To Run or Not to Run the Generator

markpierce said:

Al, there is Option Z: running the electrical cord from your generator to the genset-absent Coot while "cuddled" to FlyWright. By the way, what is the exchange rate of gasoline (powering the generator) to IPA beer? One gallon for four beers?

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That is an option as well. The conversion rate from gasoline to IPA is a complex and fluid computation...one with many variables and few restrictions. The one constant in the formula (K) is IPA. Bottom line, as long as the generator is running, ensure adequate amounts of IPA are available for the crew of the electrical host vessel. When the generator stops, so does the IPA flow. With a few exceptions, when the IPA flow stops, so does the generator.

It's a symbiotic relationship of mutual benefit. I love the idea!!

I've powered other boats while rafted to them. I carry a variety of cord adapters and always have been able to rig something up. Got them powered up and got them some ac to sleep with.

THEY certainly did not gripe about the noise!!

CPseudonym said:

It's this guys fault.

View attachment 37997

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Oooohhhhh, the latest style of the Guy Fawkes mask.

I wrote an entire post that I lost when I closed the page inadvertently.

Must be an omen, so I will only say, some people don't know what they don't know, but write about it in any case.

If nothing else, get out of the house, do a little reading, open your eyes to the world around you.

My used oil source said cleaning up motor oil makes them compatible with type A boiler fuels but not compatible with bio diesel. Sorry for the wrong statement I made earlier.

Marin said:

I have read countless engine manuals over the years. Vehicles, outboards, marine diesels, reciprocating airplane engines from Lycoming, Continental, and Pratt & Whitney. Lawn mowers, chain saws, generators.

And with the exception of the two stroke engines that instruct one to mix CLEAN 2-stroke oil into the fuel, not ONE of these manuals ever said "After you have drained the crankcase of the old, contaminated lube oil please pour it into your fuel tank so your engine can run on it and you can save a couple of bucks."

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Now that is funny.

(For Marin. Scroll to bottom.)

How To Change your oil

1. 1
   Lift your car. Use either jacks or ramps. On a flat even surface, place the parking brake on and jack your car up, bracing it with jack stands. Improper jack-placement can damage your car badly, so always refer to the owner's manual for the instructions for your specific car. It's also extremely dangerous to work under a car that's still on a jack, so make sure you brace it first.
   • If you want to use ramps to lift your car, make sure you brace the back tires with blocks. Have someone to spot as you drive up the ramps, to make sure you don't drive off the other end.
   Ad
2. 2
   Let car heat up a bit to get the oil warm. 2 or 3 minutes of idling should be sufficient to get the oil churned up a bit so it will drain more quickly. Solid particles of dirt and grime are caught in the oil and tend to settle to the bottom when the oil is cold. Letting it run ensures you're getting the crankcase cleaned out thoroughly.
   • While the car idles, assemble the necessary tools. You'll need your new oil, a new filter, a pan and newspaper to catch the draining oil, and probably a socket wrench and a flashlight. Consult your owner's manual to determine the type of oil and filter you'll need.
   • Any auto shop will also be able to tell you the kind of oil and type of filter you'll need as long as you provide them with the make and model of your car.
3. 3
   Remove the oil cap. Open the hood and locate the oil cap on top of the engine. This is where you'll add oil after you're done draining the old oil. Doing this will help the oil drain more easily because air can flow in as the crankcase empties.
4. 
   4
   Find the oil pan. Under your car, look for a flat metal pan closer to the engine than the transmission. It should have a bolt or plug toward the bottom. This is the oil plug you'll need to remove to let the oil drain. Directly under the plug, place your pan and a couple of newspapers for catching the oil.
   • If you can't distinguish the oil pan from the transmission pan, let the car run for five or ten minutes. The oil plug should get warm to the touch by that time, while the transmission won't.
5. 
   5
   Remove the oil plug. Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket or crescent wrench if you've got room to maneuver. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt) drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used if in good condition.
   • The oil will come out of the pan as soon as you do this, and it will come at a slight angle, so it can be tricky to catch. Once you've loosened the plug with your wrench, remove it the rest of the way with your hand. Make sure you've got your big catch-pan and newspapers placed before you remove the plug. Also be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find the plug in the black stuff. If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet. Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod.
   • Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to one side.
   • If you need more leverage to remove the oil plug, an extension such as a pipe segment on your ratchet handle can help. If this type of "breaker-bar" arrangement is required it was way too tight.
   • You'll probably get oil on your hands and clothes at some point during this process. Putting down newspaper is a smart precaution, or else you'll have big oil stains on your driveway or garage you'll have to clean up.
6. 
   6
   Wait. It will take several minutes for all the oil to drain out of the car. When the oil has ceasing running out of the crankcase, replace the plug. Hand tighten to make sure you're not cross-threading the oil plug when you screw it back in, and tighten the rest of the way with your wrench. Don't forget to install a replacement gasket or washer.
   • While you're poking around under the car, though, take a minute to locate the blue or white-colored cylinder that is the oil filter. You'll need to replace this next.

