Cutlass bearings

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Lollygag

Senior Member
Joined
Jan 4, 2012
Messages
259
Location
USA
Vessel Name
Lollygag
Vessel Make
1979 42' CHB Europa
One of the jobs to get done when we haul out in May is replace the cutlass bearings. I've never replaced cutlass bearings so I'll let the yard do it and just watch this one. Still, has anyone replaced their cutlass bearings? Where do you get them, what dimensions are needed? Do I just schedule and extra day on the hard while I go find them. I think the shafts are 2" but have no clue about the diameter of the struts or how long the run is.
 
I've changed cutlass bearings using a tool called a Strut-pro, a threaded puller that presses the old bearing out and then the new one in with the prop shaft in place. The other method requires pulling the prop, disconnecting the shaft coupler and pressing the shaft out of the coupler and removing the shaft, then cutting the bearing to remove it.
If the yard has a puller they may do it that way, otherwise they will probably pull the shaft.
The bearings are standard sizes based on prop shaft size and bearing carrier size and are readily available.
Whichever method you or the yard uses it would be a good opportunity to repack with a goretex packing too.
 
I've changed cutlass bearings using a tool called a Strut-pro, a threaded puller that presses the old bearing out and then the new one in with the prop shaft in place. The other method requires pulling the prop, disconnecting the shaft coupler and pressing the shaft out of the coupler and removing the shaft, then cutting the bearing to remove it.
If the yard has a puller they may do it that way, otherwise they will probably pull the shaft.
The bearings are standard sizes based on prop shaft size and bearing carrier size and are readily available.
Whichever method you or the yard uses it would be a good opportunity to repack with a goretex packing too.

The hydraulic puller mentioned is the way to go. They can change both sides in a hour. Worth every penny!
 
Should you take it apart and find deep scoring , instead of taking out the shaft for replacement , look up Shaft Savers. These are inside out cutlas bearings and worth the O nite delivery price.


  1. Marine Bearings - ShaftSaver

    www.[B]shaftsaver[/B].com/shaftsaver.htm


    <li class="g">Welcome to the ShaftSaver™ web site. This web site tries to clearly demonstrate how our claim that you may never buy another prop shaft can be true, but ...


    <li class="g">ShaftSaver Marine Bearings

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    ShaftSaver rotary bearings reduce maintenance costs for all boat owners.


 
One of the jobs to get done when we haul out in May is replace the cutlass bearings. I've never replaced cutlass bearings so I'll let the yard do it and just watch this one. Still, has anyone replaced their cutlass bearings? Where do you get them, what dimensions are needed? Do I just schedule and extra day on the hard while I go find them. I think the shafts are 2" but have no clue about the diameter of the struts or how long the run is.

Here are a couple of links that will give you an idea of how it's done.

How To Remove a Cutlass Bearing Without Removing the Shaft

Cutlass Bearing Replacement - Part I

If you are interested in a source for bearings or renting the tool to do the replacement you can contact:
Ken at Weekend'R Products (716) 864-0012 or WeekendRProducts@aol.com
 
Don't know your exact situation, but none of the above applies to a single screw with the cutlass housing in the keel. In this case, the shaft really has to be removed (good chance to check it for straightness & other problems), and the cutlass split and pulled out or driven out from inside. Easy enough to do but not a job for the inexperienced.
 
I just had mine done. The yard wanted to put the boat in the sling to pull the shafts, about 4 hours extra labor. I pulled my props, and removed the struts myself. Sent everything to the prop shop for inspection and repair. Struts were bent, and props needed tuning up. Had the First Mate assist with the installation and saved a lot of money.
 

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Don't know your exact situation, but none of the above applies to a single screw with the cutlass housing in the keel. In this case, the shaft really has to be removed (good chance to check it for straightness & other problems), and the cutlass split and pulled out or driven out from inside. Easy enough to do but not a job for the inexperienced.

Another plus for having twin engines! :dance:
 
Don't know your exact situation, but none of the above applies to a single screw with the cutlass housing in the keel. In this case, the shaft really has to be removed (good chance to check it for straightness & other problems), and the cutlass split and pulled out or driven out from inside. Easy enough to do but not a job for the inexperienced.

I learned a trick on this. When you install the bearing into the log, leave a very small amount (about 1/4 in. for our boat) sticking out/protruding from the log. Then, when you next need to remove it, you can grab it with a large pair of large chanel locks or a pipe wrench and remove the bearing without pulling the shaft. You only need to remove the prop for the outside bearing. We replaced both bearings, the outside one near the prop, and inside one where the shaft leaves the shaft alley, without pulling the shaft. We even did the inside one without pulling the boat. :eek: But that is a whole 'nother story as they say.
 
Another plus for having twin engines! :dance:

I see no benefit.

The same time interval that cutless bearings need replacing is about the time everything should be pulled and inspected anyhow...twins just make it 2X as much work.
 

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