Your Best Technique or Invention

FlyWright said:

4. Laminated briefing cards for new passengers keeps them busy reading while leaving the dock. One side has vessel facts and history. The other side has safety items like PFD and fire extinguisher locations, head instructions and precautions to keep a hand hold while underway. By the time they're done reading, we're safely away from the dock.

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Your entire list was good but this is one we do like you. We're really very informal people but when it comes to safety we get formal. We actually give those boating with us the first time a tour of the boat and a laminated sheet, front and back. I think the one that is the hardest for them is not to move around while we're docking and not to help in any way unless asked to. However, people moving suddenly can block your view, move just into your line of sight and helping can get them injured. I don't think sometimes they appreciate the weight of a boat. Because it's on water, they seem to think it's light, I can just stick my hand out and push it away from that dock or grab something and pull it in or I'll jump onto the dock to help. I understand the urge to help. We get on our best friend's 52' Riva. We trained her and our boat was the first small boat she was ever on (yes she's been on cruise ships and 300' yachts). Ours was the first she ever took the helm. But when we're on her boat, we don't start to help until instructed. If she says, "would you get that line please," we do it. Otherwise we watch. It's tough sometimes to follow your own rules on someone else's boat, but she knows we're there and we're willing. However, she and her best friend or her mother handle it by themselves all the time.

We make it clear that safety overrules anything else on the boat. If the "Captain" says to put life jackets on, you put them on.

And many have never used a marine head. I hadn't until we moved here and bought a boat. Didn't have them on the lake.

I should have had a card on the lake, but didn't know about doing such. Worst situation I ever had was a friend of a friend of a friend ended up with me one day. There were four of us in total. The boat had a sunpad at the stern and I didn't allow anyone to be on it when we were underway. I told her once, then turned and before I could do anything she was back up there. I told her if she did it again, I was going to put her out and she could walk back and I was going to put her out wherever we were at the moment, even if in the middle of the lake. She pouted but stayed off the sunpad. I knew nothing about being a captain or anything at that time but I knew it was my boat and I was responsible for the well being of the passengers.

Rogerh said:

Twistedtree, great tip. Are you refering to one like this?
Piston Ring Compressor at AutoZone.com - Best Piston Ring Compressor Parts for Cars, Trucks & SUVS
Thanks

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That's it. If you have big impellers, it will be the best $10 you have spent in a long time....

I will certainly add that tool to my arsenal ASAP. Thanks for the tip.

My "great idea"

I posted this a couple of years ago but couldn't find the thread. In the old MT's there are sliding doors on the under-bunk and under salon couch storage areas but getting stuff in and out of there is a pain. I took out the doors, butt-glued them and made them "drawer fronts" for the spaces. Now the space is accessible and larger stuff can be stored there.

FlyWright said:

4. Laminated briefing cards for new passengers keeps them busy reading while leaving the dock. One side has vessel facts and history. The other side has safety items like PFD and fire extinguisher locations, head instructions and precautions to keep a hand hold while underway. By the time they're done reading, we're safely away from the dock.

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I always find that guests are a bit bewildered at leaving so tend to stand back, but are more comfortable when arriving back and tend to want to help as thanks. That's when I invite them up to the fly bridge to see how it all works! Leaving the missus to get on with it.

Which reminds me: my missus has gotten very comfortable screaming at someone hurrying down the dock to "help us" - "I've got it, thanks," in such a tone that they know she means it.

ARoss said:

I posted this a couple of years ago but couldn't find the thread. In the old MT's there are sliding doors on the under-bunk and under salon couch storage areas but getting stuff in and out of there is a pain. I took out the doors, butt-glued them and made them "drawer fronts" for the spaces. Now the space is accessible and larger stuff can be stored there.

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ARoss- that is an excellent idea!!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's

I use a nylon cable tie to compress an impeller's vanes. I put it around the impeller zip it a bit tight, orient all the vanes in the right direction then tighten enough to slip the impeller into the housing, once in up to the tie (half way) I clip the tie with a diagonal cutting plier and slide the rest of the impeller in. Use a tie about 1/4"-3/8" wide.

Steve said:

I use a nylon cable tie to compress an impeller's vanes. I put it around the impeller zip it a bit tight, orient all the vanes in the right direction then tighten enough to slip the impeller into the housing, once in up to the tie (half way) I clip the tie with a diagonal cutting plier and slide the rest of the impeller in. Use a tie about 1/4"-3/8" wide.