Part 2 of 4: Replacing the Oil Filter

1. 1
   Locate the filter assembly. Filters are not put in a standard position, so they can be on the front, back or side of engines depending on the model. Look at the replacement filter you purchased to have some idea of what to look for. Typically, they're white, blue, or black cylinders about 4–6 inches (10.2–15.2 cm) long and 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide, like a soup can.
   • Some vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes, and newer Volvos may have a filter element or cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in resevoir and lift out the filter element itself.
2. 
   2
   Unscrew the oil filter. Get a good grip and twist slow and steadily, counter-clockwise. The plastic coating and grease in the engine compartment often makes the filter somewhat slippery, but it shouldn't be more than hand-tight. Use a rag or mechanics gloves with a grip to help. A filter wrench is basically a rubber belt you grip the filter with, which you could fasten from an old belt of yours or an old alternator belt you've got laying around the garage.
   • Make sure the pan is still under the car catching the spilling oil. There will be some trapped in the filter that will come out when you unscrew it.
   • When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If it sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak. If it does stick, peel it off with your fingers or use a screwdriver to scrape off any sticky bits.
   • To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, you can wrap a plastic bag around the filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Let it sit upside down in the bag to drain as you complete the job.
3. 
   3
   Prepare the new filter. Dip the tip of your finger in the new replacement oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. This will lubricate the gasket and create a good seal for the new filter, and ensure that you'll be able to get it off the next time.
   • You can also pour a tiny amount of oil into the filter prior to installing it. This will reduce the amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically, you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If mounted at an angle then a little oil will spill just prior to spinning the filter on but that will not amount too much.
4. 
   4
   Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it, so look to the specifications on the box for more specific instructions. In general, you'll tighten the filter until the gasket touches, then a quarter-turn more.

Part 3 of 4: Adding New Oil

1. 
   1
   Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities."
   • If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling.
   • Make sure you're adding the correct oil. Typically, you can safely add 10W-30 to most cars in a pinch, but you should consult your owner's manual or the experts at an auto shop before adding oil.
   • Don't always rely on the dipstick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level surface, when it's cold and settled.
2. 
   2
   Replace the fill cap. Check around for any loose tools you might have left around and close the hood.
   • It's a good idea to wipe up any spills as best you can. While it's not dangerous to get a little oil on the crankcase as you're pouring, it may smoke as the engine heats up, leading to that burning oil smell that can be momentarily frightening. It can also make your interior smell bad.
3. 3
   Start the engine. Watch to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up. Put your car in park or neutral with the parking brake on to check for any drips and look carefully under the car to check for any leaks or drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute or so to get the pressure up and ensure you've installed everything correctly.
4. 4
   Reset the oil change light. This will differ depending upon the make and model of your car, so you should consult the owner's manual to figure out the specific set of steps. On most GM cars, for instance, you'll need to shut the car off and then turn the ignition on without turning the car over. Next, pump the gas pedal three times in ten seconds. When you start the car back up, the lights should be reset.
5. 5 After you have drained the crankcase of the old, contaminated lube oil please pour it into your fuel tank so your engine can run on it and you can save a couple of bucks.

Used oil should fuel oil-fired steam locomotives! Two-truck Shay (geared) locomotive leaving Felton, CA:

markpierce said:

Used oil should fuel oil-fired steam locomotives! Two-truck Shay (geared) locomotive leaving Felton, CA:

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Now THIS is a great idea.

http://www.x-change-r.com/oil2Fuel/oil2Fuel.shtml

Gees.......from why or why not do you run your genny to actual instructions on how to change your own oil all in the same thread....amazing!

From the relevant entries on this thread, it would seem most folks just don't mind running their gennies. This surprised me as I thought there would be more of the green wing stating running the genny will end life on earth as we know it. Yet there were some good aspects of wind and solar.

Thanks everyone for the input. Admin, please close this thread....

We don't view running the generator any differently than running the main engines. We run the mains if we want to go somewhere. We run the generator if we want AC.

They will not close a thread just because you or anybody else requests it.

If you want it closed for whatever reason, you'll need to add some politics and/or name calling. Then they may consider closing it, or, moving it to OTDE.

Nsail said:

They will not close a thread just because you or anybody else requests it.

If you want it closed for whatever reason, you'll need to add some politics and/or name calling. Then they may consider closing it, or, moving it to OTDE.

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Dang rules for everything!!!

Nsail said:

They will not close a thread just because you or anybody else requests it.

If you want it closed for whatever reason, you'll need to add some politics and/or name calling. Then they may consider closing it, or, moving it to OTDE.

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Insulting other peoples choice of anchors might work.

psneeld said:

And what should I call the sailor who illegally stayed at the 3 hr town dock in Cocoa all night (posted no overnight) and docked not near the end, more in the middle so he limited the amount of area for others to tie up?

My genset puts out less air pollution than the thousands of cars driving over the causeway just a 1/4 mile away so I am not the problem in this anchorage at least.

Respect is a wonderful thing...out of the thousands of things we do and say everyday....we all sometimes do things that others wish we didnt.

I use my genset with care and thoughtfulness.....am I gonna piss off other boaters sometimes?...you bet... but a whole lot less than many piss me off.

