Stanchion on top of cap rail

So last year I go through the process of stripping and refinishing the caprail with 2 coats cetol natural teal and 8 coats of Cetol Marine gloss. One wet winter later and the finish has failed at several of the joints. The freeze-thaw cycle is suspect was responsible. Kadey Krogen now uses a wider joint that is caulked with one of the 3M products similar to Black Sikka 291. So I'm going to try this approach by cutting out the joint, and in the process I have removed two stantions on each side on the foredeck to get access to the joints. In doing so, the culprit for the failure of that's year's refinishing is revealed as a considerable amount of water ran out of each stantion when they were released from the caprail:

...the stantions pipe water that is running off the hand rail down to the caprail joint, where it is held in place by the caulking at the base of the stantion. The joints become saturated with water and the finish fails.

I'm thinking of getting a channel ground on the underside of the stantion to let the water pass out the bottom. Another option might be to seal both ends, but there's also a loop through the mid part of the stantion that can also let in water and that would have to be sealed as well. Thoughts?




Jim
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How about a picture? I'm not really following your description.

In general I would not seal up the entrances to the stanchion, but instead provide drainage and a variety of techniques on the caprail to prevent standing water.

I would try this

Clean up and dry the joint under the stanchion, seal with penetrating epoxy. keep the caulking slightly low and varnish the coverboard/cap with Cetol. Install the stanchion caulking only the screw holes. If the caulk joint isn't a good gutter grinding a notch in the base of the stanchion would be a good idea. Cetol is the best varnish I've used for durability. I know there are detractors but in my experience it holds up the best. I have caprails going on 6 years now with Cetol in the California Delta and I just now having to touch up the exposed areas near the ends of the protective canvas covers.

A welded flange at the bottom bedded in the Sika-Flex 291 should solve that problem. I think my Willard is built that way. We removed the stanchions awhile back and don't recall any water running out.

Thanks Scary. I'm going to do just that. I'm also going to seal the top of the stantion by filling the tube with an inch of Sikaflex. I've also followed the process used by Kadey Krogen. I've opened the joints for a 1/4 gap that I will fill with black Sikaflex 291 or similar product from 3M.


Jim
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Here are some photos:



Upper stantion plate



Jim
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Jim: Here's a picture of one of our bases. Each has a drain hole. When we have refinished the cap rail, we did not remove the stanchions.

Thanks Larry. I didn't remove the stantions last year either, when I refinished the cap rail. There is no drain hole at the bottom, as yours do. My shipwright seems to think that sealing the top of the stantion is the way to go...but I'm open to ideas.

Incidentally, one of the "loops" that holds the life line between the cap rail and the hand rail was not welded. The rest of the stantions were welded at that point. Seems to be an oversight.

Jim
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JDCAVE said:

...I didn't remove the stantions last year either, when I refinished the cap rail. There is no drain hole at the bottom, as yours do. My shipwright seems to think that sealing the top of the stantion is the way to go...but I'm open to ideas...

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Jim: I think even with sealing the top (which is a good idea), you'll probably still get some moisture on the inside through condensation. The 1/8" drain hole does allow any moisture to escape. Our bases are also bedded with caulk.

Thanks Larry. Looking at your photo again, do any of the stantions on you boat straddle any joints? It doesn't seem that is the case in the photo you posted.


Jim
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JDCAVE said:

...Looking at your photo again, do any of the stantions on you boat straddle any joints? It doesn't seem that is the case in the photo you posted....

Click to expand...

Three of the 12 stanchion bases are on seams. We do not have the teak hand rails as you do though, that's why I think sealing the top section is a good idea.

Larry: your stantions are part of the hand rail, so they are capped off. I will cap mine off at the top.


Jim
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Larry M said:

Three of the 12 stanchion bases are on seams. We do not have the teak hand rails as you do though, that's why I think sealing the top section is a good idea.

Click to expand...

I don't know about the stainless steel, but that is some of the most beautiful water in the back ground that I have seen for some time.