Deck paint problem

Ok we repainted our aft deck this past spring . We used 1 prt poly Interlux . We cleaned it and primed it first . Then put on two coats paint . Last coat I added some color flakes to help hide some defects . Now I'm thinking we should have used two part paint . This stuff doesn't seem like it dried all the way . After sitting in deck chairs and moving back and forth its peeling paint up . I guess I laid the paint on too heavy and it dried on top and not underneath . This is not pretty .
What is going to be our best method of fixing this ? It's not going to strip very well because of nonskid .

Pack Mule said:

Ok we repainted our aft deck this past spring . We used 1 prt poly Interlux . We cleaned it and primed it first . Then put on two coats paint . Last coat I added some color flakes to help hide some defects . Now I'm thinking we should have used two part paint . This stuff doesn't seem like it dried all the way . After sitting in deck chairs and moving back and forth its peeling paint up . I guess I laid the paint on too heavy and it dried on top and not underneath . This is not pretty .
What is going to be our best method of fixing this ? It's not going to strip very well because of nonskid .

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My experience with Intersections from Interlux is it is fine though not quite as tough as 2 part but a lot easier to apply by myself.

It does dry hard, but needs to go on thin. It also needs a well sanded, clean surface....especially free from any 2 part mixture underlayings such as epoxy, poly fillers, etc.

I just bought 2 more quarts of gray, the white just shows the dirt too much. I will probably use this till I fully retire and can take the time to explore other deck coverings.

Greetings,
Mr. PM. OK, so don't repaint but maybe lay down this stuff?

https://www.dri-dek.com/

Here is a pic of what it's doing .

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PM. OK, so don't repaint but maybe lay down this stuff?

https://www.dri-dek.com/

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Good idea but man that stuff is pricey and if you remember we can square dance on this deck . Thanks

Bummer. What's the non-skid that you used?

Greetings,
Mr. PM. Oh, I know full well that stuff is pricey AND if you have any hatches mid deck, it's a real PI the A to move about, difficult to clean under and I think you mentioned pricey. Did I mention pricey as well? I know you don't want to hear this as I think I have a bit of insight as to your personality but you may have to live with the peeling for a bit until it gets totally unbearable and then strip the crap off and start over. What about a patio carpet? They're made for outdoor exposure...

Larry M said:

Bummer. What's the non-skid that you used?

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The non-skid was already down and I'm not sure what it is . But it doesn't sand off . It's almost like rock . It might be sand . When they took the reel out of the deck they had a huge hole to fill maybe 6' x 6 ' and it did not any non- skid just the texture from fiberglass mat . I have a lot of different textures going on here that was the reason for the garage floor flakes . I put the last coat on a little heavy so the flakes would maybe lay down in the paint . We are usually pretty good with paint but I flew the coop on this . It's ok everywhere else with the exception of where we sit in the chairs . When it rolls up from sitting in the chairs it feels a little gummy like it never dried . It almost feels like rubber base ( latex ) paint . Would you strip it and start over ?

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PM. Oh, I know full well that stuff is pricey AND if you have any hatches mid deck, it's a real PI the A to move about, difficult to clean under and I think you mentioned pricey. Did I mention pricey as well? I know you don't want to hear this as I think I have a bit of insight as to your personality but you may have to live with the peeling for a bit until it gets totally unbearable and then strip the crap off and start over. What about a patio carpet? They're made for outdoor exposure...

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Yes we thought of that . Just cover it up . Out of sight out of mind. I have a problem of pointing my screw ups . Joy says STFU and nobody will notice it .

Marty, Interlux has a pretty good customer service department. I think you should give them a call and maybe send them the picture. I'd give you a name, but my "guy" at Interlux recently retired. I doubt there is any way to fix it without stripping it and starting over.

Greetings,
Mr. PM. "...I have a problem of pointing my screw ups..." Yup, I thought you might, hence my reference to me thinking I know a bit about your personality (post #7). I'm pretty much the same and MY "Joy" says the same thing yours does. I know EXACTLY how you feel at this point BUT take Joy's advice for the time being and relegate the situation to the bottom of the "to do" list, don't worry about it. There's ALWAYS tomorrow. Just think, you can do a year of research and decide on exactly the right solution. A re-paint may NOT be in the cards. As for right now...Party time!

