Brand Of Oil And Filter

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kartracer

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Location
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Vessel Name
M/V LUNASEA
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45ft Bluewater Coastal
How do you pick the brand of oil and filter you use in your engines? If the viscosity is the same does the brand matter.
 
There are rating or standards that oils are tested to. Your engine owners manual will list specifications that they require for the oil they want used in there engine. The oil container has the specifications that they meet listed on the front or the back. There are several threads where this has been discussed before. The consensus is that there is none as far as manufacturer. There are several that have very good reputations. Frequency of changing probably has more benefit than which of the better brands. If you want a specific brand, Rotella T is considered one of the better brands.

Filters are a little different. There are several manufacturers that make and then private label there products. As an example, Wix makes a good quality filter, and they private label it for Napa auto parts store. Many people choose Wix as it's a good quality filter, easily sourced at a competitive price. There seems to be a general consensus to avoid Fram filters if you search the archives.

Ted
 
I agree with what OC said and will add that people have or develop personal preference for various reasons. In my case, I like Shell Rotella and WIX filters. I stay away from "store" or no-name brands because I don't know who made it and I like to know.

Ken
 
We discussed filters a while back, someone posted a long vid of deconstructing,testing and classifying filters, see if you can search it out, when I was asking about Sakura brand. Seemed they tested ok, my engines are surviving. Baldwin are good too.
Use a reputable brand of oil, you should be ok.
 
kartracer said:
How do you pick the brand of oil and filter you use in your engines? If the viscosity is the same does the brand matter.
Click to expand...

What brand and model of diesel or gas engine are you querying? You cannot go wrong by using what the owner's manual requires. You can go wrong by asking on the Internet and non spec stuff starts getting recommended for an unknown engine.
 
kartracer said:
How do you pick the brand of oil and filter you use in your engines? If the viscosity is the same does the brand matter.
Click to expand...

For brands, we talked to the owner of the diesel shop we use immediately after getting our old boat to the PNW. We also talked to a good friend who until his recent retirement had spent his entire career in the marine diesel and generator industry. So we use Chevron Delo 400 oil and Baldwin filters.

But as long as one uses a reputable brand of oil, I don't think the brand name matters to the engine.

For the proper viscosity, we followed the recommendations in the operator's manual for the engines. For these particular engines in our climate it's 30 weight.
 
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Not to start the debate all over again :horse:

B -U -U -T

I tried to search out some of the previous threads dealing with oil and filters and was unsuccessful! (Maybe somebody else is better at that than me.) There was one lab study that compared about a dozen different oils and gave them a ranking (all more or less meet engine standards.) And with Walmart Super Tech oil beating out some of the brand names and sitting right in the middle of the ranking. . I know "You Got to Be Kidding :facepalm: !!"

So for you new members who missed all that fun, I ran across this article the other day from "Consumer Digest" which is about 4 years old and is more centered on automotive engines, but still worth the read.

http://www.consumersdigest.com/automotive/motor-oil

Now lets talk about anchors !! !!! :eek:
 
Buy an named brand oil that meets or exceeds the oil specification in the engine manual.

I have used engine oil from John Deere, Delvac, and Shell depending on which was cheapest.

For the last few years my JD dealer has had the cheapest price on oil and oil filters so they have gotten the business. The JD dealer stocks fuel and oil filters for my truck so I buy from them. I don't go cheap on filters and buy only the engine brand filters or a good brand. For my truck I have used Motorcraft, Mobil and JD oil filters.

I don't know of any way to rate fuel or oil fitlers so I stay with the engine brands or a respected filter company. Since the engine oil does have a specification it is easier to buy based on price.

Later,
Dan
 
Dan I had the same question when I bought my JD tractor, about 7 or 8 years ago. I found that there are a number of companies under contract to provide JD name branded products and it depends on your marketing area. In my area, their oil is formulated by Chevron and back East it was Northland Products in Waterloo, IA. Same goes for their filters, some are made by Fram and some by other makers. But it's all good and never had a problem with any of their products. With their name recognition, if there was a problem, you know they would correct it. :thumb:

Below is their form letter they respond with:

John Deere Plus-50 engine oil is tested to and meets and exceeds all the API service classification requirements. We also test to and meet or exceed most all engine manufactures heavy duty engine requirements.

Plus-50 is a unique formulation that is blended by several different locations. One of our primary blenders is Chevron and is the blender for your area. Plus-50 engine oil is unsurpassed in heavy duty engine applications. It excels in reducing engine deposits, engine wear, dispersing soot, and resisting oxidation (which gives you long oil life due to not thickening under high heat).

