Your Best Technique or Invention

I think the advice to never use rudder with twins is from teaching newbies to twins.

Once comfortable...graduating to using rudder and more advanced techniques usually comes into play.

FF said:

"backing in with strong current or wind, how you remember which way to turn the wheel?"

Imagine your self standing behind the wheel as you go aft and steer normally.

Click to expand...

Perfect! Just what I was looking for.

I think I agree with the "neutral rudders" method as a first (major) step in close quarters maneuvering. I plan to use the wheel only in extreme circumstances but need to take that next step.

Thanks!

bayview said:

I guess you never walk your boat sideways. A smart boater uses all available tools at the correct time.

Click to expand...

Never had the need to - 13 years with the current boat. Either reversing into a slip or going alongside a bulkhead. With proper use of twins and current (rarely wind), I never have to touch the wheel when docking.

Now, those with a single, different story.

Quote:
When using twins centralize the rudders and never touch the wheel when docking - use the gears and a little goose if needs be.

bayview said:

I guess you never walk your boat sideways. A smart boater uses all available tools at the correct time.

Click to expand...

Unless emergency actions are required - like needing to immediately avert a seagoing collision... or to avert being thrashed against a jetty... or needing to retrieve a MOB...

When in tight quarters (docking, rafting, beaching, traveling in shallow waters... etc): No matter how/what you are utilizing for items aboard boat for producing the boat's movement/direction... Go at it all Very Slowly! Take your time; there is seldom ever a true need to rush at all when boat is close to things. By Slow - I mean - speeds that could be measured in yards/feet per hour, rather than miles per hour. When in-close to things... by using controls, a boat should be able to be brought to an absolute stand-still or moved into an opposite direction path within a foot or two movement - or even less! Some times inches count for preventing human injury or material damage!

bayview said:

A good canvas shop can replace all that soft vinyl with semi rigid polycarbonate (lexan type) windows. The poly carbonate is much superior to soft vinyl.. Try it in the center front window first if you are unsure. My canvas guy even curved the corners using 30 mil instead of 50 mil. The curve gave rigidity.

Click to expand...

I'm looking at replacing my veranda eisenglass now. Does the Lexan still roll up?

Crew Rules:

Never put yourself between the boat and another object.
Always one hand for yourself.
Open the cap for the holding tank VERY slowly.
Make sure that there is air coming out of the fuel vent when starting to fill.

No lexan does not roll up. You attach snaps or toggles overhead and swing the window up. Easier and faster than rolling but the primary benefit is clarity. Five years later they still look new.

Lexan was the most significant improvement I made on my boat. If you look at the pix most of the windows will swing up. The upper helm became fully enclosed for bad weather and could be fully open or partially open as conditions changed. The small "smily" vents were great to allow air flow even in wet conditions. I added a visor to the top as well.

menzies said:

Never had the need to - 13 years with the current boat. Either reversing into a slip or going alongside a bulkhead. With proper use of twins and current (rarely wind), I never have to touch the wheel when docking.

Now, those with a single, different story.

Click to expand...

Twins are sweet, aren't they though! Sort-a like a full track tractor. Turn nearly on a dime via throttle rpm and shift positions; with no need for rudder to be in other than straight configuration.

However, in order to walk a boat directly sideways from a standstill... some play between rudder angles and engines' throttles/shifts positions can be very useful.

When I was learning to drive my single screw Mainship the best advice I got was that the stern moves first. Once I got this concept docking became much easier.


And when moving around outside ONE HAND ON THE BOAT at all times.

jdud133 said:

When I was learning to drive my single screw Mainship the best advice I got was that the stern moves first. Once I got this concept docking became much easier.

Click to expand...

My Aha! moment came when I visualized our boat turning like a slow moving vehicle on a frozen lake...kind of sideways with the arse end wanting to swing out.

A very easy way to pilot the boat in and out of the dock/jetty if you have a bow thruster. Fit one of the 1700 series combined gear/throttle thruster levers from Morse, you can't believe how much it simplifies the whole docking process.


You can get them from Parks Masterson at Hopcar, very courteous and helpful.

Back to inaccurate fuel gauge ideas... This is a simple way to check with no ambiguity.

IF MAMA AIN'T HAPPY....AIN'T NOBODY HAPPY!!!!

Come on guys. This is THE #1 rule of boating and eveything else follows this rule. I can't believe this answer is on page 4!!!!....

Also, I agree with WifeyB!!!! USE THE BOAT!!! There is alot of wisdom there. THere is no way to know the condition of your systems unless you use the boat!!!

Keeping your clear vinyl enclousure panels clear

I keep cotton gloves handy for use when rolling up my clear vinyl enclosure Panels/windows. Keeps finger print oils, and fingernail scratches off of expensive material. Harbor freight sells cotton gloves cheap.

Next time you're at a dock, whether you have an all chain rode or a combination of chain and line: Take time to flake out and accurately measure and put marks on the rode at intervals ( whatever measurement you want whether fathoms, 10's of feet). This way when you (or someone ((your little helper)) is letting out anchor rode they have a way of telling how much is out.
I have 65' of chain. I marked every 10' with paint. My new rode I am going to mark with small pieces of line between the strands so I can see AND feel how many are there. One strand for 25' Two for 50'. 3 for 75'. 4 for 100'. 5 for 150'. 6 for 175'. And a eye splice at the end. There is already a 150' rode but it is old, tight and chafed in a couple places. So it's becoming my 'lunch hook rode' now.

