to dump.

When the macerator dies the valve is slid closed , the unit removed in seconds, , repaired or replaced and installed in a low mess short time.

Sure a good RV unit might cost less , but first cost is not the reason for their install,

EZ living is.

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I'm obviously missing something here...you make it sound like marine heads are overly complicated and archaic. Why have one in the first place?

Marine.....not so bad....bad is aircraft part.

Old deckhand said:

Marine.....not so bad....bad is aircraft part.

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There is good reason for that. Those parts have to be certified by the FAA(TSO/STC) and it is expensive to go through that process.

Greetings,
Mr. B. Are you suggesting Perko parts are NOT certified by the TSO/STC? Scandalous!

Deka batteries, sold by West Marine.
Spoke with a Engineer at the factory 3 or 4 years ago. Asked him what was different about marine batteries; "Nothing, just the label"

Buy my batteries at the local truck supply store.

Old deckhand said:

Marine.....not so bad....bad is aircraft part.

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Baker said:

There is good reason for that. Those parts have to be certified by the FAA(TSO/STC) and it is expensive to go through that process.

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Ah, which is good reason to fly experimental class aircraft. But, back to the discussion on boat parts!

Sometimes a buying a marine part is necessary or unavoidable, but I always try to find sources for components that may be standardized like plumbing and engine components. For example last winter I had a starter and an alternator rebuilt at a local Auto-Electric shop for 1/4 the price of new ones. This winter I'll be replacing the galley faucet and Home Depot has exactly the right Delta unit for much less than 1/2 the marine price.

Ken

bluebyu said:

Asked him what was different about marine batteries; "Nothing, just the label"

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Lol...
Batteries and tires are the anchor threads of bike forums.
"Harley Davidson" tires are the identical Dunlops Yamaha uses as stock.

"I'm obviously missing something here...you make it sound like marine heads are overly complicated and archaic. Why have one in the first place?"

Most "marine" toilets were created to flush directly overboard using unlimited sea water to flush.

RV toilets must be almost directly on top of the now required holding tank to function.

Using loads of water to pump waste to a tank somewhere is the result of lazy or uninformed NA .

The joy of flushing with 1/2 pint of water and extending the holding tank range 3x to 10x is not part of his design process.

Same reason we get new boats with unservicable fuel boxes , instead of a servicable fuel TANK,

The first owner does not Demand it.

Sad to say there are no surveyors that rate the function (instead of observed condition) before paying for a new boat.

I certainly got taken by the word "marine".....37 years later, I'm still working in the marine industry.

Our previous boat had a Volvo Penta 350 in it. Many of the parts were exactly the same as standard GM 350 parts. I had the starter rebuilt with OEM GM copper coils, it came with aluminum windings. The water pump was exactly the same as the GM part number. etc.

I only look to "marine" if it is going to interact with salt water or salt spray. On the Hatteras, all the galley appliances are home kitchen appliances, for instance. Or the Sears shallow well pump for fresh water.

An exception to the salt spray standard are many electrical items, such as properly isolated battery chargers and UL rated "Boat Cable" .

Bought some bolt style hose clamps at West Marime in Portland--$30 per. Exact same clamp at Pacific Rubber in Eugene--$4.50. Marine?? More like Rip City! No wait, that's the Blazers. Rip Off. Now that's West Marine.

West Marine antenna jumper cable (to hook up AIS) $29.99. Radio Shack $4.99

Greetings,
All valid comments thus far and the only thing I can add is a lot of items with the descriptive adjectives; Marine, Scientific, Medical to name just a few are identical to their undescribed/brand labelled counterparts.
As an aside...My BIL drove a Mercedes for a time. He had it serviced at a dealership and on one occasion a mechanic had evidently charged out one too many 1/4" washers from the parts counter. It was dutifully presented to my BIL (because he had actually paid for it) in a MB blister pack. A simple, steel, 1/4" washer. Cost? $0.95. This was about 1980.
Caveat emptor...

I thought the thread was about actual marine items, not "West" marine branded items.... that's a whole 'nother (dead horse) subject!

There are several issues to the "marine" vs "non marine" debate.

Yes, engine manufacturer's jack up marine prices and non marinization OEM parts can often be purchased from tractor supply shops much cheaper. Even some marinization parts like oil coolers can be bought from US suppliers.

Some marine labeled equipment is exactly the same as its RV equivalent but much higher priced. There might be a little justification for this, because the warranty rate for marine stuff is probably higher than RV stuff. The marine environment is tougher.

And some marine equipment has subtle differences from its RV equivalent- stainless vs painted or galvanized housings, chrome plated brass vs pot metal, marine UL certification for electrical items, etc.

Some of the marine stuff is worth it, some isn't. It is often difficult to know which is which.

David

caltexflanc said:

I thought the thread was about actual marine items, not "West" marine branded items.... that's a whole 'nother (dead horse) subject!

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Sorry if I offended you by using the two price points I had. I guess I didn't read the thread rules....

If it's anything electrical or fuel related, pay for the 'marine' version. I can't count the number of marina fires that are started by a boat owner who "can't see any reason to pay $12.95 for that switch when I can buy the same switch for $4.50 at Home Depot." This post on another site is likely another example of what happens when you don't buy the marine version:
Yet another boat fire..... | SailboatOwners.com Forums

HeadMistress said:

If it's anything electrical or fuel related, pay for the 'marine' version. I can't count the number of marina fires that are started by a boat owner who "can't see any reason to pay $12.95 for that switch when I can buy the same switch for $4.50 at Home Depot."

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I totally agree. Not that you cannot get ripped off, of course, but there are some things which just really should be the marine version. A good example, which bit me, was buying "stainless steel" screws at a hardware store one time. A lot cheaper than Jamestown. They rusted within a few months in the salt air. Ditto with some hose clamps. Learned a lesson and it did not cost me dearly. But it could have.