Recommendations for a new windlass

The friendliest place on the web for anyone who enjoys boating.
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

OldSchool

Newbie
Joined
Jan 5, 2011
Messages
3
We have recently purchased a 42' 1984 Present Sundeck Trawler-- missing entirely its windlass.*In my former sailing life on a 45' yawl, with several ocean crossings and many nights at anchor in foreign ports in my past, I am inclined to want to use all chain with whatever new windlass we end up with, but, again, I am hoping the trawler experts can offer some experienced suggestions. The boat is currently in*St. Marks, FL, 6 miles upriver from the Gulf of Mexico*but it looks like we will be bringing it to Mystic, CT this summer. Thanks for any and all advice!*
 
When the big no-name windlass that came on our boat sheared a couple of gear teeth (with no significant strain on the windlass at the time) we did a lot of research into what to replace it with. We kept coming back to Lofrans, which, while expensive, is the standard windlass installed at the factory on boats like Grand Banks and Nordic Tugs. The model best suited for our size of boat is the Tigres.

With help from a retired marine engineer on our dock we did the installation ourselves using the same basic mount and wiring as the original windlass. If one wants or needs a horizontal-drum, above-deck windlass with a chain wildcat on one side and a line gypsy on the other, I think it's pretty hard to beat a Lofrans. They also make other configurations of windlass but the horizontal models are the only ones we looked into.

First two shots are of the boat's original windlass, last shot is the Lofrans Tigres.* The Tigres was often standard issue on GB42s.* GBs larger than 42' use the Lofrans one size larger-- I don't remember the model name.



-- Edited by Marin on Wednesday 5th of January 2011 03:05:53 PM
 

Attachments

  • tigres.jpg
    tigres.jpg
    136.9 KB · Views: 427
  • windlass2.jpg
    windlass2.jpg
    29.4 KB · Views: 1,192
  • windlass1.jpg
    windlass1.jpg
    23.4 KB · Views: 1,133
We have the same windlass marin has. ROCK solid and very beefy though definitely not cheap! Ours was on the boat when I bought it.
 

Attachments

  • nonskid 1.jpg
    nonskid 1.jpg
    108.6 KB · Views: 170
Wow! Thanks for the prompt replies! As an English teacher determined to overcome my (natural or, I think now, nurtured)*mechanical dyslexia in*service to my "new" trawler, I am thrilled to have found such*a valuable*resource...So there is no very cheap way to end up with a worthy windlass?...what a surprise. I teach*at a college several miles from*the Defender outlet, which currently has a Lewmar Pro Series 1000H in their 4-days-left clearance sale for $776. Not going to do it, huh?*Bracing for the lecture...
Very gratefully,
Mary**
 
OldSchool wrote:Not going to do it, huh?*Bracing for the lecture...
______________________________________________________________

I'd do it! Sure, there are more expensive windlasses out there, I have one, but I don't see how you can go wrong at this point in time. (better price than I saw on the Internet.)

*


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Wednesday 5th of January 2011 05:19:13 PM
 
The first thing I think you need to do is figure out what type of windlass you want or need. Horizontal drum, under-deck motor, vertical drum, etc. Once you've got that figured out then your search will be somewhat narrowed.

Then you need to figure out how much you'll be using the windlass. Are you going to be anchoring out a lot, some, very little? The amount of use and the type of use will help dictate just how beefy, fast, etc. a windlass you'll need.
 
Mary,

I installed a Lewmar Pro Series 1000 on our boat in 2006 and have been very pleased with it. BUT....check the Lewmar website (www.lewmar.com) and you will see the 1000 is recommended for boats up to 38'. Looks like you have a 42' sundeck so I would bet the Lewmar 1000 would be marginal for that size and weight of boat.

Also, as has been discussed at lenght on this site, always use a snubber line to secure the anchor chain to one or two cleats on the bow. You don't want the windlass taking the stress and strain of the anchor and rode. My boat is 33' on the deck and weighs only about 13,000 lbs so she's light weight. The Pro Series 1000 has worked well for our smaller boat.
 
