Oil change on Westerbeke 8.0 BTD

Time for the first oil change on the genset since we bought the boat. It's a Westerbeke 8.0 BTD, not sure of the age. It's red, but I think most Westerbekes are, so that probably doesn't help.

There is a heavy rubber hose - like fuel line material - coming from the bottom of the oil pan up to a bracket on the side of the engine. There is a threaded fitting on the end of the hose, with a brass cap on it that does two things - keeps the end of the hose closed, and also holds the hose in the bracket. (I took a picture of it, but can't find it on my phone right now.)

I'm assuming this is for extracting the oil from the oil pan, yes?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Sounds like my Westerbeke except our hose goes to a oil extraction pump. What says the WB book? Try it and see what happens.

If it is red and the hose goes to the bottom of the oil pan, that's the oil drain hose, get a sucker pump of some sort and drain it out. Oil filter can be crossed to WIX/NAPA on their website.

Ski in NC said:

Oil filter can be crossed to WIX/NAPA on their website.

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I found that on my Westerbeke 8.0 BTD that the space for the oil filter is too short for any of the non -Westerbeke filters. Ended up putting in an oil filter remote so I can use Wix filters and don't have to take the sound shield apart to change the oil.

If oil filter is too long, and yes I've run into that too on these, there are alternate WIX filters that are more "squat" and fit fine. The website gives lengths.

BrianSmith said:

I'm assuming this is for extracting the oil from the oil pan, yes?

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Yes. Remove the cap then the hose fitting can be removed from the holder. I just bend the hose down into an empty gallon jug to drain because I have full access. If not, use a pump to suck the oil out. You need to be sure the whole hose is below the oil pan fitting or it wont drain completely.
Removing the oil filter made a mess so be sure to place oil absorbant sheets under the engine. Next time I'll loosen the filter a little, punch a small hole in the shell, then rotate the hole down to a catch funnel. I used a NAPA 1334 filter which is about 1/2" longer than the Westerbeke filter. The NAPA filter fit, it just takes a little finesse to work around the generator bolt head that is right there.

High Wire said:

Yes. Remove the cap then the hose fitting can be removed from the holder. I just bend the hose down into an empty gallon jug to drain because I have full access. If not, use a pump to suck the oil out. You need to be sure the whole hose is below the oil pan fitting or it wont drain completely.
Removing the oil filter made a mess so be sure to place oil absorbant sheets under the engine. Next time I'll loosen the filter a little, punch a small hole in the shell, then rotate the hole down to a catch funnel. I used a NAPA 1334 filter which is about 1/2" longer than the Westerbeke filter. The NAPA filter fit, it just takes a little finesse to work around the generator bolt head that is right there.

Click to expand...

Sounds about right. The filter on it now isn't Westerbeke - I think it's a NAPA. Whatever it is, I ordered a couple of them online.

I've got a sound enclosure, so can't get the hose below the oil pan - but the PO left not one, not two, but three kinds of oil sucking devices onboard, so I'm sure one of them will do the trick.

I'll be changing the on-engine fuel filters at the same time - seems like having them off will give me a tiny bit better access to the oil filter.

Thanks!

I think you can take the bolt out, put filter on, then put bolt back in. If it gets in the way.

Ski in NC said:

I think you can take the bolt out, put filter on, then put bolt back in. If it gets in the way.

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I was holding the filter up to see how much more clearance I needed when I realized the filter was already in place! If you come up from below the bolt the NAPA 1334 goes right in. Now coming out will empty the filter can before you can get it clear.

OP here:

I added a quick-connect hydraulic coupler to the end of the oil extraction hose (to match up with the one on my 12V pump), and it worked like a charm. Changed the oil filter and both fuel filters at the same time. No biggie! And except for not getting one of the o-rings sealed properly the first time, it wasn't very messy at all. (Even that wasn't bad - I had my rags strategically placed.)

Thanks again, TrawlerForum!

Speaking of Westerbeke 8BDTs....

The last night of my trip mine started losing RPM and I thought it might be fuel related. It was about 2 hours into running g with medium load.

Yesterday, I started it, and it started right up....after about 20 minutes under medium load...it started the losing RPM routine...closely monitoring the panel...the oil pressure was wavering between 60 and 75. It finally fell a few times to 55 and I shut her down.

Anyone ever see this before or have ideas?

Not familiar with the engine....common for these to get some kind of blockage, or be sensitive to viscosity or level ?(checked be for running and within full low marks).

Oil pump? It may be 20 years old with about 5500 hrs on it.

if possibly an oil pump, hard to change?

Thanks

My 8.0 btd has a 3 cylinder Mitsubishi diesel. The 55 psi oil pressure is not a problem. My 1st place to look after your description of losing rpm would be the fuel system. The 2nd would be governor operation, it should open the rack to increase fuel as the load on the generator increases. What does the voltage drop down to when the rpm drop?

