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CaptTPT

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2012
Messages
103
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Have Patience
Vessel Make
Navigator 56 Classic
Sea-land Vacu-flush failed with flush part way down. Snap Action Switch failed at the wrong moment. Partial suction. Investigation revealed broken switch. No spare. Two weeks later I have new switch installed and working properly. Unfortunately the partial flush has turned into concrete in the line. Didn't think of bypassing the switch to run the pump at the time. Marine Sanitation in Seattle suggests using Solution of Un-Chloric Acid to dissolve. Any other ideas?? Doubt that will make it very far down the line.
 
Can you use a bucket to fill the line with water?
 
A plumbers snake?
 
There was nothing to fail during that flush...accumulated suction created by pump during the previous flush should have sucked the flush all the way to the pump...the pump then pushes it the rest of the way to the tank or wherever while it simultaneously creates a new "vacuum" to suck out the next flush. So your clog should be in the pump, clogging up the bellows, which would prevent the pump from running. So the first thing I'd try would be to remove the top of the vacuum pump to see what's in it and clean it out. If it didn't get that far, someone needs to learn what not to flush, or learn to use a lot less TP...or seriously re-evaluate their diet!

If it's not in the pump, try any live bacteria (NOT just enzymes, live bugs) holding tank product. Make sure there's plenty of water with it, don't be skimpy with the product. It may take a few days, but should dissolve the clog without harm to the system unless it's a wet wipe or tampon. If it is, removing it will require surgery.
 
HeadMistress said:
There was nothing to fail during that flush...accumulated suction created by pump during the previous flush should have sucked the flush all the way to the pump...the pump then pushes it the rest of the way to the tank or wherever while it simultaneously creates a new "vacuum" to suck out the next flush. So your clog should be in the pump, clogging up the bellows, which would prevent the pump from running. So the first thing I'd try would be to remove the top of the vacuum pump to see what's in it and clean it out. If it didn't get that far, someone needs to learn what not to flush, or learn to use a lot less TP...or seriously re-evaluate their diet!

If it's not in the pump, try any live bacteria (NOT just enzymes, live bugs) holding tank product. Make sure there's plenty of water with it, don't be skimpy with the product. It may take a few days, but should dissolve the clog without harm to the system unless it's a wet wipe or tampon. If it is, removing it will require surgery.
Click to expand...

It was not a tampon! It was me. The only stuff going partially down was (large) dinner and paper. I'm guessing the switch failed with the previous flush because there was only a partial suction. When I replaced the switch I also replaced the Duck-Bills. There was nothing in the lines at that level. Also, I know the suction is now working properly because the pump pulls the switch into the off position appropriately. Does that still indicate the same possible position of the plug?
 
You've ruled out the pump...so now the clog can be anywhere in the system between the bowl and the pump. Unless you want to start taking hose connections apart, your best hope for dissolving it is either a bacteria product--which will take time to work--or some kind of septic tank sludge dissolver, which will still take time, but usually less time.

However...the V-Flush is the only toilet on which a plunger can be used without damage to the system. You have nothing to lose by trying it. I'd also advise some re-evaluation and changes to your diet to result in softer stools (that was a serious suggestion).
 
HeadMistress said:
You've ruled out the pump...so now the clog can be anywhere in the system between the bowl and the pump. Unless you want to start taking hose connections apart, your best hope for dissolving it is either a bacteria product--which will take time to work--or some kind of septic tank sludge dissolver, which will still take time, but usually less time.

However...the V-Flush is the only toilet on which a plunger can be used without damage to the system. You have nothing to lose by trying it. I'd also advise some re-evaluation and changes to your diet to result in softer stools (that was a serious suggestion).
Click to expand...

Tried the plunger. Didn't work. What about the Un-Chloric Acid? Also, If I take the top of the pump off, is it possible to put a snake backwards up the line?
 
If I take the top of the pump off, is it possible to put a snake backwards up the line?

No. For one thing, the hoses are attached to the base of the pump. For another there are two duckbill valves you'd have to run the snake through, which wouldn't do those any good. If you want to try snaking, it would be a lot easier to just disconnect the hose from the pump.

What about the Un-Chloric Acid?

