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Old 04-17-2015, 06:28 AM   #16
ranger58sb
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City: Annapolis
Vessel Name: Ranger
Vessel Model: 58' Sedan Bridge
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 7,088
Quote:
Originally Posted by hmason View Post
Get rid of the whole junk setup. Leave the existing discharge hose in place, purchase a Whale Gusher pump, install it under the shower tied into the existing discharge hose. Connect the power leads to the power leads from the old pump. Eliminate the float switch completely as the Whale can run dry. It can pump hair fingernails etc. with no clogging. Will eliminate all future pump/switch problems. I've done it and it was worth the effort.

How does that work? Manually start the pump prior to showering? Manually stop the pump afterwards?

Trying to understand whether this would be an option for a shower sump that also catches and "forwards" AC condensation...



Quote:
Originally Posted by timjet View Post
Next, I went to West Marine yesterday and found the replacement float switch, Rule A Matic Model 35A.

I chose to repair rather than replace the entire unit for now. If it happens again I will look at the attwood set up as a replacement.

What would have been the difference in cost, between float switch only and whole sump unit?



Quote:
Originally Posted by FF View Post
"Lot's of water goes through the shower sumps as the air conditioning condensation drains there too."

Condensed water is even cleaner than rain water (no condensation nuclei) so what is the problem with dumping it in the bilge where it can help carry off gunk?

FWIW, our forward AC condensation is also routed to the shower sump. The drain pan is rusty, so condensate is rusty, so sump box is rusty, so discharge outlet has a rusty drip line on the hull (mitigated somewhat with a small length of hose to offset drip from fiberglass)...

Wouldn't relish rust all over the bilge...


-Chris
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