Regards,
J D POWER
 
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When you go to buy your oil, they all have MSDSs. They list all the ingredients and where they come from. They may only be online, but they are there. I found that Crappy Tire branded oil has all the same standards (API etc etc) and it comes from the same refinery as Rotella in Edmonton. Ergo Bingo, save $30. It's only in there for 200 hours and the engine, rated continuous duty at 2100 rpm only gets run to 1400 anyway. Fleetguard filters.
 
Another good reference I've seen is MOTOR OIL 101 - this one is also auto focused but basics still apply.

I have heard - and do believe - it is a good idea to stick with the same brand oil once you choose it... rationale is that the additive packages can be equally effective but different and may not be universally compatible.
We tend to leave more residual oil in pans than auto applications and mixing brands / additives each time could be a problem.
 
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Not sure mixing brands and even viscosity is that big of a deal anymore.

How many 20 something year olds out there with their 150,000 mile Hondas and Toyota and American pickups with bad oil leaks or bad consumption buy a quart at every tank fill up and dump it in?

Had a couple myself and know dozens more ....both young and old....doesn't seem to effect those engines. Maybe diesels would suffer more...but for most of our slow turning, low performance iron.....I personally doubt it.

Maybe it does affect the additives in a few cases....but rare I would bet...or it doesn't matter in the big scheme of things.
 
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Edelweiss said:
Not to start the debate all over again :horse:

B -U -U -T

I tried to search out some of the previous threads dealing with oil and filters and was unsuccessful! (Maybe somebody else is better at that than me.) There was one lab study that compared about a dozen different oils and gave them a ranking (all more or less meet engine standards.) And with Walmart Super Tech oil beating out some of the brand names and sitting right in the middle of the ranking. . I know "You Got to Be Kidding :facepalm: !!"

So for you new members who missed all that fun, I ran across this article the other day from "Consumer Digest" which is about 4 years old and is more centered on automotive engines, but still worth the read.

http://www.consumersdigest.com/automotive/motor-oil

Now lets talk about anchors !! !!! :eek:
Click to expand...

Interesting link.

I'd like to say... Anyone who chinches on costs for their choice of oils, fluids, lubricants, filters, fuels, antifreeze, etc for their engines and trany must not be able to afford the engines/trany in the first place. There is no cost in what I just mentioned as compared to unnecessary mechanical breakdown. :facepalm:
 
Thanks Everyone !!! I was always a Fram guy but now changing :thumb:
 
Only a couple of companies make the lube oil and a few the additive packages that get mixrd and sold as brand name oil.

My concern is to stick with one brand as a quart of this , a quart of that might cause a problem with the additive package.

If you are going to change brands , do it at an oil and filter change , and carry make up oil of that brand aboard.
 
Edelweiss said:
Dan I had the same question when I bought my JD tractor, about 7 or 8 years ago. I found that there are a number of companies under contract to provide JD name branded products and it depends on your marketing area. In my area, their oil is formulated by Chevron and back East it was Northland Products in Waterloo, IA. Same goes for their filters, some are made by Fram and some by other makers. But it's all good and never had a problem with any of their products. With their name recognition, if there was a problem, you know they would correct it. :thumb:
....
Click to expand...

Xsbank said:
When you go to buy your oil, they all have MSDSs. They list all the ingredients and where they come from. They may only be online, but they are there. I found that Crappy Tire branded oil has all the same standards (API etc etc) and it comes from the same refinery as Rotella in Edmonton. Ergo Bingo, save $30. It's only in there for 200 hours and the engine, rated continuous duty at 2100 rpm only gets run to 1400 anyway. Fleetguard filters.
Click to expand...

The JD oil I have been using is a 0Wx40 oil. Years ago I did some research to see, or try to see, who made the oil. The oil was made in Canada so maybe it was Shell in Edmonton?

Course JD, WallyWorld, and even some name brand oils are made at a different companies refinery. There are only so many lube oil makers in the world. The big difference in the brand is price and additive package. One of my UOA(Used Oil Analysis) on the JD oil had a 10-12 TBN after 12-14,000 miles on the engine! JD had one heck of an additive package in the oil. I pretty much threw away perfectly good oil.

Seems like a few years ago, JD was saying you could run the oil 50% longer if you used JD oil and filters in a JD engine. I just checked the JD site and it looks like they are pushing extended oil changes with their oils and filters. That is all about the additive package I am sure.

