stabilizer

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Our ABT's were around 6k if I remember right.
 
Our Wesmars cost around $1400 with no work needed other than seals. Do it with a planned bottom job so haul out is not included
 
Depending on who does it and if it's just a simple inspect and replace the seals, under $2000.

And I think they recommend you do it sooner than ever 6 years. NAIAD is every 3 years and TRAC is every 6 as I recall.

If the owners can not prove when it was done last or if it wasn't done on schedule, they should knock something off the sale price.
 
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Just lost my lust to have stabilizers. I had no clue they were that expensive to service. I can buy a lifetime supply of Dramamine for a lot less.
 
$2000 or less over 6 years, in the case of the TRAC's, isn't much money considering the huge improvement in ride quality. And it is a job a mechanically inclined owner could learn to do themselves.
 
Once you have them, you'll never want to do with out them.
 
Well I have a different take on stabilization. Its not that I would not want to go without it its that I would not want to go anywhere where I would need it. So far for the last 50 or so years I have done a lot of boating East Coast and PNW and with some reasonable planning only run into situations where it would have been helpful less than maybe 8-10 hours. Depending on boat use patterns some boats that cross big open water would benefit but I suspect unless a boat is really a bad sea boat most other boats with reasonable planning can avoid the cost complexity and maintenance issues. As with many other complex and expensive marine equipment the owners who have sprung for the units will rarely tell others its a waste. By the way my Flair unit is a waste and that's another story.
 
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On the east coast less than 3k but there is more than just the seals replaced as in other posts I have said called Craig or Tammy in Ft Lauderdale from Stabilized Marine they are experts in Naiads.

Remember not every shop can do you justice with your service for example your stabilizer shafts need to be checked when the fins are removed I have seen some mechanics screw up a replacement seal job and caused the owners big bucks to fix the issue.
 
Well I have a different take on stabilization. Its not that I would not want to go without it its that I would not want to go anywhere where I would need it. So far for the last 50 or so years I have done a lot of boating East Coast and PNW and with some reasonable planning only run into situations where it would have been helpful less than maybe 8-10 hours. Depending on boat use patterns some boats that cross big open water would benefit but I suspect unless a boat is really a bad sea boat most other boats with reasonable planning can avoid the cost complexity and maintenance issues. As with many other complex and expensive marine equipment the owners who have sprung for the units will rarely tell others its a waste. By the way my Flair unit is a waste and that's another story.


Planing boats don't benefit from stabilizers when on plane. Last year with 7000 miles under the keel our stabilizers were awesome and I wouldn't buy another trawler without them. We use ours on the ICW when being passed by a sport fisher just as much as being hit by a beam sea in the ocean
 
It can be done as a DIY project. So a search on the Hatteras Owners Forum and member Sky Chaney did a great how to thread a few years ago.
 
I beg to differ. Our Grand Banks was a planing hull and definitely benefited when on plane.


In taLking with the stabilizer companies at the recent Miami boat show with a friend who is stabilizing his Hatteras, all of the comments from the reps no matter the manufacturer stated you cannot stabilize over the whole power range when you have a boat that will go from 0 to 20 knots.

You have to pick an area within that power range you need to have those stabilizers focus their energy on.

Given that when on plane a boat uses trim tabs to best align the boat on both planes with the conditions it is in wind, current, waves etc it makes more sense to focus the stabilizers in the range of 7.5 to 10 knots when trim tabs are of no real use.

My boat tops out at about 10 knots but it's common cruising speed is 7.5 to 8 knots and therefore the stabilizers really focus in that range to provide a stable lateral ride.

Just my observation and study.
 
And the slower you go, the larger the fin needs to be.

By the way, I didn't do mine DIY, I could get them done at a yard in NC for about 400 a side, and I as I recall I paid about that much in Baltimore as well.
 
Gwkiwi, there is one stabilizer company working with a trim tab company to expand that speed range. The trim tab company is working on high speed rams and the stabilizer company is working on the software to control them.
 
In taLking with the stabilizer companies at the recent Miami boat show with a friend who is stabilizing his Hatteras, all of the comments from the reps no matter the manufacturer stated you cannot stabilize over the whole power range when you have a boat that will go from 0 to 20 knots,,,,,.

Hello Gwkiwi,
My wife and I attended the TRAC Stabilizer course at American Bow Thruster last year. Eric Folkestad spoke about many installations, ranging from displacement boats to planing boats, as they do it all. The newer TRAC panel can be adjusted on the fly, as your speed changes. 20 kts not an issue. Perhaps constantly fiddling with the settings as you change speeds may get a bit old,,, but it's pretty cool that the facility is there.
Did you manage to catch the name of the TRAC Rep at the Miami show?
 
Your on plane speed is not the same as a SF running 30+ knots. :D

No, 20 kts.

The trade-off, as I understand it, is that to optimize for lower speed you would use larger fins to gain more lift. But at higher speeds, those larger fins mean greater drag.

To optimize for higher speed you would use smaller fins to reduce drag. Getting enough lift at speed is not an issue - the fins move very little compared to slower speeds. But at lower speed the smaller fins will reduce effectiveness.

So you can have both, but you still need to decide what tradeoffs you are going to make. I went with larger fins for effective stabilization at 6-10 kts, and accepted the greater drag at 20kts. But the impact on top speed was negligible - maybe 1/2 kt.

Re Andy's point, on boats that have a larger speed range, ABT fits a shaft speed sensor so the system knows how fast you are going, and it automatically adjusts accordingly. No tuning is required. My Nordhavn has the speed sensor too, though it's not as important to have as on a faster boat.
 

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