It's easier to successfully anchor when you KNOW how much line you have out. 7:1 is the magic number.

P.S. Using the rudder may be confusing to a beginner when maneuvering. But practicing USING rudder (correctly) makes all the difference in pulling out tight quarters maneuvers successfully. Speed kills. The closer you get TO the dock the less throttle you should use.

I think this may be one of the most helpful threads ever here. Even those things we know, it serves as a great reminder.

BandB said:

I think this may be one of the most helpful threads ever here. Even those things we know, it serves as a great reminder.

Click to expand...

True...I need to measure out my anchoring rode..

cappy208 said:

My new rode I am going to mark with small pieces of line between the strands so I can see AND feel how many are there. One strand for 25' Two for 50'. 3 for 75'. 4 for 100'. 5 for 150'. 6 for 175'. And a eye splice at the end. There is already a 150' rode but it is old, tight and chafed in a couple places. So it's becoming my 'lunch hook rode' now.

Click to expand...

I have a rope/chain rode. My last rode I laid out the rope on the grass at home and spray painted the line from the anchor end starting with red at 10 feet (to know you were coming to the chain), then different colors at 25, 50, 75, 100 etc. The color code was glued to the helm. My instructions to the anchor crew would be something like "until blue in the water." Worked very well.
My most recent rode I bought the rode markers at West Marine. They are little pieces of pre-marked sturdy rubber that you thread between the strands. Also works well and have lasted two years without issue so far. Not sure how they would fair on a chain windlass though.

A set of radio headphone to allow talking to the deck crew easily. Not voice activated however as the wind will overpower it.

If the head was used, pump out every time you return to the dock, even if just a day cruise. Your dock and raft up neighbors will appreciate it every time you flush.

Fenders - bigger is better!

Don't delay maintenance.

And agree 100% with these previous suggestions - dock no faster than you want to hit anything, and USE THE BOAT, and HAVE FUN.

Many of us use an all-chain anchor rode. We DON'T attach the end of the chain inside the chain locker. We attach a short nylon line to the chain and attach the other end in the locker. Make sure the line is long enough to reach outside your locker where it can be cut free in an emergency.

We also keep a fender handy. The fender can be tied to the end of the cut line and hopefully retrieved at a later time...

Great idea!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's

Take 100s + photos of your engine and electrical's ,pumps gland seals bla bla bla from every possible angle and try to take close up photos of every part that has a part number on it fuel filter,oil filter, battery's These photos WILL come in handy when your away from the boat and need explain problems to your mechanic , parts supplier or whoever by using emails or SMS. A photo is worth a 1000 words


A pack or 2 of disposable baby diapers best thing ever to suck up engine room oil or bilge spills

I prefer 100 feet of yellow polypropylene attaching the anchor to the locker. If you need to cut it and don't have time to get a float on it...it still floats to retrieve when able.

FF said:

"backing in with strong current or wind, how you remember which way to turn the wheel?"

Imagine your self standing behind the wheel as you go aft and steer normally.

Click to expand...

Or, actually stand with your back to the wheel, and steer with your arms and hands behind you. You're going really slow, right? So even though this is a tad awkward, it works just fine with most wheels. (And, as you say, "steer normally" - i.e., point the boat where you want it to go by turning the wheel in that direction.)

cappy208 said:

The closer you get TO the dock the less throttle you should use.

Click to expand...

Not necessarily. Once we got the feel for using differential power as well as opposing thrust and the rudders for maneuvering, I've taken an engine up to half throttle momentarily on occasion to get the stern to go where I want it to go against a wind or a current or both. Differential power can be a wonderful tool, and taking a page from the tug and fishboat operators, sometimes it takes a fair amount of power for a moment to accomplish what you want to accomplish.

Tidal current, river current and wind dictate powered required.

While as little is needed may be the catch phrase....sometimes LOTS of throttle is necessary to accomplish the task.

Of course the option exists to go someplace else..but that isn't always the preferred option.

Greetings,
Post # 84. EXCELLENT idea. Thanks Mr. ps.

psneeld said:

I prefer 100 feet of yellow polypropylene attaching the anchor to the locker. If you need to cut it and don't have time to get a float on it...it still floats to retrieve when able.

Click to expand...

Around here it would likely be pulled under by the chain and become someone's unwanted stern anchor.

Hawgwash said:

Around here it would likely be pulled under by a chain rode and become someone's unwanted stern anchor.

Click to expand...

No different than adding a float like most do when cutting their anchor rode.....and if you anchor in more than 100 feet.... add more.

If the anchorage is so busy the day of or after you have to cut free your anchor than oh well....most get back to their $1000 worth of anchor and chain as soon as possible.

At least the poly makes it easier than dragging the bottom for your chain and nylon.

If only 1/2 lucky...you will find some boat over your rig with the poly in its prop...but you at least can get your rig back relatively easily...