The JD 0Wx40 oil USED to be cheaper than the Shell 5Wx40 oil but last oil buy the JD was more expensive. Next oil change I will compare prices again and buy which ever brand is cheaper and if Amazon will ship to me for "free" as a Prime member. :D:D:D

I use Blackstone lab to do UOA and one thing they are adamant about is that oil is oil as long as it meets the specifications. I don't worry about switching oil brands but I usually do that at an oil change. Course you don't get all of the old oil out when changing oil so old oil is still in the engine so I am mixing oil brands but I don't think that matters at all. I don't usually add make up oil from a different brand but I have done it in the past and it did not hurt the engine.

Later,
Dan
 
200 hours a year and 'you' are fussing about oil? Somebody asked the question in the other oil thread (and all the others), can anyone on here say they have ever heard of a diesel recreational engine that died due to cheap oil? No oil, overheating, but cheap oil? Over the Course of my boat's life it has averaged about 100 hours per year, that includes it's time as a workboat.

Buy the oil with the correct specifications that the engine maker specifies. The fancy oil has a huge additive, called MARKETING.
 
dannc said:
I pretty much threw away perfectly good oil.

Seems like a few years ago, JD was saying you could run the oil 50% longer if you used JD oil and filters in a JD engine. I just checked the JD site and it looks like they are pushing extended oil changes with their oils and filters. That is all about the additive package I am sure.

Later,
Dan
Click to expand...
I used to have Lab reports done on my oil, they were all taken at oil changes and was "end of life" oil. As you say, the reports said I had thrown away good oil. I suppose that is better than a report that says you have been running on bad oil? Ha Ha The consumer reports agencies have been saying for some time now that the oil intervals stated by manufactures and automotive service industry are way too short. Which may be true, probably a mix of over caution by the manufactures and marketing by oil service industry. I finally stopped submitting oil samples, but I still follow manufactures recommendations for oil change intervals though.
 
Edelweiss said:
I used to have Lab reports done on my oil, they were all taken at oil changes and was "end of life" oil. As you say, the reports said I had thrown away good oil. I suppose that is better than a report that says you have been running on bad oil? Ha Ha The consumer reports agencies have been saying for some time now that the oil intervals stated by manufactures and automotive service industry are way too short. Which may be true, probably a mix of over caution by the manufactures and marketing by oil service industry. I finally stopped submitting oil samples, but I still follow manufactures recommendations for oil change intervals though.
Click to expand...

I "know" guy on another website that buys the cheapest oil specified for his engine and waits for Purolator filters to go on sale at Sears at which point he buys a case. :D He changes oil per the manual and is done with it. Buying oil as he does, does not bother me, but the filters makes me twitch a bit. :rofl: Certainly, he is doing his engine right the cheapest way possible.

Sometimes, I question the value of my UOA costs...

But, one of the tests a few oil changes back showed some wear metals. :eek::nonono: My stupid fault since I let the oil drop more than I should. :facepalm::facepalm::facepalm:

However, the oil sample was not horribly bad, more of a what the heck is going on and the test results have gotten better since then.

However, however, recently I noticed the engine coolant is going down. :nonono: Ruh Rah Scooby. There has never been coolant in the oil, and I did an oil change a few months ago and there was no coolant in the oil. I just added some make up oil to the engine, as is usual, and I dont think there is any coolant in the oil. I have an easy to open drain plug on the drain pan that makes changing oil or taking a sample easy to do so I think I will take a sample. The oil test site says coolant in the engine can kill said engine quick. :eek:

My guess is that the water pump is the problem since that is a known issue with this engine which is 13 years old with almost 200K miles on it. The value of the UOA is that I know there was no coolant in the oil at the last oil change, and if the next sample is negative, then the coolant is going somewhere else. I have gallons of coolant left over from coolant services so it is easy to just top off until I find the problem, unless the coolant is in the engine oil, at which point I have a bigger problem.

I figure even expensive oil is cheap to change when you do it yourself, though it does bug me to toss perfectly good oil, but I figure if I have run an extended time, I have gotten my money out of the oil. I run a better quality oil because it can take me awhile to find time to change the oil. I don't sweat, too much, if I miss my oil change time. Given what it costs to have someone else change the oil, if I do the change, I can put some of the savings into a better oil.

JD oil filters are, or were, made by Fleetguard per my deal sales guy and articles I read in the Wall Street Journal years ago. My sales guy is so good I wish I could buy cars, boat engines, and more tractors from him. :thumb: For the truck, I have used Fleetguard from International, JD, WIX, Mobile and Motorcraft. With the exception of the label they all look and feel the same. HEAVY. :rofl: The filters could be different inside but they all appear the same but since they are from good brands I think the filters have all done the job.