I'd never heard of "un-chloric acid" so I googled it... It's a proprietary product available only from Marine Sanitation Unchloric Acid and seems to be more for dissolving sea water mineral buildup in hoses...so I dunno how well it would work on , than poop and TP clogs. You didn't indicate that they had much confidence in it, but it was the only thing they could think of.

So I'm thinking it might be time to give Dometic/SeaLand tech support a call...800-321-9886 Meanwhile, I do hope you put some water down the toilet, that you haven't just let the clog sit there and turn into a meteor.
 
HeadMistress said:
If I take the top of the pump off, is it possible to put a snake backwards up the line?

No. For one thing, the hoses are attached to the base of the pump. For another there are two duckbill valves you'd have to run the snake through, which wouldn't do those any good. If you want to try snaking, it would be a lot easier to just disconnect the hose from the pump.

What about the Un-Chloric Acid?

I'd never heard of "un-chloric acid" so I googled it... It's a proprietary product available only from Marine Sanitation Unchloric Acid and seems to be more for dissolving sea water mineral buildup in hoses...so I dunno how well it would work on , than poop and TP clogs. You didn't indicate that they had much confidence in it, but it was the only thing they could think of.



So I'm thinking it might be time to give Dometic/SeaLand tech support a call...800-321-9886 Meanwhile, I do hope you put some water down the toilet, that you haven't just let the clog sit there and turn into a meteor.
Click to expand...
Not possible to put water down the toilet. Doesn't go anywhere. Marine Sanitation claims it will dissolve TP and clogs in about 2 days. Just doesn't make a lot of sense to me if no water will go down the line from the toilet.
 
If water isn't going ANYwhere, it seems to me that's a fairly good indication that the clog has to be close to the bowl...'cuz you should be able to fill up the plumbing, including the vacuum tank, with water as far as the clog...and water alone will dissolve fecal matter and any TP that isn't made to withstand being hit by a cannonball--usually in only a couple of hours at most. Even if you let it harden just being wet again should start to dissolve it. What the heck did you eat???

It may be time to bite the financial bullet--but don't swallow it!--and pay a pro to clean it out.
 
HeadMistress said:
If water isn't going ANYwhere, it seems to me that's a fairly good indication that the clog has to be close to the bowl...'cuz you should be able to fill up the plumbing, including the vacuum tank, with water as far as the clog...and water alone will dissolve fecal matter and any TP that isn't made to withstand being hit by a cannonball--usually in only a couple of hours at most. Even if you let it harden just being wet again should start to dissolve it. What the heck did you eat???

It may be time to bite the financial bullet--but don't swallow it!--and pay a pro to clean it out.
Click to expand...

Thanks for you help with this. I appreciate it. I'll take the system apart. Not that difficult.
 
Don't know if vacuuflush can suck uphill, but if any of the discharge plumbing is higher than the bowl, water would naturally just sit in the bowl.
 
Its all down hill
 
I hate to tell you this, but it maybe time to start tearing it down piece by piece until you find your clog. While you are at it replace the old hose with new.
 
As the head mistress said it must be between the head and the pump. No other place possible. No water exits the toilet or enters the suction chamber.
 
I had the same problem. Plunger n/g. Poured some KO in the line and in two days cleared out. I guess the only difference with my situation was water would s.l.o.w.l.y drain from the head ( like 6 to eight hours to empty). This allowed the KO to get to the clog. I had to prop the foot switch open and turn off the water feed.
 
Turn the water off, step on the foot pedal keeping it open and look at the hole in the bottom of the bowl. Bet it is right where it exits the bowl as the diameter of the exit is quite small, if it is clogged right there poke it with a 1/4" dowel, this is done with the toilet at vacuum. Once it clears the small exit it then enters a large hose, this has happened a few times to us when someone is TP happy..........:whistling:

PS....throw the dowel away......:facepalm:
 
Plungers are really bad idea, you can damage the duck bills or vacuum switch. Peggy has the best advice.

The common things people do to mess up a properly installed Vacuflush when flushing anything (including TP) solid, are: 1) not putting extra water in the bowl 2) Not holding the pedal down for a three count 3) not letting the pedal snap up on its own from the fully down position.
In other words, not following the manual! They even make a little sticker you can mount to the underneath side of the lid to remind you.
 
Plungers are really bad idea, you can damage the duck bills or vacuum switch.

