Krogen Manatee owners question

Hey guys. I'm currently rebuilding the single step area from the bow to the pilothouse level and wondered how you felt about the size and safety of these steps. I've never fallen, but I've stumbled a few times when stepping down to the bow. I've got some good, old forest, heavy teak board that I could use to build bigger steps. All the glass work underneath is done. A larger step would require some easy modification of the area below to support the edge of the step, no problem. Is there any reason I shouldn't do this? Here's a photo of the repaired step area with the original teak board just laying in place. The larger step I have in mind would be half again as large. Thanks for any feedback.

I would do a larger step and an other SS hand rail on the side without one so both hands would have holds .

I've often thought of doing the same thing. Sometimes I just bypass the step and go straight to the lower deck, but not exactly the safest thing to do. I would go ahead, and will probably follow your lead once you post the pictures. I was thinking of shaping some sheet aluminum to put under the expanded step for extra strength. We also have a cable that runs from the lower railing to the upper railing that gives some measure of safety in that open area.

Have you thought about using the backside of a Vulcan? In all seriousness, I'd make it bigger.

I ordered two stainless steel grab rails to mount on the inboard side of each step to help make the step a little safer. A larger step would be a definite improvement.

Greetings,
Mr. hh. I know nothing about the layout of KK's but ANYTHING to improve overall safety aboard is a really good thing. Larger step, maybe even a platform type of deal (with extra supports underneath) AND extra handrails as suggested. None of us are getting any younger except maybe Mr. and Ms.(wifey) BB.

RT Firefly said:

Greetings,
Mr. hh. I know nothing about the layout of KK's but ANYTHING to improve overall safety aboard is a really good thing. Larger step, maybe even a platform type of deal (with extra supports underneath) AND extra handrails as suggested. None of us are getting any younger except maybe Mr. and Ms.(wifey) BB.

Click to expand...

Wifey B: With a birthday coming up it reminds me I'm now at an age I once considered old. Thing is, that will repeat itself. But now I've spent more time around some incredible older people and it doesn't frighten me anymore.

And to the OP, safety is always the most important thing. Larger step, hand rails. Great idea.

Yeah I guess I'll have to go with the larger steps. This morning I cut and formed larger copies of the originals. Now I'm at teak Hut looking for some pieces I can use for the supports beneath.

Here are originals to compare after cut.

healhustler said:

Yeah I guess I'll have to go with the larger steps. This morning I cut and formed larger copies of the originals. Now I'm at teak Hut looking for some pieces I can use for the supports beneath.

Click to expand...

They look good Larry . Can you use any of the old steps for the support ?

Pack Mule said:

They look good Larry . Can you use any of the old steps for the support ?

Click to expand...

Oh yeah, the supports. After hours of trial and painstaking
measurement, then mind-boggling application of algebraic formuli too complex and lengthy to publish here, I produced this precision triangular cardboard form measuring 2.5 x 2.5 x 2 inches x 15" wide. The fit was very close but didn't account for the slight belly in the glass below the step. I drove over to our local teak supplier and found two proper pieces to reproduce the form in teak. I'd rather do the support in matching teak so it can be removed easily with the step for recaulking.

Wifey B: I'm surprised you didn't just photoshop it...a lot less work.

BandB said:

Wifey B: I'm surprised you didn't just photoshop it...a lot less work.

Click to expand...

If only I could just do that. Maybe in the future, we'll all have virtual boating, and such wishful thinking will be all that's necessary.

Larry-with your Photoshop expertise, I am surprised you don't have a 3-D printer so you can just "print" the part!

Larry here's photos of the grab rails I installed yesterday that make the steps to the bow much safer. I got these from Great Lakes Skipper on Ebay, they are a bit pricey but look good and are 316 stainless and about 19" long. Rails come with 1/4 20 mounting bolts, I added starboard backing plates.
Bill

Hmm. Those look good and I do have some similar rails I got at the Dania Flea Market a couple of years ago. When you're stepping down, can you grab them easily?

Here's a shot of the new step with the necessary teak support angle resting below and ready to install beneath the increased hang-over. It does feel a bunch better, but that arrangement still feels awkward. Maybe the addition of the hand rail on the inside is all it needs now.

Larry the rails positioning was tested using my long arms and the admiral's shorter reach and they allow for a double handhold going down and up. I positioned them 3" out from the hatch edge and centered, also as I mentioned they are 19" long.
Your bigger steps look great, I may do that change because my size twelve's barely fit on the smaller steps, but the rails make for a much safer use.
Larry no PM received this am ?? I did recieve one yesterday from someone else so it worked then ??
Bill

Followed your lead on that grab handle, Bill, but the Admiral still complains and I’ll have to do something more to bring the new inboard rail closer to the height of the perimeter stanchions. I found two matched pair of port & starboard 1” rails like this at a local marine surplus store about a year ago for $159. At a sale, they dropped to $79 and then I saw them at $39 a month ago. I took them to a local welder and had him graft a 12” high by 42” long rectangle to the straight section, leaving the curved leg for lateral strength.

Heres the completed rail. I decided to turn them upside down and use the stabilizing leg under rather than over the hatch.

Here is one side installed with re-installed extra-large step. Admiral happy, and we know how important that is, don’t we? Although, she was not happy with the condition of the bow hatch doors and the crumbling paint. We took them off and brought them back to their natural teak perimeter.

Project finished.

Hi Larry, New member here. Love your Northsea model with the forward raked windows. Your added railing and wider steps looks great. Been reading some of yours and others past post of the blistering problem on the Manatee's. Has this been a problem for all of them? And I see that "Bottom Peel Jobs" have been done to take care of this. Is there a life span on that after it's been done? I would say that would be expensive and finding someone qualified to do it would be tough.

Tim

Capt. Tim said:

Hi Larry, New member here. Love your Northsea model with the forward raked windows. Your added railing and wider steps looks great. Been reading some of yours and others past post of the blistering problem on the Manatee's. Has this been a problem for all of them? And I see that "Bottom Peel Jobs" have been done to take care of this. Is there a life span on that after it's been done? I would say that would be expensive and finding someone qualified to do it would be tough.

Tim

Click to expand...

Tim: I’m just another Manatee owner, but well known among the Krogen owners is Osprey Composits in Maryland. They kinda pioneered the peal and glass method for Krogen cored hulls. I haven’t heard a Krogen owner comment on any hull breaches from blisters or conventional usage after their treatment. There are less expensive alternatives out there but none have inspired the same confidence or warranty. I had my own boat out for a new bottom job after a terrible previous experience at Indiantown. I had a bunch if pretty big blisters but apparently no breach into the core. I ground them out and let it sit for 100 days. No drips.

If you have a decent bottom, the care of these boats is reliant on good, regular bottom service and barrier coat paint. If it’s not a good bottom, a peal & glass job could cost you 25k at Osprey or you can get a similar job done for less than half that at yards here in FL. If you’re looking at a cored hullvessel, find yourself someone who loves their hammer and moisture meter. Have them check the areas of the through-hulls especially. If all else is well, discount the price of the boat for the cost of the job needed. If you like the boat, fix it. My $.02

Thanks Larry!
The work you’ve done to your Manatee looks great.