Marin wrote:

The [Lofrans]*Tigres was often standard issue on GB42s.* GBs larger than 42' use the Lofrans one size larger-- I don't remember the model name.
FWIW, the Lofrans horizontal windlass recommended for boats 45' to 70' is the Falkon.

*
 
I love my Ideal and would replace it with same, except it'll probably outlive me!
 
Okay, I will be measured--and measuring. We anchored out a lot with the sailboat, but am guessing it will be less with the trawler. Also, I am used to the vertical windlass because of the sailboat (a 1972 Fastnet 45), so I don't have experience with the more limited angling of a horizontal setup. When the thunderstorms stop tomorrow, armed with all your suggestions, I will do some more recon on what appears to have been there, exactly what I have in terms of chain, where the existing holes are (centered or off centered)...and start looking for an adjunct position for the windlass savings account! I'll be back with more educated questions in a day or two. Thanks again!
PS, The ads for the Lewmar 1000H I looked at said for boats from 30 something up to 45 ft.--I did find that questionable. Maybe for a VERY light displacement 45?
 
How on earth would a windlass know how long a boat is? Would not displacement and length/size/weight of chain/anchor be more a better measurement for sizing a windlass? I can show you 44's that weight the same as some 25's (ok, maybe an exaggeration but you get the idea).
 
Woodsong wrote:

How on earth would a windlass know how long a boat is? Would not displacement and length/size/weight of chain/anchor be more a better measurement for sizing a windlass?
Yes, but......** Many, maybe most, boaters don't make the effort or take the time or bother to learn how to apply these factors to their buying decisions.* The simpler the decision process, the greater the volume of sales will be.* Everyone knows how long their boat is.* I would wager a lot of boaters don't know how much their boat weighs.

So you relate everything to boat length.* The typical boater can deal with a chart that says for this length of boat, buy---

This weight of anchor.
This size of anchor chain.
THis size of shackle.
This size of swivel (if they succumb to the hype that swivels are Good and*the more expensive the better
smile.gif
).
This size of windlass.

Start throwing things like boat weight, windage, wind strengths, current strengths, bottom characteristics, battery capacities, cable run lengths, alternator capacities, and so on into the mix and the average boater isn't going to have a clue, and worse, probably won't buy your product because you've made it too hard to figure out the right answer.

So keep it simple and make a sale.
 
Mike,
"Do you really believe that? 20 to 38 ft? The same windlass?"
I'm quite sure they mean the range presented would cover all extremes. If you had a VERY heavy 20' boat w lots of wind-age, 100% chain of over sized links, a huge Bruce anchor with intent to anchor in exposed places w a rocky lee shore. Then think of the opposite scenario for 38' and the 20 to 38' range becomes valid. If you've got average everything your'e good to go w a 29 footer.
OldSchool,
If you can easily afford it I don't see how you could go wrong w Marin's Tigress.

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Wednesday 5th of January 2011 11:00:45 PM
 
I went KISS & old school and found myself a nice (manual) Simpson-Lawrence 555 Sea Tiger.* Super easy to install and works great.* The hardest part was finding one!

I figured that if it's simple & reliable enough for the cruisers who go off the grid, it's good enough for me.
 
I am very happy with the Lofrans Tigres installed last year.
Steve W
 
Geez, I feel left out. My Maxwell has worked well and is used by many blue water boat builders. *Just asking---------------
 
Baltimore,
How does the Sea Tiger work? Vertical, horizontal, hand crank*** What?
Have you got pics? I'll look on the web.

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Thursday 6th of January 2011 06:00:25 PM
 
nomadwilly wrote:

Baltimore,
How does the Sea Tiger work? Vertical, horizontal, hand crank*** What?
Have you got pics? I'll look on the web.

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Thursday 6th of January 2011 06:00:25 PM
Eric:

The SL555 is a horizontal, dual-action hand crank unit.* Attached is a pic off the web, I don't have one handy of the installation on my boat. As I mentioned it isn't hi-tech, but it does have a reputation of being bulletproof.