I still liveaboard and cruise because the alternative is worse.

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I think people tend to over emphasize generator noise. Sometimes I think people are just plain oversensitive to generator noise.

As I was walking down the dock today, one side of the fairway is slips and the other side is a transient side tie with no power.

Several of the boats tied up along the side tie were running their generators and appear to been running their generators 24 seven for sometime. The noise was not loud, it was not offensive. You could hear the splashing of water a little bit and a little rumble coming from the boats that the generator was running on.

It's very cold right now in Seward Alaska, with the wind blowing 25 kn and the temperature in the 20s, and dipping down into the teens at night. I'm running my generator, 24 seven, because it's really the only way to warm up the engine room, and it's cold enough that my 27kbtu of diesel furnaces really can't keep up.

What I'm getting at, is that we as boaters need to live and let live a little. I suppose if you were anchored 10 feet from someone else a generator might be a little noisy, but I just cannot imagine doing that and having fun boating, so I just don't see the problem with generator noise.

My brother is a diesel locomotive engineer. Now that makes noise.

The engineer or the diesel locomotive?

����

I cannot hear your generators over the sound of my Air-Breeze.

Our gasoline 7.5 Kohler gen set easily power's our completely electric boat. No noise problem; zero vibration. Matter o' fact it's a joy... no prob at all!


PS: We never run at the dock except for occasional test/warm-up after long time sitting idle. Never run her when cruising. 45 min to an hour late morning and early night... when on the hook.

Let common courtesy be your guide. Except in case of real need. Like powering the espresso machine.
Seems the closure suggestions breathed new life into the thread.

To run a generator or not is the only thing we have to argue about since they closed the anchor threads.

Seriously, multiple charging options are in my view a safety factor. Be it via solar panels, a wind genny or standard generator, all are important. IF your generator bothered me, it's MY problem, not yours. I move.

Most of the time what I hear is the water discharge and that rapidly becomes background clutter. If I had a generator I'd run it. Power is important to my happiness quotient.

Back when I had the Beast (gasoline engine) I'd take Seaweed for a spin whenever running the motor. As long as I was burning fuel, I might as well go some place. A windlass made a tremendous difference in allowing me to easily raise the anchor and go for an hour long boat ride.

That is good for my soul too.

It's more likely I'll be unimpressed with your music. Does't anybody like Dean Martin and Frank Sinatra anymore?!?!!!!

Sound does carry on the water. I've heard bits and pieces of conversations that people probably did not realize were quite so discernible. I'd much rather hear your generator or engine run than an argument with the spouse.

I don't mind running the genny when we need it, but I prefer to keep it at a minimum. We have a 3K inverter with 12 golf cart battery house bank. This will run everything on the boat for a couple of days, except AC and water heater. I would run gen a couple of hours in the morning and again in the afternoon to top off batteries, heat water, and cool down or heat up the boat, as necessary.

We added solar to our boat last year. Four 100-watt panels and two 158-watt panels. It has made a huge difference in our generator run times. I now only need to run the gen for perhaps an hour each morning. The solar panels take care powering everything the rest of the day, with enough left over charge the batteries back up to 100%. That is something I never did with the gen, as it just took too long. If we were on the hook for couple of weeks, I would need to plan on running the gen all day at least once each week to get the batts topped off completely. Now, that is not a problem.

To be honest, I like the quiet of a secluded anchorage. I don't want to listen to my 12KW Norpro, even though it is in a sound shield and very quiet. You can only hear it if directly astern of me, and not more than 50' away.

I also dislike the fuel cost of running the gen multiple hours each day. Shaving off three hours per day has saved me upwards of $300/month, and that is at today's lower fuel cost. This savings paid for my solar panel upgrade in less than six months. Now I get free electricity!

janice142 said:

IF your generator bothered me, it's MY problem, not yours. I move.

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I think this sums it up nicely. If you're going to anchor near me, it becomes your problem not mine. If you're a vegetarian, am I not supposed to cook my steak on the grill because the aroma might offend you?

Ted

Good point and agree.....

Alaskan Sea-Duction said:

So to get back on point. If you have an anti-generator bias, why? If the boat is equipped with a genny, why not use it? Most gennies I have seen are mostly quiet. Yep there are a few that are noisy but not many. So why spend all the extra money, time and space for solar/wind?

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I have never been bothered by a generator at anchor, although I rarely share a bay with another boat.

It seems there are some that do have an anti generator bias, and some that have an anti solar bias. Closed minds can be found everywhere.

As my boat came equipped with neither generator nor solar, I'm not spending extra money, time & space installing a solar charging system. It is a generator that would cost more, take up more space, and take more time to maintain if starting from scratch.
In my case it makes sense simply from a practical point of view.

O C Diver said:

I think this sums it up nicely. If you're going to anchor near me, it becomes your problem not mine. If you're a vegetarian, am I not supposed to cook my steak on the grill because the aroma might offend you?

Ted

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Also for people that want to anchor on top of me better watch out for my exhaust if they're downwind, sometimes she likes to spit a little soot.

Also, the tender has about 400 watts of speaker power if you're really close.