RT Firefly said:

...but you may have to live with the peeling for a bit until it gets totally unbearable and then strip the crap off and start over. What about a patio carpet? They're made for outdoor exposure...

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Pack Mule said:

Would you strip it and start over ?

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I'd live with it for the time being. It's a deck/floor right? Summers here.

Then at some point, strip it and at the same time think about fairing/refinishing the base for a smooth finish to accept a 2 part. For complete removal of the 1 part you may have to anyway. Two part paints can be rolled on.

I don't know about carpet on 1 part polyurethane but I know on 2 part paints, if the carpet holds any moisture (I know now your under cover), the paint will blister. Two part polyurethanes are not made for constant contact with moisture.

Greetings,
Mr. LM. "... if the carpet holds any moisture... the paint will blister." Excellent! Passive coating removal. THAT'S the ticket and since Mr. PM is under cover, he can wet the carpet down on a regular basis and keep the area cool at the same time. Win/win.

Larry M said:

I'd live with it for the time being. It's a deck/floor right? Summers here.

Then at some point, strip it and at the same time think about fairing/refinishing the base for a smooth finish to accept a 2 part. For complete removal of the 1 part you may have to anyway. Two part paints can be rolled on.

I don't know about carpet on 1 part polyurethane but I know on 2 part paints, if the carpet holds any moisture (I know now your under cover), the paint will blister. Two part polyurethanes are not made for constant contact with moisture.

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Yep...one part lifts with constant moisture also...

However, I have a thin, cheap piece of indoor/outdoor carpet o my flybridge for 3 years with no ill effects over Interlux brightside with non skid stirred in. Like fleece fabric...it really doesn't stay wet as the water goes right through and dries in hours or so.

Greetings,
Mr. ps. Party pooper.

Marty I think your Interlux (Brightside?) is probably just fine. We painted our afterdeck w Brightside. The guy at Harbor Marine recomended it when I asked about deck paint. Said it worked for him. It's been fine on Willy except where we used aluminum chairs. The contact point was the round part of a tube. Not the cutoff end of a tube. The leg formed a loop so the contact point is like the side of a tube. I thought it would be OK but it did scrape some small bits of paint off.

I'm sure if we used something like rubber on the bottoms of the chair legs all would be fine. I don't think you need any two part or other high tech stuff. So I'd remove the paint that "didn't look like it dried" and recoat after wiping down well with an appropriate solvent ... perhaps Interlux 216 special thinner. Just good standard prep and Brightside.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. ps. Party pooper.

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...that's me.... just a .....

Greetings,
Mr. mb. I disagree. The area being scuffed by the chairs is indicative, to me, of poor adhesion. It's unlikely that the adhesion problem is limited solely (see what I did there?) to the small area the chairs inhabit. Eventually, I suspect, Mr. PM will experience coating failure at other points as well. Possibly in heavy traffic areas like along deck edges and door openings. Throwing good paint after bad is not the best solution IMO.

Mr. ps. Well, I call 'em as I see 'em...

Larry M said:

I'd live with it for the time being. It's a deck/floor right? Summers here.

Then at some point, strip it and at the same time think about fairing/refinishing the base for a smooth finish to accept a 2 part. For complete removal of the 1 part you may have to anyway. Two part paints can be rolled on.

I don't know about carpet on 1 part polyurethane but I know on 2 part paints, if the carpet holds any moisture (I know now your under cover), the paint will blister. Two part polyurethanes are not made for constant contact with moisture.

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If we do decide at some point to strip and repair the surface smooth to start over , how can we be sure that we get good adhesion with the fairing compound ? We used some in some areas that were pretty bad . We used quick fair and it did pretty good . I drilled some shallow holes so the epoxy would have something to hang on to . Is this a good idea and would you do it over the entire deck ?Or is there a better way to make sure the epoxy gets a good hold ? This non-skid will not grind off even with 40 grit . If we strip it we will probably have to pressure wash because if the nonskid . If I just walked up and saw what was going on with the peeling I would have thought it was latex paint .

I have seen spray poly from a can ....like Krylo have similar wrinkling when applied over some paints.

Could be an I compatability issue...but without specifics and a paint pro....I wouldn't know.

Polyurathane paints will get rubbery if applied thick and might fail in a wrinkle mode if the cars shift with weight in them.