They are out of production and difficult to find, but a Google Alert search turned one up after about 6 months.* There's a guy (in Scotland I think) who has a business providing parts and advice that sent some documentation to me.

http://www.slspares.co.uk/parts.php?product=Seatiger+555+Windlass


- Darrell

*
 

Attachments

  • seatiger.jpg
    seatiger.jpg
    165.6 KB · Views: 191
BaltimoreLurker wrote:

*
nomadwilly wrote:

Baltimore,
How does the Sea Tiger work? Vertical, horizontal, hand crank*** What?
Have you got pics? I'll look on the web.

-- Edited by nomadwilly on Thursday 6th of January 2011 06:00:25 PM
Eric:

The SL555 is a horizontal, dual-action hand crank unit.
They are out of production and difficult to find,
- Darrell
I cannot sit by and let this go.................
Unless you have a boat that is so small that you can quickly pull the anchor/chain up by hand a manual windless is a really bad idea.* There is a tendency to go ahead an stay anchored in a spot that you really should move out of if you need to crank up 200' of chain.... not to mention that unless you look like Popeye it is going to take a LONG time. We have spent plenty of times anchored way too close to a boat that came in late and set their manual windless and for one reason or another ended up too close to us for comfort.... which usually causes me to pull up and move ( in the south pacific I think the French cruisers did this on purpose to try to push other boats that were there first out of prime spots! )** On a trawler we have plenty of ability to recharge batteries and the weight of a windless isn't an issue... the only reason to go manual is because one is too cheap!
HOLLYWOOD

*
 
hollywood8118 wrote:... the only reason to go manual is because one is too cheap!
HOLLYWOOD
Pretty strong lingo but it's "on the mark."

*
 
... the only reason to go manual is because one is too cheap!
Much truth there, but my being cheap isn't the only reason.* There's no place in the Chesapeake I'll be laying out 200' of chain.* Nor did the installation require batteries, wiring, switches, fuses, etc., etc. * I love simple.



*
 
Why I'm suddenly interested in a manual windlass is that I am thinking of a system that would involve a rode for Willy of about 300' of 5/8" brait, 20' of 3/8" chain (heavy for a 30' boat, and a 33 or 44# claw anchor. In an emergency it could be pulled by hand. Centerstage in the retrieval system would be an electric capstan winch. There would also be (just ahead on the deck) the manual winch. I agree w Hollywood that pulling 200' of chain is unacceptable. But w this system only 20' of chain will need pulling by the hand winch.*All the rest with the capstan should be a walk in the park. So that's my interest in the manual winch.
 
nomadwilly wrote:

...I am thinking of a system that would involve a rode for Willy of about 300' of 5/8" brait, 20' of 3/8" chain (heavy for a 30' boat, and a 33 or 44# claw anchor. In an emergency it could be pulled by hand.
There are several sailboats in our part of the marina with this type of manual windlass on them.* Assuming that they are well made with a "life of the boat" reputation there is an advantage to extreme simplicity.* However, IIRC, these sailboats are all pretty small--- 36 feet is perhaps the largest one, and their anchors are not very large.* Mostly small CQRs.

I have pulled up our 44# Rocna by hand once when the original windlass on our boat sheared some teeth.* We were anchored in about 30' of water.* When the windlass packed up we were over the anchor and it was out of the bottom.* So there was just the 30' of chain and the anchor to pull up.

I'm admittedly not in the world's best condition, but I'm pretty strong, dont' have a bad back, and so on.* Hauling up that 44# anchor is something I would prefer not to have to do again.

If one doesn't trust their electric windlass, or think they may be in a postion where there's not enough power to run it, a manual windlass as backup as Eric suggests is a good idea if there's room for it on the foredeck.* Preferable, in my opinion, to relying on hauling the rode and anchor up by hand if the electric windlass fails.