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I like that idea. I also smear almost any rubber type components that require some lubrication like oil filter seals and impellers with a product from Dow Corning called Compound 4. Its a silicon dielectric grease which is commonly used in aviation on seals and things, has multiple uses in the marine environment and will ensure smooth operation of impellers and other components.

Have also used the zip tie method on big impellers with success; for ease-of-installation lube, liquid soap works well.

As for the oil filter changes, and the huge filters on the Detroits, after coming out of the first few oil changes looking like Pigpen from Peanuts, I was turned on to using the big heavy ply contractor's trash bags which could be nicely molded to the well beneath the filter. Trying to get various pails and pans under there that could handle the volume of oil in the filter was fruitless. So 1) position bag 2)drill big holes in bottom of filter 3) go do something else for awhile 4) spin filter off. 5) repeat at next engine. When I got to an oil recycling depot, stuffed the bunched up top of the bag into the hole, got most of the oil out, deposited bag with filter in filter bin. When we were cruising full time, I was doing three or four changes a year, so trying to do this cleanly and easily became a bit of an obsession, given my innate ability to turn any kind of job into a messy one.

George, good tip. I can definately relate to the fruitless effort with the pails. Especially when I tried to remove it without drilling the hole first. Loaded with oil that puppy is heavy when you are in a somewhat awkward postion. I would get it into the bucket with oil going everywhere and then I could not get the bucket out..... Thanks for the tip which I will use on my next change.

menzies said:

One thing I do when I have a good number people on board - that's likely to attract the attention of a passing CG boat. Grab a PFD for everyone and strap them onto the bimini/canvas supports.

It has a dual purpose - they are right to hand if ever needed AND the CG see a vessel which, although there seems to be a good group of people aboard, also seems to be buttoned down!

Don't know if it works because in my 13 years in Florida waters I have only been inspected once !

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In how it seems worded: Guess the CG must figure with everyone strapped onto bimini supports it's hard to have MOB!

Art said:

In how it seems worded: Guess the CG must figure with everyone strapped onto bimini supports it's hard to have MOB!

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Sigh, we Brits gave you yanks a perfectly good language and you totally screwed it up!

menzies said:

Sigh, we Brits gave you yanks a perfectly good language and you totally screwed it up!

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Jetstream said:

I like that idea. I also smear almost any rubber type components that require some lubrication like oil filter seals and impellers with a product from Dow Corning called Compound 4. Its a silicon dielectric grease which is commonly used in aviation on seals and things, has multiple uses in the marine environment and will ensure smooth operation of impellers and other components.

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I found this worked well on small to medium sized impellers, but I was unable to get it to work on big, long impellers. The challenge increases as the impeller gets longer. If you attach the zip tie towards the edge of the impeller where it will compress the fins for entry into the pump body, it wants to slip off. And if part of the impeller is squished into the pump body and part is still outside, the impeller wants to pop out of the pump. If you put the zip tie near the center of the impeller, the fins at the edges would not be compressed enough. And yes, lots of silicon spray is required, but the resulting slipperiness also becomes part of the problem. My GB has Cummins QSC engines, and they were a real bear to change impellers on. That's where I sorted out the piston ring compressor trick.

menzies said:

Sigh, we Brits gave you yanks a perfectly good language and you totally screwed it up!

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Right? Two countries separated by a common language.

twistedtree said:

If you attach the zip tie towards the edge of the impeller where it will compress the fins for entry into the pump body, it wants to slip off. And if part of the impeller is squished into the pump body and part is still outside, the impeller wants to pop out of the pump. If you put the zip tie near the center of the impeller, the fins at the edges would not be compressed enough. And yes, lots of silicon spray is required, but the resulting slipperiness also becomes part of the problem.

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Have you tried using more than one zip tie? The impellers on my engines are about 6"-7" long. I use one zip tie about 1" from the end, one near the middle, and one near the other end.

As I slide the impeller in I cut the first zip tie, slide it in further and cut the one in the middle and slide it most of the way in and cut the last one. Then, with a bit of a shove it slides right in.

I know some have cut a section from the side of a milk gal jug and wrapped that around the larger impellers w zip ties outside the flexible plastic...does a better job of compressing evenly and easier to push the impeller into the cavity.