Bay Pelican has the same generator. Surprised that you can tell the RPMs are dropping as mine does not have that meter.

One thing to look at is the solenoid that controls the fuel intake. You can control the RPMs slightly with the settings. I have lost RPMs (I can measure the hertz output) when the connection between the solenoid and the throttle?? becomes loose. Wondering whether a reduction in the pulling power of the solenoid could have the same effect.

True guys...and thanks...I may be seeing a symptom with the cause being something else.

The fuel solenoid may be failing...have to check and see if when the genset warms up that the solenoid has a hard time keeping the rpm set. May be even just bad connections.

Thanks again

My experience with these fuel solenoids is they are most likely to not engage at start up rather than lose their holding power while running.

My 4.4 Westerbeke lost rpm once last summer for a few seconds. I believe it might be the fuel filter clogging. That's what mine sounded like anyway. I'll know soon after I do my spring filter changes.

jleonard said:

My experience with these fuel solenoids is they are most likely to not engage at start up rather than lose their holding power while running.

My 4.4 Westerbeke lost rpm once last summer for a few seconds. I believe it might be the fuel filter clogging. That's what mine sounded like anyway. I'll know soon after I do my spring filter changes.

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Thanks...I can't believe it's fuel clogging, relatively new fliter and great fuel.

As usual, a common problem would be nice....looks like detective work for now.

Is this a deisel

BrianSmith said:

Sounds about right. The filter on it now isn't Westerbeke - I think it's a NAPA. Whatever it is, I ordered a couple of them online.

I've got a sound enclosure, so can't get the hose below the oil pan - but the PO left not one, not two, but three kinds of oil sucking devices onboard, so I'm sure one of them will do the trick.

I'll be changing the on-engine fuel filters at the same time - seems like having them off will give me a tiny bit better access to the oil filter.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

Changing the engine fuel filter may require bleeding any air out of the filter. Since you sound uncertain about changing the engine oil, you may want to research what's involved. The lift pump, fuel pump, may have a lever to manually pump fuel through the system.

psneeld said:

Thanks...I can't believe it's fuel clogging, relatively new fliter and great fuel.

As usual, a common problem would be nice....looks like detective work for now.

Click to expand...

Most common cause of a gradual stall is a weak elec fuel pump or other fuel starve issue.

Oil pressure will drop as engine slows, normal that.

You can disconnect the output from the fuel pump and aim it into a bucket and then jumper 12v to the pump. See how much flow you have. Don't just hold preheat, hold it too long and it can burn out glow plugs.

Fuel solenoid typically either works or does not. Rare for them to drift and allow throttle lever to move. Still worth watching for that.

Ski in NC said:

Most common cause of a gradual stall is a weak elec fuel pump or other fuel starve issue.

Oil pressure will drop as engine slows, normal that.

You can disconnect the output from the fuel pump and aim it into a bucket and then jumper 12v to the pump. See how much flow you have. Don't just hold preheat, hold it too long and it can burn out glow plugs.

Fuel solenoid typically either works or does not. Rare for them to drift and allow throttle lever to move. Still worth watching for that.

Click to expand...

thanks...gotta buy you a beer (or choice) when visiting family in Wilmington at Christmas.

Jay, headed south this winter?

Sorry about a total thread hijack...I think the OP'S original issue was solved and more threads when unnecessary give me and the search function a headache....

psneeld said:

.

Jay, headed south this winter?

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No, sent you a gmail.
I "may" have a new electric fuel pump that would fit your Westerbeke. Let me look and I'll advise.

jleonard said:

No, sent you a gmail.
I "may" have a new electric fuel pump that would fit your Westerbeke. Let me look and I'll advise.

Click to expand...

Thanks! Gotta join the crowd sooner or later...

8 BTD Fuel system bleed

Priming the Fuel System (Self-Bleeding)
Directly from the manual...
The Westerbeke self-bleeding fuel system is semiautomatic in operation. The self-bleeding feature of the fuel system allows for easy servicing of the fuel filters. Simply remove and replace the filter element (take care in catching any fuel that may drain out of the fuel filtering assembly) as described in the "Replacing the Fuel Filter Element" section. Energize the PREHEAT switch and allow the electric fuel pump to operate for 20 to 30 seconds to prime and bleed air from the system. (No fittings should be opened.)
Then proceed to start the engine as you normally would. If the engine does not start, stop and wait a few moments, and then repeat the bleed procedure as indicated above. When the PREHEAT switch is depressed, the preheat elements (the glow plugs) are energized, so take care not to over heat them.

I have a Mitsu S4L2 that probably has the same glow plugs and never heat the plugs for over ten seconds. Lasted ten years and counting.