*
 
My electric winch will be capstan only and the last of the rode will need to be winched up w the manual. If the capstan fails I'll need to pull up lots of line, 20' of 3/8" chain and the anchor (33 to 55#). Here is a currently available Manual winch found at Fisheries Supply. It's not in stock but they must be able to get it.*If I keep the Willy this is just one of my ideas.
 
nomadwilly wrote:

My electric winch will be capstan only and the last of the rode will need to be winched up w the manual.
There are electric windlasses that can pull both chain and line with the same drum.* I've not seen one in person, but I'm assuming the chain slots in the wildcat are shaped in such a way as to be able to grip line, too.* I believe these things were discussed awhile back under the topic of line-to-chain splices or something.* Would not one of these windlasses work for your application?

Having a manual windlass as a backup can be a good idea, but the notion of having to switch the rode to a totally different windlass every time you retrieve the anchor seems rather inefficient.* I can't remember if you said Willy has a chain locker or not, but if it does using two different windlasses to retrieve the anchor poses some issues with getting the rode down into the locker.* If you just keep your rode on deck I guess using two windlasses to retrieve the anchor's not that inconvenient.

*
 
Marin wrote:"There are electric windlasses that can pull both chain and line with the same drum.* I've not seen one in person, but I'm assuming the chain slots in the wildcat are shaped in such a way as to be able to grip line, too."


Most windlass's are made this way... I need to replace the current windless on our new boat as it is a Good mfg. all rode windless.... a P.O.S. in my mind for anything other than a deck boat!.
On the sailboat we cruised the Pacific we installed a Maxwell vertical drum windless and it was a great unit.. it hauled 250' of chain up all the time with 0 issues in the 3 years we used it. ( side note.. we used the house bank for the windless so we had a cable run to add of about 25/30' to power the unit... i don't agree with dedicated windless batteries)*
In calm weather a manual windless will lift the chain/anchor if time isn't an issue. But.... I have witnessed dozens of incidents over the years where the only chance for the survival of a yacht with a manual windless would have been to dump all the rode/chain to get out of harms way.*
We had a incident in Fiji in front of the Royal Suva Yacht Club where a un- expected blow from the south exposed the anchorage to 5' waves and over 1/2 the boats drug anchor ( us included ). I had to power our 35' sail boat with all her 40hp at full throttle into the maelstrom with a friend standing on the windless switch of a Maxwell 1100lb pull windless. We were dragging down on one of the few boats still in place ( it had the same size Bruce and chain as we had )* It would of been IMPOSSIBLE* to do anything with a lesser windless. Powered windless are as much a safety device as a luxury... in the "old" days when manual windless* were in vogue anchorages were not crowded and this wasn't as much of a concern.
How many times would any of you stayed put in a spot you anchored in that wasnt "right" if you had to spend 10/15 minutes cranking a damn handle back and forth in 95% humidity and 95 degrees in the blazing sun???

I thought so!
HOLLYWOOD
 
Marin wrote:If one doesn't trust their electric windlass, or think they may be in a postion where there's not enough power to run it, a manual windlass as backup as Eric suggests is a good idea if there's room for it on the foredeck.* Preferable, in my opinion, to relying on hauling the rode and anchor up by hand if the electric windlass fails.
I apologize if I'm not understanding the problem but don't most electric windlasses
have a mechanical set up where you can crank them by hand? Mine does & is a
combination chain & line as well.?????????????



Atlantic 1200 (Premium Model) - Pleasure - The World Power In Anchoring Systems - Storm, Atlantic, Compact Winches

<a href="http://www.muir.com.au/pleasure/atlantic-1200-premium-model.html">
</a>


-- Edited by SeaHorse II on Friday 7th of January 2011 04:17:09 PM
 

Attachments

  • muir 1000.jpg
    muir 1000.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 97
SeaHorse II wrote:
I apologize if I'm not understanding the problem but don't most electric windlasses
have a mechanical set up where you can crank them by hand? Mine does.Sadly, no. The one that came with our boat does not. It worries me. Not that it can't be remedied by throwing some boat units at it.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom