New construction: She:Kon

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Good progress, Rick. It's starting to look like a monolithic structure. Really nice work.:thumb:
 
Rick,
All sounds well to excellent except the 18x 13 prop. I have much less power (37hp is what Mitsubishi says) and a 2.57-1 gear w an 18 x 13 3 blade prop. Quite sure you'll be well underpropped. And you,v'e got a faster boat. But thosen older Yanmars made their power at 3800rpm so it's possible you won't be far off. Probably be running her about 2800 to 3000rpm.

Some here have access to a prop prediction curve that along w your displacement and speed expectations will probably come closer to what you'll need.
 
Rick,
All sounds well to excellent except the 18x 13 prop. I have much less power (37hp is what Mitsubishi says) and a 2.57-1 gear w an 18 x 13 3 blade prop. Quite sure you'll be well underpropped. And you,v'e got a faster boat. But thosen older Yanmars made their power at 3800rpm so it's possible you won't be far off. Probably be running her about 2800 to 3000rpm.
Hi Eric

I used the boatdiesel.com calc to give me some idea of what I'd need in a prop. The one we have now we got in a fire sale ($275) so I snatched it up. It's unlikely it'll be ideal but will make a good 'get 'er home' prop should we ding up a screw somewhere.

Here's what I input into the online calc at boatdiesel.

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And the calculated results.

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This will be my first diesel boat so I'm sure I'll have plenty to learn. I heard these ole' Yammy's like to run at about 3/4 throttle so that'll be somewhere like you said in the 2800 RPM range.

Thanks for looking in. I appreciate all the feedback.
 
Ken,
With the soft or gentle curve of the rocker on the bottom you'll probably be able to cruise at 8 or 9 knots on fairly flat water. Your rocker is similar to an early Albin 25. I had one and cruised 8.5 knots w a max of 10.5. Powered by a Yanmar 3HM35F (34hp). I ran 2750rpm. But you're right .. that's a good start. You can increase pitch and as a substitute for pitch you could cup it some.
J
Engines are never "happy". It's best for them to run when they are loaded enough to get nice and toasty warm w a light rather than heavy load and don't get too hot. I think that expression applies to owners that experience a low point of vibration. It's where owners are "happy" .. not engines. With those soft mounts and a stiff hull you may experience little vibration. I had harmonics on my Albin but the annoying vibration may have come from the hull .. indirectly of course.

You've got a very efficient hull bordering on SD. Much like a boat called Handy Billy. Billy has a lot more deadrise than yours though but it has the same style of rocker aft. I think you'll be amazed at your boat's performance.
 
Sometimes you think you've done everything right. Pre-wetted the surface. Wetted out the back of the fabric. Squeegeed it once. Peel plied and squeegeed again. Just like the books says to do it and it all goes to sh*t!

Bubbles! Frackin' Bubbles. Damn!



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That's the worst part. I screwed up. Details in the web log: M/V She:Kon: Tiny Bubbles

I'm going to go soak my head now! :banghead:
 
That is rough.

Say Rick.What your thoughts on stitch and goo for big boats?

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That is rough.

Say Rick.What your thoughts on stitch and goo for big boats?

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Wise guy!

I wanted to build in aluminum but it was well above my pay grade. :ermm:

I'm sure there are bigger boats built using this or similar methods. Would I do it again? NO! But we live and learn.

You can fix pretty much any screw up with enough epoxy & fiberglass! :dance:

Spent 2-1/2 hrs grinding my sins away with my new 'Mini WMD'! What a great tool for gobbling up bad fiberglassing!

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I have one of these flappy style discs on my 4" grinder and it has a ravenous appetite! The little 2" disc on the die grinder was the perfect tool for grinding out the bubbles. Probably saved me a couple of hours with my head stuck in the keel. A right angle die grinder would have been even easier.

All that above and more gibberish on the web log which I just updated: M/V She:Kon: Mini WMD
 
I see you put two and two together with the stiff glass cloth and many bends.I know it sucks,but making more layers with thinner cloth,may help prevent trapped air pockets.I use a 4.5 inch angle grinder.My compressor doesn't have the CFM to power and air hungry air grinder.Have you thought about your choice of bilge coatings?I think now would be a good time to prep for it.What do you think?
 
Have you thought about your choice of bilge coatings?I think now would be a good time to prep for it.What do you think?
Oh I dunno. Probably the same primer I used on the bottom then paint over that. Once I get some structure in I'll have a look see what I can get.
 
Wise guy!

I wanted to build in aluminum but it was well above my pay grade. :ermm:

I'm sure there are bigger boats built using this or similar methods. Would I do it again? NO! But we live and learn.

You can fix pretty much any screw up with enough epoxy & fiberglass! :dance:

Spent 2-1/2 hrs grinding my sins away with my new 'Mini WMD'! What a great tool for gobbling up bad fiberglassing!

spacer.gif
img_347325_1_eeda53e85afa797c414da3b46b9cbd13.jpg


I have one of these flappy style discs on my 4" grinder and it has a ravenous appetite! The little 2" disc on the die grinder was the perfect tool for grinding out the bubbles. Probably saved me a couple of hours with my head stuck in the keel. A right angle die grinder would have been even easier.

All that above and more gibberish on the web log which I just updated: M/V She:Kon: Mini WMD


Great info??


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's
✌️
 
Working smaller sections that I can handle easier. Hope is to spend more time building than fixing up screw ups! We'll see how it works. So far so good.

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Just one 4' section done along the starboard side. Getting hot today so called it quits at 11:00 when the temp in the shed hit 33C. I'll try to get 3 x 4' sections done tomorrow. I did do the back end of the keel in smaller sections and it worked out fine.

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Web log updated: M/V She:Kon: Slow & Steady
 
Another 12' section of the keel done. Going to try to wrap up this first layer in the box keel nonsense in a couple of days.

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Next step will be bottom on the port side. I have to order some more glass for the starboard side.

Standby....
 
That is a lot of glass going into your boat.Does the plans call for all of this glass reinforcing?
 
That is a lot of glass going into your boat.Does the plans call for all of this glass reinforcing?

Yup. Three layers inside. 17 oz 45/45, 12 oz 0/90 & finishing cloth 8-10 oz plain weave.

Bottom panels will get 1 x 33 oz triax & 1 x 12 oz 0/90 and that's it.
 
Yup. Three layers inside. 17 oz 45/45, 12 oz 0/90 & finishing cloth 8-10 oz plain weave.

Bottom panels will get 1 x 33 oz triax & 1 x 12 oz 0/90 and that's it.


WoW! Thats way more than I thought.Your hull in gonna be 1.5 inches thick when you're done.:eek:
 
Ken,
Are there going to be any stiffeners like mini bulkheads in that keel?
Any ballast .. probably not thinking of the speed of this hull.
Perhaps a little bulkhead and an intermediate shaft bearing?
 
Ken,
Are there going to be any stiffeners like mini bulkheads in that keel?
Any ballast .. probably not thinking of the speed of this hull.
Perhaps a little bulkhead and an intermediate shaft bearing?


You mean Rick?
 
Eric can call me Ken if he likes Ben! :lol:

It's a little bit too early in the morning to put on my thinking cap without coffee so I did a lil' doodle.

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There are 4 divisions of the box keel at frame C, E, F2 & G. The frame just aft of F2 by 8" is there to accommodate the Python Drive (Pythondrive The ideal flexible and vibration-free drive unit).

Ballast will be dependent on trim and an inclining test. Most of this model that have been build have all been light int he bow. I'm estimating 1500 lbs.

Warning! Drawing is not to scale and was produced without the benefit of caffeine. :facepalm:
 
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LOL


Have you decided on ballast type,lead,sand,concrete,steel,feathers?
 
Have you decided on ballast type,lead,sand,concrete,steel,feathers?

Lead. So far I have 467.54 lbs.

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That's 'nuff to make 18386 50 Cal (178 grain) musket balls. :D
 
1/2 forward section of the box keel glass laid out.

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Epoxied & Peel Plied.

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That's all I could get done this morning before I had to leave on a humanitarian mission to help a friend out. :D Other side should get done tomorrow morning.

Standby...
 
Are you planning to cast that lead into shape?

Good work getting that glass laid in.
 
Are you planning to cast that lead into shape?

As you see it. Stacks well. Once boat is finally trimmed out I'll epoxy it into place.

First layer on box keel done! Yeah! :dance:

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Not pretty but I can live with it. Got some cleaning up to do on the bottom panel, port side, then it'll be ready for glass & goop!

Few more pics & nonsense on the latest blog update: M/V She:Kon: 2 Day Update
 
I don't know about epoxying everything is place.I find that I change stuff to much to do that.

Looks purdy gud to me.Ain't gotta be show car purdy.Good enough to hold bilge coat and shed water to the bilge pump.
 
Removed the uprights & cross bars from the rolling frame. Thank The Maker they're out of the way. It'll be pleasant 'Not' smashing my head on them constantly! :banghead:

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Birds Eye View

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Port side bottom panel will get glassed next. Just have to go round with the sander and dress up some fabric edges & shiny spots.

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It'll be a 'Big Pour'. IIRC the time we did the outside bottom it took 11 hrs & 3 1/2 gallons of epoxy and that was with a helper mixing goop.

Standby...
 
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While waiting for supplies to arrive I did a lil' bit of work on the stringers in between rain storms.

Web log updated: M/V She:Kon: Stringers
 

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