Usually failed paint is a widespread problem...but as was suggested...a wait and see what else fails may be good. Waiting for cooler, dried weather in the early fall for painting is usually good anyhow.

Based on the pictures it looks like poor adhesion and it looks like it perhaps didn't fully dry yet either. I'm guessing your last coat was to thick. It may dry over time and continue to bond. But in the mean time it will peel off.

Your best bet is to remove that layer, (or at least the areas that are not adhering correctly) sand properly and repainted laying down a thinner coat or two.

Greetings,
Mr. PM. Ya know....if you got that Grand Banks, you wouldn't have to worry about your current deck any more...Just sayin'...

The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes incl 2 pack, and for leveling floors for refinishing. You could explore that, you may be able to hire them from DIY equipment hire places. They use smaller hand machines for corners and edge detailing, they may not be aggressive enough for your job.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. PM. Ya know....if you got that Grand Banks, you wouldn't have to worry about your current deck any more...Just sayin'...

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Nice thought . That boat has some sweet lines and plenty of room . But I would have to live aboard to afford it .
Let's get everyone onboard here . I could just install teak decks and be done . I did a quick figure and if I bought 5/4 teak and re sawed it and got two pcs out I could cover the deck for about 1800 in material cost or if is used 4/ 4 and milled it thick I could get by for around 2200 material .

BruceK said:

The house floor sanding operators use vicious machine mounted drum sanders for stripping old timber floor finishes incl 2 pack, and for leveling floors for refinishing. You could explore that, you may be able to hire them from DIY equipment hire places. They use smaller hand machines for corners and edge detailing, they may not be aggressive enough for your job.

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Good idea . I know a few of those flooring guys . They would love a chance to do something different . I work for a hardwood lumber company and we make a semi load of hardwood flooring everyday .

Pack Mule said:

Nice thought . That boat has some sweet lines and plenty of room . But I would have to live aboard to afford it .
Let's get everyone onboard here . I could just install teak decks and be done . I did a quick figure and if I bought 5/4 teak and re sawed it and got two pcs out I could cover the deck for about 1800 in material cost or if is used 4/ 4 and milled it thick I could get by for around 2200 material .

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You could but ... You would still have to prep the deck to accept the teak/TDS which means you'd have to remove the 1 part, fill, fair the decks, drainage, etc., plus the extra weight. We have both teak and non-skid decks and at the end of the day, if I was starting from scratch, the non-skid wins.

Larry M said:

You could but ... You would still have to prep the deck to accept the teak/TDS which means you'd have to remove the 1 part, fill, fair the decks, drainage, etc., plus the extra weight. We have both teak and non-skid decks and at the end of the day, if I was starting from scratch, the non-skid wins.

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Yes I agree the prep work is going to be a chore by itself . I think the primer took hold its the last coat of paint that didn't take . I know better than to lay it on too thick . We still have forward deck to do . Going take a different approach with thinner coats and maybe forget the color flakes .

We refinished our fore decks 2.5 years ago using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Sanded using a standard random orbital sander, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules down evenly. We used a varnish roller.

There are easier alternatives such as KiwiGrip which has a very good reputation.

KiwiGrip | Non-Skid System

Larry M said:

We refinished our fore decks 2.5 years ago using a 2 part polyurethane. We prepped using epoxy to fill holes and nicks. Sanded using a standard random orbital sander, then rolled on an epoxy primer and sanded again. We then rolled on the AwlGrip, one coat and sprinkled on the non-skid. Then went back and rolled on one more coat. The hardest part was practicing to get the non-skid granules down evenly. We used a varnish roller.

There are easier alternatives such as KiwiGrip which has a very good reputation.

KiwiGrip | Non-Skid System

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Was your surface smooth to begin with or did you have to remove some non-skid? The
non-skid that the PO used on William is really tough .I've tried to grind with 40 grit and it's like rock and it's layed on thick .

Pack Mule said:

Was your surface smooth to begin with or did you have to remove some non-skid? The
non-skid that the PO used on William is really tough .I've tried to grind with 40 grit and it's like rock and it's layed on thick .

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The non-skid that was on there sanded fairly easily. We think it was AwlGrip which is a polymer. That's what we used to renew the decks and swim platform.