thinking about cutting some stuff out of my salon?

Woodsong wrote:

Daddyo, Did you do the new build out? It looks awesome! I had no idea you redid your salon. What used to be aft of the blue covered settee before you redid it? Did you have a local shop do the new seat cushions or were you able to find something off the shelf?
Awesome job.

Click to expand...

Yes I built itl. Originally aft of the settee on the aft cabin bulkhead was a chest of drawers. I reused the drawer fronts on my rebuild. I ordered the cushions from a pontoon furniture builder. I was able to order with out the tacky stripes, etc. Thanks for the compliments, not really that hard but made a huge difference in the livabilty. If any one else wants as my Brit friends say a top notch chippy then I'm available.

*

Well it looks very good Daddyo! I thought the upholstry looked pre-made of sorts as you can see the lift loops in the seats for storage. I have looked at that type of cushions/seats for doing our bridge but those dumb ugly stripes they like to do turned me off. I will possibly have to circle back around to see what could be done without the stripes though I think for now we've decided to just keep our bridge built in seating.
good job though and you answered my question I was wondering how you got your drawers to match so well! Woodworking is one thing I can actually do and building stuff in the staterooms and cabin of our trawler has been the funnest part b/c I am actually good at that stuff and can go right to it. This other stuff I have to muddle my way through!

Carl,
I have not had to any refinishing of my interior teak as currently it is basically in great shape. I have one tiny, tiny, tiny discoloration spot where the seal on the forward opening salon window had a leak at the gasket but it is barely noticeable really and overall I would say the interior teak looks to be a 9.5 out of 10 maybe?? At some point I want to refinish my floors to get them super shiny but for now I am holding off on that as they look good already.

So...can't help yet for best finish on existing teak. my projects to date have been more the challange of matching new woods to the cabin interior. For my galley project I had to do a filler strip beneath the new countertops 4" wide and then a drawer front 4" wide below that. I played around with a combination of stains...part cherry stain, part golden chestnut, part colonial, to get the right color. I made several concoctions until I was pleased with the result. New teak that can be bought today is not like old teak and really not a good color match overall. Surprisingly, I found some dark pieces of western red cedar, when properly stained with a satin finish match pretty darn good.

For the new bunk bed project I decided I would spend the extra $$ to get a specialty wood to match so I just stained a 1x12 whitewood board (pine) that i selected with minimal knots. I again stained with a concoction to match. It came out pretty good.

Proper finishing is absolutely the make or break part of the work and I am still working on best finishes as I look at other projects. I have a very good friend who owns an incredible cabinet shop so he's able to advise as well as I get into finish questions.

Old Stone wrote:So guys - What finish do you apply to your teak interiors?

Click to expand...

We have switched to Daly's SeaFin AquaSpar Satin.* http://www.dalyspaint.com/PDF/specs/S-SAquaSpar.pdf* They call it a "waterborne polyurethane spar varnish."* It is intended for marine use but another use listed is for wood floors.

We first used it on a teak parquet floor panel in our forward head.* It looks great but this panel gets no wear--- it just supports the toilet.* So about two years ago we stripped and refinished the teak step inside our main cabin door. This step is used constantly and is abused by the dog going in and out, dirt on shoes, and so on.* We figured it would be a good test of the durability of the finish.* Today, two years later of year-round use, the step looks the same as it did when we first refinished it.* So we're pretty impressed.

We use the satin variety--- it comes in a gloss variety, too.* However, the more coats of satin you put on the shinier it becomes.* I think I put about eight or ten coats on the step.* While it has a definite shine, the surface is not glossy or glass-like.* Since interior teak does not get the weathering that exterior teak does, one really doesn't have to put on eight or ten coats, particularly on low-wear pieces.* So if one wants less of a satin "shine," applying fewer coats of AquaSpar will protect the wood in most cases just as well as a lot of coats.

At this point we would use it on any interior teak we wanted to refinish or repair.* Sometime in the future we want to refinish our main cabin sole which has been scarred and scratched and dinged after 37 years of use.* Assuming the AquaSpar finish continues to hold up on the step, this is the finish we will use on the floor.

If you want a really tough finish, Bristol is available in satin as well as exterior gloss.* But Bristol is expensive, worth it in our opinion for exterior work but perhaps not for interior jobs.* We've not used Bristol satin so cannot comment on its appearance.* At this point, we would stick with the AquaSpar.

*

"So guys - What finish do you apply to your teak interiors?"

I have been using Minwax satin polyuerethane and it matches my interior perfectly.

Click to expand...

*minwax gloss from homedepot 13$

jleonard wrote:

"So guys - What finish do you apply to your teak interiors?"

I have been using Minwax satin polyuerethane and it matches my interior perfectly.

Click to expand...

I forgot to add, that is the same final coat I have been putting on the 2 new projects I just did but the challenge for me was getting the new stain to match!

jleonard wrote:

I have been using Minwax satin polyuerethane and it matches my interior perfectly.

Click to expand...

What did you do for prep before using the polyuerthane?* I asume you used it over varnish?* I just ordered a quart of varnish today for $67.00.* I can get polyurethane here a lot cheaper and we are thinking of starting to change in some high wear areas.

Larry/Lena
Zihuatanejo, MX*

"What did you do for prep before using the polyuerthane?* I asume you used it over varnish?"

I only did a very light sanding (150 grit) to clean the dirt, not to remove all traces of finish. I don't know if it had varnish originally, I assume not because the poly matches so well.* I bought the boat from a widow so I did not have a lot of history other than their engine log.

I don't know if it had varnish originally,

This is always the first question.

Many early TT were shellac ,as 8 coats could be sprayer on in one day , and touch up is EZ.