Later,
Dan
 
Diesel Oil Analysis Articles

Autoteacher

Great Reference - Oil FilterStudy - :thumb: One of the more complete that I have seen

I wouldn't expect or attempt to change anyone's opinion re: their choice of oil but the links below might provide some w/ facts to substantiate their choices - brands as well as conventional vs synthetic

The analysis seems detailed and complete - I can imagine different conclusions being drawn from the results based on personal perspectives...
I'd be interested in any reactions you might have to the following studies re: Diesel Oils...

Diesel Oil Lab Test & Wear Test Results - provides detail & data re: Load carrying capacity / Film Strength; Detergent / Dispersant Levels; Thermal Breakdown Temp; and Additive Levels

A series of articles in Turbo Diesel Register by a Lubrizol (Additive Co.) retiree / Expert / Consultant

TDR 55 - DEBUNKING LUBE OIL MYTHS

TDR 56 - LUBE OIL, RELIGION, SPECIFICATIONS AND THE TDR

TDR 57 - ANALYSIS OF LUBE OIL – PART TWO

TDR 76 - LUBE OILS – VERSION 2012
 
Read through the Diesel oil Lab Test, which seemed more focused on using diesel oil in performance car engines. My simple question is, does any of his testing have anything to do with engine part wear in a diesel. Frankly I have no idea what you would test for in new oil to claim one product is better or worse than another. Secondly, I would be more interested in the quality of the oil after 50 hours, 100 hours, 200 hours, etc. of use. Probably safe to assume that almost all of them are fine for the first 50 hours. Wonder if there ranking and test performance are decidedly different after 100 hours.

My Dodge pickup with a Cummins 220B now has 385,000 miles on it and still doesn't use any oil. Think I'm going to keep using the same oil regardless of his test results.

Ted
 
TDR 55 - DEBUNKING LUBE OIL MYTHS

OMG Another article praising Walmart Supertech Motor Oil :eek:

Just teasing. . . Good article. I am not surprised at all and as the article reports, modern oils meeting the same spec are very close in quality. (But I'm still not going into Walmart to buy they're oil.) I wonder if I can mail order it instead? :lol:
 
Bacchus said:
Autoteacher

Great Reference - Oil FilterStudy - :thumb: One of the more complete that I have seen
Click to expand...
Bacchus, I`d like to read it, but can`t click Oil FilterStudy. Appreciate if you could repost or reattach it.
 
What is your favored company for testing used oil and other lubrication fluids to determine condition of motor or trany... or?

Thanks, Art
 
Art said:
What is your favored company for testing used oil and other lubrication fluids to determine condition of motor or trany... or?

Thanks, Art
Click to expand...

Cat
 
FF said:
Oil does not wear out the engine , the crap IN the oil wears out the engine.

Folks that want the least engine wear might contemplate a Spinner II setup , to remove the fines in the oil a regular filter passes.
Click to expand...

FF
I agree :thumb:... in part
Particulates are only part of the wear issue -
The author of the series of TDR articles contends - and I tend to agree, especially in the marine environment "In today’s engines, corrosive wear caused by the acidic by products of combustion mixing with water vapor is much more harmful than abrasive wear. Stop-and-go driving keeps the engine oil from getting sufficiently hot to drive off acids and water vapor".

If particulates were the primary culprit we would test our oil and, if acceptable, leave in over the winter to run next season... but most of us wouldn't think of doing that. Also, some of us boaters may be frequently operating short durations or lower RPM / Temps that allow build-up of moisture & acids.

One of the key learnings for me is that the new CJ-4 oils MAY not be better than - in fact may not be as good as - the previous CI-4+ category oils for us boaters (no catalytic converters or diesel particulate filters DPF's)
My assumption was that - as in the past - a new category was an improvement from all previous ones - maybe not in this case :facepalm:

For the record - I'm not a strong proponent of any brand or type of oil - I'm here to learn - from other TF members and info, links, etc they share :peace:
 
Bacchus said:
BruceK
The opriginal link is above in #13 but here it is again
Oil Filter Study
Click to expand...

The problem with his "study" is he does not study how well a given filter filters dirty oil and for how long. Just looking at the filter construction only tells you so much, and as he says, these filters have passed the minimum filter standards.

A real study would have taken dirty oil, pushed it through the filter for some number of hours or until the filter clogged. That would be more helpful but I would suspect not so easy to do in the garage. :)

Later,
Dan
 
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