Don
'08 MS 34HT
"Bacchus"

Best idea I've had has been to try those miracle/expandable hoses. It was always a pain wrestling with conventional hoses. These new ones are light, stow easily, and don't kink. I carry a 100' foot hose for fresh water, and a 50' hose for the raw water washdown.

I had one fail after only a year. My current hoses are on year 3. Even if they all failed today these are SO much easier to handle around the boat that I'll never go back.

Sure, the ones from Home Depot aren't white, but I can live with that.

GFC said:

Have you tried using more than one zip tie? The impellers on my engines are about 6"-7" long. I use one zip tie about 1" from the end, one near the middle, and one near the other end.

As I slide the impeller in I cut the first zip tie, slide it in further and cut the one in the middle and slide it most of the way in and cut the last one. Then, with a bit of a shove it slides right in.

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No, I didn't try that. Once I dropped the $10 for a ring compressor, I just used that.

danderer said:

Best idea I've had has been to try those miracle/expandable hoses. It was always a pain wrestling with conventional hoses. These new ones are light, stow easily, and don't kink. I carry a 100' foot hose for fresh water, and a 50' hose for the raw water washdown.

I had one fail after only a year. My current hoses are on year 3. Even if they all failed today these are SO much easier to handle around the boat that I'll never go back.

Sure, the ones from Home Depot aren't white, but I can live with that.

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X1,000! Find the expandable hose with metal fittings, the ones w/ plastic breaks very easy....Great idea!

caltexflanc said:

As for the oil filter changes, 1) position bag 2)drill big holes in bottom of filter 3) go do something else for awhile 4) spin filter off.

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One little sub-tip here....Before drilling, Break the filter loose a bit with your wrench so you know for sure you can get it off! Having a seized on filter already drilled with holes could be discouraging!

danderer said:

Best idea I've had has been to try those miracle/expandable hoses. .

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I need one of those. My current dock hose kinks by just looking at it...

Don't know if this has been mentioned, but to remove old or stiff or tight hoses from fittings, particularly larger diameter hoses like raw water hoses, sanitation hoses, etc. playing a heat gun on the end does wonders. Same for installing very tight or stiff new hoses. A little bit of heat and they very often slide right on.

twistedtree said:

Once I dropped the $10 for a ring compressor, I just used that.

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Sounds like a good way to go instead of messing with milk jugs and zip ties. I would be leery of an unnoticed sharp or rough edge on a cinched up zip tie putting a nick in a brand new impellor.

My problem with the bag is that oil leaks down the sides if loosened. Trying to turn it in a bag is greased pig wrestling.
Since the bag has no rigidity it cant be left alone while the oil drains.

Nobody beats me when it comes to making a mess.

When our Boston Whaler tender gets dirty inside I put some water and soap into it, scrub it clean, then "vacuum" it out with a shop vac. Then rinse and repeat. Easy if you don't put in a lot of water.

bayview said:

Trying to turn it in a bag is greased pig wrestling.

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I wonder if a couple strips of carpet tape up the side of the filter would stop the pig rasslin'.

Marin said:

Don't know if this has been mentioned, but to remove old or stiff or tight hoses from fittings, particularly larger diameter hoses like raw water hoses, sanitation hoses, etc. playing a heat gun on the end does wonders. Same for installing very tight or stiff new hoses. A little bit of heat and they very often slide right on.

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In most cases you can just take a cotter pin puller tool and insert it between the hose and nipple and work it around between the two and break the hose free from the nipple pretty easily. And then pull the hose off. A butter knife works well too.

To remove old wire reinforced hoses I use a Dremel tool with a cut off disk attached to it. It cuts through the hose and wire in a snap. Or several snaps I guess I should say.

Quote To remove old wire reinforced hoses I use a Dremel tool with a cut off disk attached to it. It cuts through the hose and wire in a snap. Or several snaps I guess I should say. End Quote

A Dremel is one of the best tools ever invented. I needed to replace a sanitation hose that was clamped to a holding tank fitting that could not be reached to undo a rearward facing clamp under the floor. There was no way to reach that clamp, BUT, a cutoff wheel on a Dremel cut that clamp off like in seconds.Sure better than cutting a hole in my parquet floor. The new clamp faces the right direction for easy removal.