SeaLand approves limited use of a plunger to clear a clog. They're the only mfr who does.The pedal--or flush button on some newer models--should be held for at LEAST 3 seconds following urine only, at least 7 seconds following solids. That's to make sure enough water goes down behind the flush to rinse out the system, especially the pump. But because the water flow is so skimpy--too skimpy to completely fill the hoses, I've always recommended flushing a full bowl of clean water through once a day, and especially before the boat will sit, to clean out the hoses and the vacuum pump.
 
Hi Peggy, when did they start that? My manual advises against it. Is it all systems or just the combos or the component systems? Maybe the key word there is "limited"?
 
I've never seen anything for OR against it in any of the manuals, only been told in conversations with SeaLand personnel that it's ok try a plunger if nothing else works. But I don't update my copy of manual every year because the trouble-shooting guide hasn't changed enough to notice since Mansfield introduced the VacFlush in 1978....so apparently that's been added.
 
rochepoint said:
Turn the water off, step on the foot pedal keeping it open and look at the hole in the bottom of the bowl. Bet it is right where it exits the bowl as the diameter of the exit is quite small, if it is clogged right there poke it with a 1/4" dowel, this is done with the toilet at vacuum. Once it clears the small exit it then enters a large hose, this has happened a few times to us when someone is TP happy..........:whistling:

PS....throw the dowel away......:facepalm:
Click to expand...

Thanks. Tried that several times
 
Here you are, have a look at page six - Clearing Discharge Lines...:thumb:
 

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HeadMistress said:
Plungers are really bad idea, you can damage the duck bills or vacuum switch.

SeaLand approves limited use of a plunger to clear a clog. They're the only mfr who does.The pedal--or flush button on some newer models--should be held for at LEAST 3 seconds following urine only, at least 7 seconds following solids. That's to make sure enough water goes down behind the flush to rinse out the system, especially the pump. But because the water flow is so skimpy--too skimpy to completely fill the hoses, I've always recommended flushing a full bowl of clean water through once a day, and especially before the boat will sit, to clean out the hoses and the vacuum pump.
Click to expand...
What you are saying sounds great. However, if I followed what you are suggesting my black water tank would be filled in less than half the time it currently takes. May as well just stay hooked to the dock. I prefer to stay hooked with my anchor.
 
CaptTPT said:
What you are saying sounds great. However, if I followed what you are suggesting my black water tank would be filled in less than half the time it currently takes. May as well just stay hooked to the dock. I prefer to stay hooked with my anchor.
Click to expand...

Based in Eugene, where are you boating? Not the ocean, I take it?
 
rochepoint said:
Here you are, have a look at page six - Clearing Discharge Lines...:thumb:
Click to expand...

That is great but does not have anything to do with my problem. That is a maintenance procedure.
 
caltexflanc said:
Based in Eugene, where are you boating? Not the ocean, I take it?
Click to expand...
Mostly Columbia River. Just got back from trip up river from Portland to Tri-cities area. Great trip. Also go west to Astoria. Up to San Juans.
 
CaptTPT said:
That is great but does not have anything to do with my problem. That is a maintenance procedure.
Click to expand...

That was to do with Peggie's post #21 since she was asked where the documentation was for her statement and for the use of others.

Since my dowel trick didn't help sounds like your plug is actually in the hoses, to me looks like two choices, do as post #4 suggest or pull the hoses of till you find the clog.
 
With some water in the head, the water feed shut off, the pedal down (valve open) and the vacuum pump on, try flexing, bending, squeezing, and tapping with a rubber mallet the hose between the head and the vacuum pump. As long as there is vacuum to pull, you may be able to get some water movement past the blockage to start eroding it. With water going by the blockage, you may then be able to use one of the chemicals.

Ted
 
O C Diver said:
With some water in the head, the water feed shut off, the pedal down (valve open) and the vacuum pump on, try flexing, bending, squeezing, and tapping with a rubber mallet the hose between the head and the vacuum pump. As long as there is vacuum to pull, you may be able to get some water movement past the blockage to start eroding it. With water going by the blockage, you may then be able to use one of the chemicals.


Ted
Click to expand...

Great. Now the problem is you have to be 3 foot tall and skinnier than Twiggy to get to those hoses. I cuss the jack ass who designed my boat regularly.
 
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