Removing Old Seacocks and Through Hulls

Talking of seacocks.
I discovered 4 of mine were seized when doing preventive maintenance before heading off to France. The old seized ones were bronze gate valves and the internal threaded screw that withdraws the gate had eaten away and the handle just kept spinning.
After some sweat and swearwords we replaced all of them on the boat with lever ball cock type and now we can see at a glance when any are open or closed.
Why oh why don't boat builders give more thought to access and replacement, life would be so much easier.

IR,
Any chance you grabbed some pics?? I have one gate valve I need to "freshen up". We're the parts readily available ??


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's

Finally getting ready to install the new gear. This is about 90%'of what's going in (thanks again, Parks, for a great deal.)



The tech at Groco recommends using 5200 to bond the backing plates to the hull. I know it's permanent and I can't think of a reason I'd ever remove the plates--since I'm using flange adapters, both the through hulls and the seacocks can be replaced while the backing plates and flange adapters remain bonded to the boat.

Anybody see a problem using 5200 to bond the backing plates to the hull vs glassing them in (which is probably MORE permanent) as the excellent Compass Marine how-to shows?

5200 sets slowly , about a week to full strength , even with water poured on it to speed the setting process.

Epoxy is usually good to go O' nite.

No... I have the same flanges and bolts sticking up but made my back king plates from epoxy and glass an epoxies them down.

5200 should be fine...even 4200.

ANODIC
Corrodes easily
MAGNESIUM
ZINC
ALUMINUM ALLOYS
CADMIUM
MILD STEEL
CAST IRON
NICKLE CAST IRON
ALUMINIUM BRONZE
BRASSES
TIN
COPPER
LEAD-TIN SOLDERS
ALUMINIUM BRASS
MANGANESE BRONZE
SILICON BRONZE
TIN BRONZES
STAINLESS STEEL 400-
NICKEL SILVER
NICKEL - CHROMIUM ALLOY
LEAD
COPPER NICKEL
BRONZE
NICKEL - SILVER
COPPER - NICKEL ALLOY
SILVER SOLDER
NICKEL
SILVER
STAINLESS STEELS 302-304
MONEL
STAINLESS STEELS 316-317
TITANIUM
GOLD
PLATINUM
GRAPHITE
CATHODIC
Won’t Corrode

Wow, Thats a lot of thru hulls, pretty tho. I struggled trying to reduce the number on my trawler and finally decided a sea chest would be the way to go. I've always used 5200. The fitting can be removed later if you absolutely have to with a propane torch but its PITA.

Angus, Thanks for the order!

Things sure are easier in the movies.

Parks- another real man here- more than willing to wield his tube of 5200!!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's

Forkliftt said:

Parks- another real man here- more than willing to wield his tube of 5200!!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's

Click to expand...

Well, sort of willing, if you mean me. I did use 5200 to bond the backing plates to the flange adapters.



But I wimped out on using it to bond the backing plate assemblies to the hull. Went with reinforced epoxy instead. I'll know tomorrow how the first one did.

Angus, real men use epoxy too. You'll never need to remove the backing plates and if you ever need to remove the flanged adapters, unlikely, just heat them with a torch or heat gun. They'll pop right off.

HopCar said:

Angus, real men use epoxy too. You'll never need to remove the backing plates and if you ever need to remove the flanged adapters, unlikely, just heat them with a torch or heat gun. They'll pop right off.

Click to expand...

Agree, Parks. I was back at it today and have seven of the flange/backing plate assemblies epoxied into the sea chest. It's going to take dynamite to get those suckers off.

Lookin' pretty. Are they all going on that sea chest?

Eight in the sea chest, five in the hull. That's one less than I started with. I considered consolidating others, but didn't want to mess around with what seems to be working well currently for all the boat's systems. I will end up with two spares, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

Love the sea-chest. Wish I had one....great concept

Aquabelle said:

Love the sea-chest. Wish I had one....great concept

Click to expand...

It's a brilliant idea, alright. Wish I had a better picture. It's just in front of the starboard engine (this taken before I started swapping out through hulls). It consolidates all the ER through hulls in one easy-to-access place. A grate at the bottom keeps most larger debris from clogging the through hulls and a 1/2 inch piece of plexiglass on top lets you view them from the outside if the water's clear enough. I've heard that ALL the hull penetrations on Defevers allegedly are routed through the sea chest, but that would necessitate hose runs from the heads to the chest, one of them quite long. Plus I wouldn't want stuff from the heads or sinks discharged into the sea chest where it would be sucked into the engines, genset or AC. All of the plumbing system discharges on my boat are very close to the heads and on the sides of the hull, just below the waterline.

That is one clean looking Lehman 135!!


1983 Present 42 Sundeck
Twin Lehman 135's